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Old 02-22-2012, 05:46 PM   #8956
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Originally Posted by Taman View Post
No I haven't tried that - how do you know when your battery is low if the voltage cut off limiter isnt working? So it's still ok to run I take it as you have been doing it.
You may be able to set it to 3 volts, I'm not that familiar with the Cirtex. But I run mine with it off. For racing in 1/12th I never use more than 4000 MAH, for practice you have to be careful not to run the battery too low. Most new transmitters have a timer function you can set.
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Old 02-22-2012, 05:56 PM   #8957
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Thanks Lonny, appreciate the reply. I'll give that a go.
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Old 02-22-2012, 06:51 PM   #8958
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Originally Posted by Danny-b23 View Post
I find the V3 motors to be very heavy on low end torque compared to most motors out there, but seem to be very very smooth after the initial grunt. This is especially true when you add the new Red or Green timing boards.

This is all for blinky, by the way. Boosted, 95% of your speed comes from the ESC, so you don't need to worry about motor characteristics too much.
I am looking for more torque , doing offroad and using ballistics, everyone else is running motors in the 8.5 range and can clear a jump from a dead stop. the track is carpet and very small small, so the 17.5 around the rest of the track is great, but I just need more torque.
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Old 02-23-2012, 06:45 AM   #8959
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I am looking for more torque , doing offroad and using ballistics, everyone else is running motors in the 8.5 range and can clear a jump from a dead stop. the track is carpet and very small small, so the 17.5 around the rest of the track is great, but I just need more torque.
If it's open motor you'll save your self a headache by just going to something a little more powerful like a 13.5.
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:55 AM   #8960
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Im very sad to say, that my Cirtix zero boost esc blew up a minute ago!
Never had any problem with it, a true "no worries" part!
Unfortunately for our new racing class were forced to switch to the LRP X12 motor, which is a mess in my eyes.
Well, I bought a used one from 2011, which should not have the actual problems (another theme).

So I tried it today on the table, motor came with the 4 dot insert.
Adjusted the esc, test the gas, everything seemed normal, with or without sensor cable, only the r.p.m. seemed to be a bit low (from the sound).
Suddenly I smeeled something burning, and my capacitor smoked up and the motor began to rev slowly without getting a signal. End of my beloved esc, probably.

Please, if you had similar problems, what could it be?
Is the sensor cable from LRP any different to SP? Also running GM motor on it and never had an issue! Sh** LRP stuff...

Help very much appreciated, as I dont dare to connect it to my GT pro now...

Best regard,
Matthias
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Old 02-23-2012, 10:48 AM   #8961
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If it's open motor you'll save your self a headache by just going to something a little more powerful like a 13.5.
Yeah, I think I just drop in the 10.5 stators and go from there.
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:58 AM   #8962
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Originally Posted by ruebiracer View Post


Im very sad to say, that my Cirtix zero boost esc blew up a minute ago!
Never had any problem with it, a true "no worries" part!
Unfortunately for our new racing class were forced to switch to the LRP X12 motor, which is a mess in my eyes.
Well, I bought a used one from 2011, which should not have the actual problems (another theme).

So I tried it today on the table, motor came with the 4 dot insert.
Adjusted the esc, test the gas, everything seemed normal, with or without sensor cable, only the r.p.m. seemed to be a bit low (from the sound).
Suddenly I smeeled something burning, and my capacitor smoked up and the motor began to rev slowly without getting a signal. End of my beloved esc, probably.

Please, if you had similar problems, what could it be?
Is the sensor cable from LRP any different to SP? Also running GM motor on it and never had an issue! Sh** LRP stuff...

Help very much appreciated, as I dont dare to connect it to my GT pro now...

Best regard,
Matthias
If I were to guess I'd have to say that there was probably a short somewhere in windings on the motor.

And as far as it being cooked, it could just be the cap, it could be the whole ESC.

First thing I'd try is running a different motor, doesn't matter the wind as long as it's within the limit, on that ESC. Replace the cap with a new one and wire up as per usual. If that's not the ticket then next I would test the motor with a voltmeter to check the wires.

If one reads funny, the motor cooked the ESC, and it will probably continue to do so on every unit you use it with. If it reads fine, might have just been a short elsewhere, make sure when you re wire it all that everything is by itself, nothing visibly touching.
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Old 02-23-2012, 02:44 PM   #8963
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If I were to guess I'd have to say that there was probably a short somewhere in windings on the motor.

And as far as it being cooked, it could just be the cap, it could be the whole ESC.

First thing I'd try is running a different motor, doesn't matter the wind as long as it's within the limit, on that ESC. Replace the cap with a new one and wire up as per usual. If that's not the ticket then next I would test the motor with a voltmeter to check the wires.

If one reads funny, the motor cooked the ESC, and it will probably continue to do so on every unit you use it with. If it reads fine, might have just been a short elsewhere, make sure when you re wire it all that everything is by itself, nothing visibly touching.
Thanks Danny,
I will measure the windings with a voltmeter.
Meanwhile I was in contact with the guy I bought the motor from, and he said that it was a known problem with Cirtix and LRP??
For sure the cap is gone, maybe the rest survived.
I will probably give Toni Rheinhard a call tomorrow. If there is a known problem, he should know it...

Thanks so far,
Matthias
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Old 02-23-2012, 03:52 PM   #8964
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Howard, we use for boosted Stock, 17.5.
i would feel settings be similar, but gearing may change.

End bell - full retard , black (std timing board)
S411 (2.0 internal) FDR - 4.0
drag brake - 0
low voltage cut off- none
DRRS - 9
brake force - 75%
nuetral range - 6 (narrow)
AMTS timing- MAX
over heat - on
supercharger boost level - 7
RPM Delay - 5000
Full throttle delay - off
supercharger punch - -1

Temps with 17.5 were very stable and never went over 70C after 6 mins.
we ran one pack down past cutt off, and temp was maybe 76C but grip was huge, and it was about a 8 min run. we took off the dual fans and heatsink, and run one 25mm high speed fan taped to the chassis behind the motor (rear of car) and everything worked flawless. 6 min run, we can still go higher on SC punch, and SC boost level. but was no need on sunday, we proved it works.

for 13.5 you may want to try somewhere around a 4.6 FDR and see what temps are like. if its still winding out on straight, then drop to maybe 5 .
i really hope this helps you out Howard, and all the guys running SP at the TITC. Best of luck.
Was this with the 323 software, or the 528 software?

Thank you
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Old 02-23-2012, 04:51 PM   #8965
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Was this with the 323 software, or the 528 software?

Thank you
This would be with the 528. Note the "Supercharger Boost" and "Supercharger Punch" settings. These adjustments change in 323.
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Old 02-24-2012, 07:10 AM   #8966
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yes this is with the 528 software
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Old 02-24-2012, 08:38 AM   #8967
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yes this is with the 528 software
thanks guys, i will give this a shot!
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Old 02-24-2012, 02:00 PM   #8968
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Default gear 13.5 sp v3

I know this is the onroad forum but there is a lot of action here. Maybe someonce can point me in the right direction. I running a TLR 22 buggy with 2.43:1 gear box ration. I a running a 13.5 SP v3 motor. My current set up is a 27 tooth pinion and 70 tooth spur. My fdr is 6:30.. I am running blinkly software with a viper esc. What should my ration range be. I downloaded the PDF from SP site. It says 4.8 to 6 on a six cell..
Can someone help me out to what a safe range would be.

Thanks
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Old 02-25-2012, 04:59 AM   #8969
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Hi,

Can anyone tell me if it is possible to replace the 'massive' capacitor that comes with the Speed Passion GT v2.0 with something smaller in size? I have had to mount the capacitor on top of the top deck.

Stephen
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Old 02-25-2012, 05:21 AM   #8970
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Originally Posted by zleader_99 View Post
I know this is the onroad forum but there is a lot of action here. Maybe someonce can point me in the right direction. I running a TLR 22 buggy with 2.43:1 gear box ration. I a running a 13.5 SP v3 motor. My current set up is a 27 tooth pinion and 70 tooth spur. My fdr is 6:30.. I am running blinkly software with a viper esc. What should my ration range be. I downloaded the PDF from SP site. It says 4.8 to 6 on a six cell..
Can someone help me out to what a safe range would be.

Thanks
Why run blinky? Offroad motor questions can be answered here

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...on-thread.html
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