57LikesThe Speed Passion Thread
01-10-2012, 05:49 PM
#8716
Tech Regular
You will notice that the 6.5 and 7.5 are much easier on your "happy trigger finger". If the main straight is not too long (say 20m-30m)then you can gear and boost the 6.5 to accelerate and top speed the same as a non-boost + max can timing 4.5. I think the major difference was the 4.5 had much stronger max brakes but that was irrelevant as you should adjust for this to make sure belts aren't skipping.
01-10-2012, 05:51 PM
#8717
Tech Regular
01-10-2012, 10:32 PM
#8718
Normally i remove the rear shim , this is about 0.5mm thick then add 1 X 0.3mm on the back of the rotor and 1 x 0.3 on the front , this gives the smallest amount of play , but ehough for warming up.
It is sometimes a lottery , i have had motors take 2 or 3 shims to remove the play and others were good , I also tried adding the 0.5mm shim to the front of the rotor , but it was a bit close to the sensor board
It is sometimes a lottery , i have had motors take 2 or 3 shims to remove the play and others were good , I also tried adding the 0.5mm shim to the front of the rotor , but it was a bit close to the sensor board
01-11-2012, 12:30 AM
#8719
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
yeah we saw this with ETS , there was some cheating b#%^rds buying 100 motors and 100 speedos then picking the quickest combo !!!!!
He was found to be cheating at the last ETS and was removed from the rankings.
BUT i have dyno'd a lot of my own motors and position of the end bell makes a huge differance , the end bell can go on 3 places and i moved it round untill i got the best RPM's this made a differance of 5000 RPM on some V3 motors , Also shim the rotor towards the sensor , at higher revs the rotor will move away from the sensor and you can get missed senses on the motor , tis drops the revs down slightly.
This is the world of 0 timing / fixed gearing we are in now in Europe
He was found to be cheating at the last ETS and was removed from the rankings.
BUT i have dyno'd a lot of my own motors and position of the end bell makes a huge differance , the end bell can go on 3 places and i moved it round untill i got the best RPM's this made a differance of 5000 RPM on some V3 motors , Also shim the rotor towards the sensor , at higher revs the rotor will move away from the sensor and you can get missed senses on the motor , tis drops the revs down slightly.
This is the world of 0 timing / fixed gearing we are in now in Europe
01-11-2012, 06:37 AM
#8720
Tech Apprentice
You will notice that the 6.5 and 7.5 are much easier on your "happy trigger finger". If the main straight is not too long (say 20m-30m)then you can gear and boost the 6.5 to accelerate and top speed the same as a non-boost + max can timing 4.5. I think the major difference was the 4.5 had much stronger max brakes but that was irrelevant as you should adjust for this to make sure belts aren't skipping.
The track i race at is really small . Just have stock display so cant change boost.
What Timing on esc and Where should i be in Fdr ?
Also: Maybe i should change to Level "smooth" shouldnt this make my car esier too drive?
01-11-2012, 07:07 AM
#8721
BUT i have dyno'd a lot of my own motors and position of the end bell makes a huge differance , the end bell can go on 3 places and i moved it round untill i got the best RPM's this made a differance of 5000 RPM on some V3 motors , Also shim the rotor towards the sensor , at higher revs the rotor will move away from the sensor and you can get missed senses on the motor , tis drops the revs down slightly.
This is the world of 0 timing / fixed gearing we are in now in Europe
This is the world of 0 timing / fixed gearing we are in now in Europe
01-11-2012, 08:06 AM
#8722
Tech Regular
http://www.speedpassion.net/uploadfi...C%20RcTech.jpg
Try to be more conservative than this setup at first especially with boost acceleration,turbo delay and FDR because your track is small.
For the 4.5T, I have been running max timing on motor and zero boost/turbo on 110323. FDR was 8.07.
I always run with Level 3 DDRS in mod and do fine tuning with my radio's throttle curve. It is up to you how you want to tune the "punch"
01-11-2012, 08:18 AM
#8724
Tech Apprentice
I have been using 110323 software and v3.0 6.5T with Phil's setup. Only minor difference is turbo delay 0.2s, Boost Acc 450rpm/deg and 7.38 FDR because my track is smaller that the setup's. I also use a heatsink + fan
http://www.speedpassion.net/uploadfi...C%20RcTech.jpg
Try to be more conservative than this setup at first especially with boost acceleration,turbo delay and FDR because your track is small.
For the 4.5T, I have been running max timing on motor and zero boost/turbo on 110323. FDR was 8.07.
I always run with Level 3 DDRS in mod and do fine tuning with my radio's throttle curve. It is up to you how you want to tune the "punch"
http://www.speedpassion.net/uploadfi...C%20RcTech.jpg
Try to be more conservative than this setup at first especially with boost acceleration,turbo delay and FDR because your track is small.
For the 4.5T, I have been running max timing on motor and zero boost/turbo on 110323. FDR was 8.07.
I always run with Level 3 DDRS in mod and do fine tuning with my radio's throttle curve. It is up to you how you want to tune the "punch"
Will try the setup. But not Boost or turbo delay, cant change that because i dont have the optional programbox.
01-11-2012, 09:37 AM
#8725
01-11-2012, 09:52 AM
#8726
Tech Adept
Normally i remove the rear shim , this is about 0.5mm thick then add 1 X 0.3mm on the back of the rotor and 1 x 0.3 on the front , this gives the smallest amount of play , but ehough for warming up.
It is sometimes a lottery , i have had motors take 2 or 3 shims to remove the play and others were good , I also tried adding the 0.5mm shim to the front of the rotor , but it was a bit close to the sensor board
It is sometimes a lottery , i have had motors take 2 or 3 shims to remove the play and others were good , I also tried adding the 0.5mm shim to the front of the rotor , but it was a bit close to the sensor board
01-11-2012, 10:12 AM
#8727
01-12-2012, 01:46 PM
#8728
Normally i remove the rear shim , this is about 0.5mm thick then add 1 X 0.3mm on the back of the rotor and 1 x 0.3 on the front , this gives the smallest amount of play , but ehough for warming up.
It is sometimes a lottery , i have had motors take 2 or 3 shims to remove the play and others were good , I also tried adding the 0.5mm shim to the front of the rotor , but it was a bit close to the sensor board
It is sometimes a lottery , i have had motors take 2 or 3 shims to remove the play and others were good , I also tried adding the 0.5mm shim to the front of the rotor , but it was a bit close to the sensor board
01-12-2012, 02:00 PM
#8729
I will be looking for a 17.5 2S WGT speedo set up soon for my GT2.0pro
01-12-2012, 07:15 PM
#8730
Throttle setting problem
Hi all
Have a question regarding setting a Cirtix speedy using a Spektrum DX2S transmitter.
Set up the throttle as per instruction, all good, but when you move the throttle from the neutral point you have to move it about 4 to 5mm before the motor runs, it gets full throttle ok, I do not have this when setting it to my Sanwa MT4 transmitter.
Has any one had this problem, have tried a different speedy and still had the same problem.
Regards
Gary
Have a question regarding setting a Cirtix speedy using a Spektrum DX2S transmitter.
Set up the throttle as per instruction, all good, but when you move the throttle from the neutral point you have to move it about 4 to 5mm before the motor runs, it gets full throttle ok, I do not have this when setting it to my Sanwa MT4 transmitter.
Has any one had this problem, have tried a different speedy and still had the same problem.
Regards
Gary