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Old 01-19-2012, 03:02 AM   #8776
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solara View Post
You can add 4* more on your Turbo Timing...or gear 1T up.
Thanks will give that a try
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Old 01-19-2012, 05:49 AM   #8777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iwkyb View Post
I am on a outdoor track with a 30m straight
TRF417
Tekin RS pro
SP MMM 13.5 - std rotor - 1 high power 30mm fan

Here are the following settings I tried

Endmotor timing 11 degrees (minimum on standard sensor)
Boost: 45
Start RPM: 5000
End RPM: 17000
Turbo delay: 0.15 sec
Turbo: 15
Turbo ramp: 2 (4 degrees/ 0.1 sec)
Current limiter: off
FDR: 7.0 - 8.2

Any ideas?
Hi,

30m is a pretty short straight, so I will focus on the settings above and try this:

End motor timing 11 degrees (minimum on standard sensor)
Boost: 40
Start RPM: 5000
End RPM: 24000
Turbo delay: 0.15 sec
Turbo: 10
Turbo ramp: 1
Current limiter: off
FDR: 7.5 - 8.X (will depend on your feel for where it tops out on the straight)

The first change is to widen the RPM range. I believe it is too narrow in your original settings, which will cause excess heat. Second is to reduce the aggressiveness of the additional turbo timing, which will help lower temps as well.

Dont worry about speed at this point, focus on getting a setup that runs 6 minutes without fade. If it is still coming off hot, reduce the boost timing by 5 degrees steps. Once you have a setup that does not fade, then begin to change the timing around to optimize speed.

Jimmy
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Old 01-19-2012, 08:03 AM   #8778
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iwkyb View Post
I am on a outdoor track with a 30m straight
TRF417
Tekin RS pro
SP MMM 13.5 - std rotor - 1 high power 30mm fan

Here are the following settings I tried

Endmotor timing 11 degrees (minimum on standard sensor)
Boost: 45
Start RPM: 5000
End RPM: 17000
Turbo delay: 0.15 sec
Turbo: 15
Turbo ramp: 2 (4 degrees/ 0.1 sec)
Current limiter: off
FDR: 7.0 - 8.2

The car faded on a 30 degree day after 3-4 minutes - the car lost punch and wouldn't accelerate on the straight. If I stopped the car and cooled it down, it would recover but would have the same issue after a little while.

The motor reads about 70-75 degrees with a temp gun once that happens. I have never got the motor pass 80 degrees (since it would have faded way before that)

I also tried

Endmotor timing 15 degrees (middle on standard sensor)
Boost: 35
Start RPM: 7000
End RPM: 18000
Turbo delay: 0.15 sec
Turbo: 15
Turbo ramp: 2 (4 degrees/ 0.1 sec)
Current limiter: off
FDR: 6 - 6.5

Same issue on a hotter day.

With both settings I am not keeping up with the other cars in the same class (by a significant margin - at least lost 0.5 sec just on the longest straight alone). When I asked the local racers in the same class (running Team Powers/LRP/Tekin), I didn't get much more of a reply than "Don't run Speedpassion".

Any ideas?
In my opinion you are undertimed and undergeared. Running a 7.5t with a Tekin RS in the past, I always ran 50 boost and 15 turbo just to keep up. It ran hot but didn't fade.


Try these settings:

Endbell timing: 15-18* (middle or slightly past)
Boost: 50
Start RPM: 9,000 (if you are lacking bottom end go to 5,000)
End RPM: about 25,000-28,000
Turbo delay: 0.15 sec
Turbo: 10
Turbo ramp: 2 (4 degrees/ 0.1 sec)
Current limiter: off
FDR: 6.0 to 7.0


Also, what batteries are you using, and how new/fresh are they?
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Old 01-19-2012, 08:31 AM   #8779
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what is the warranty on speed passion ESCs and motors in the USA?
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Old 01-19-2012, 01:30 PM   #8780
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
what is the warranty on speed passion ESCs and motors in the USA?
ESC 90 days, Motor 30 days from the purchase receipt.
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Old 01-19-2012, 04:01 PM   #8781
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Originally Posted by ercwhtsd View Post
Mike- the second one went out as well after I replaced the first one?? Wondered why you left that day, the second unit only had a couple weeks on it.
Yep, I moved the 21.5 into my now VTA Iv been trying to get together. Drove it around a bit and it just kinda made a goofy noise like the first one and quit. I double checked all the wiring for potential shorts and there was nothing I could see. Just the black burn residue on the capacitors, like they had burned up.
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Old 01-19-2012, 04:30 PM   #8782
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Double post
Whoops
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Old 01-19-2012, 04:34 PM   #8783
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Is there a way to distinguish the +10 & +20 sensor boards besides color? I have a NIP +10 part #SP000034 that is green in color. The spec sheet that came with my SP MMM says that part # is red? The sensor unit in my 17.5 mmm is red. I got the motor lightly used and it came with the NIP sensor.
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Old 01-19-2012, 06:45 PM   #8784
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What is the motor limit for 323stock on a gt2.0
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Old 01-19-2012, 07:37 PM   #8785
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M-Technic View Post
In my opinion you are undertimed and undergeared. Running a 7.5t with a Tekin RS in the past, I always ran 50 boost and 15 turbo just to keep up. It ran hot but didn't fade.


Try these settings:

Endbell timing: 15-18* (middle or slightly past)
Boost: 50
Start RPM: 9,000 (if you are lacking bottom end go to 5,000)
End RPM: about 25,000-28,000
Turbo delay: 0.15 sec
Turbo: 10
Turbo ramp: 2 (4 degrees/ 0.1 sec)
Current limiter: off
FDR: 6.0 to 7.0


Also, what batteries are you using, and how new/fresh are they?
Thanks for the advice, will give that a try before the next race

I am using IP 5800 60C batteries, they are about 3 months old (about 30 or so cycles). How long can batteries last? I only run them for 6 minutes each before cooling down (using about 2400 of charge + recharging so I would assume that they won't puff.
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Old 01-20-2012, 09:16 AM   #8786
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koopesv View Post
What is the motor limit for 323stock on a gt2.0
What version of the 2.0?

Quote:
Originally Posted by iwkyb View Post
Thanks for the advice, will give that a try before the next race

I am using IP 5800 60C batteries, they are about 3 months old (about 30 or so cycles). How long can batteries last? I only run them for 6 minutes each before cooling down (using about 2400 of charge + recharging so I would assume that they won't puff.
Your batteries are fine then, I just thought I'd ask.
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Old 01-20-2012, 01:52 PM   #8787
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwiksi View Post
Is there a way to distinguish the +10 & +20 sensor boards besides color? I have a NIP +10 part #SP000034 that is green in color. The spec sheet that came with my SP MMM says that part # is red? The sensor unit in my 17.5 mmm is red. I got the motor lightly used and it came with the NIP sensor.
If your sensor is GREEN in color...it has to be +20 sensor. RED is +10 sensor only and black is +0.

It might be the wrong package label on the sensor....if you need the RED one, please contact the office and we will take care of you.
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Old 01-20-2012, 03:51 PM   #8788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solara View Post
If your sensor is GREEN in color...it has to be +20 sensor. RED is +10 sensor only and black is +0.

It might be the wrong package label on the sensor....if you need the RED one, please contact the office and we will take care of you.
Gotcha. Thanx
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Old 01-21-2012, 05:19 AM   #8789
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Solara and M-Technic

i have a question i have been adjusting and playing with the 323 stock software after the advice given a while ago this is where im up to. the car pulls hard plenty of speed how ever it seems to still be wanting to pull hard at the end of the straight it now keeps up with the tekin and lrp

would lowering the turbo slope to 6 be worth while to try ? or would this soften the car to much

thanks
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Old 01-21-2012, 05:31 AM   #8790
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Is 323Stock the last stock firmware?
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