Originally Posted by Taman

No I haven't tried that - how do you know when your battery is low if the voltage cut off limiter isnt working? So it's still ok to run I take it as you have been doing it.

Originally Posted by Danny-b23

I find the V3 motors to be very heavy on low end torque compared to most motors out there, but seem to be very very smooth after the initial grunt. This is especially true when you add the new Red or Green timing boards.

This is all for blinky, by the way. Boosted, 95% of your speed comes from the ESC, so you don't need to worry about motor characteristics too much.

Originally Posted by Cain

I am looking for more torque , doing offroad and using ballistics, everyone else is running motors in the 8.5 range and can clear a jump from a dead stop. the track is carpet and very small small, so the 17.5 around the rest of the track is great, but I just need more torque.

Originally Posted by M-Technic

If it's open motor you'll save your self a headache by just going to something a little more powerful like a 13.5.

Originally Posted by ruebiracer

I´m very sad to say, that my Cirtix zero boost esc blew up a minute ago!
Never had any problem with it, a true "no worries" part!
Unfortunately for our new racing class we´re forced to switch to the LRP X12 motor, which is a mess in my eyes.
Well, I bought a used one from 2011, which should not have the actual problems (another theme).

So I tried it today on the table, motor came with the 4 dot insert.
Adjusted the esc, test the gas, everything seemed normal, with or without sensor cable, only the r.p.m. seemed to be a bit low (from the sound).
Suddenly I smeeled something burning, and my capacitor smoked up and the motor began to rev slowly without getting a signal. End of my beloved esc, probably.

Please, if you had similar problems, what could it be?
Is the sensor cable from LRP any different to SP? Also running GM motor on it and never had an issue! Sh** LRP stuff...

Help very much appreciated, as I don´t dare to connect it to my GT pro now...

Best regard,
Matthias

Originally Posted by Pattojnr

Howard, we use for boosted Stock, 17.5.
i would feel settings be similar, but gearing may change.

End bell - full retard , black (std timing board)
S411 (2.0 internal) FDR - 4.0
drag brake - 0
low voltage cut off- none
DRRS - 9
brake force - 75%
nuetral range - 6 (narrow)
AMTS timing- MAX
over heat - on
supercharger boost level - 7
RPM Delay - 5000
Full throttle delay - off
supercharger punch - -1

Temps with 17.5 were very stable and never went over 70C after 6 mins.
we ran one pack down past cutt off, and temp was maybe 76C but grip was huge, and it was about a 8 min run. we took off the dual fans and heatsink, and run one 25mm high speed fan taped to the chassis behind the motor (rear of car) and everything worked flawless. 6 min run, we can still go higher on SC punch, and SC boost level. but was no need on sunday, we proved it works.

for 13.5 you may want to try somewhere around a 4.6 FDR and see what temps are like. if its still winding out on straight, then drop to maybe 5 .
i really hope this helps you out Howard, and all the guys running SP at the TITC. Best of luck.

Originally Posted by gdcopbdcop

Was this with the 323 software, or the 528 software?

Thank you

Originally Posted by mattwoodcraft

yes this is with the 528 software

Originally Posted by zleader_99

I know this is the onroad forum but there is a lot of action here. Maybe someonce can point me in the right direction. I running a TLR 22 buggy with 2.43:1 gear box ration. I a running a 13.5 SP v3 motor. My current set up is a 27 tooth pinion and 70 tooth spur. My fdr is 6:30.. I am running blinkly software with a viper esc. What should my ration range be. I downloaded the PDF from SP site. It says 4.8 to 6 on a six cell..
Can someone help me out to what a safe range would be.

Thanks