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Old 12-20-2011, 03:18 PM   #8491
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Solara thanks for the info on the reventon series!!

regarding GT2 now.

I run TC with SP v3 5.5 and latest stock software 323stock
settings are
1:for/brake
2:10%
3:2.8v
4:2
5:100%
6:100%
7:0%
8:6%
9:36
10:6
11:enable
12:24
13:14000rpm
14:0.1
15:750

fdr:7.22

Track is HUGE. Lanes have 6m width, main straight is 210feet with sweeper of another 190feet ( based on google maps)
http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=...01382,0.002916

Start of race everything is fine, plenty of power everywhere. But as race proceeds power (punch especially) starts to fade. Also, doesn't feel any different if I'm half throttle or full throttle.
Motor temps are around 50-60celcious. Mah draw from battery isn't bad, like other people.
I dropped setting 3, cut-off voltage from 3.0v to 2.8, thinking that maybe at some point I ask too much from the battery and speedo goes to safe mode, no noticeable difference maybe few seconds. Didn't want to disable or reduce it further without having second opinion.

Feeling is same with any kind of battery I tried. New, 65C etc.

Any ideas?

Problem is that star
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Old 12-20-2011, 03:19 PM   #8492
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tr1kstanc3 View Post
I'd like some advice and suggestions for setting up a 1/12th scale for 13.5 boosted. Track size is 80'x36'. Motor is a Reedy Sonic 13.5. Speedo is a GT 2.1EX model. I have the usb programmer and can flash to whatever firmware is recommended.

What is a good FDR and baseline boost/turbo configuration to start with? First time trying this. Thanks in advance!
http://www.speedpassion.net/us/escsetup.asp

Check the 1/12 page and Steve Walter send me a good baseline setup on 323stock (boost) with 13.5 SP motor...you have to adjust your gearing because you are running the Sonics but I would not do it until you have that tested and try it out for several lap first.....

If you are running BOOST, 323 is the software to go...if no timing (blinky), use 508_no_timing.
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Old 12-20-2011, 03:31 PM   #8493
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Could you post a link to the new mmm 17.5 and the optional 30 degree sensor! Thanks
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Old 12-20-2011, 03:40 PM   #8494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nnick View Post
Solara thanks for the info on the reventon series!!

regarding GT2 now.

I run TC with SP v3 5.5 and latest stock software 323stock
settings are
1:for/brake
2:10%
3:2.8v
4:2
5:100%
6:100%
7:0%
8:6%
9:36
10:6
11:enable
12:24
13:14000rpm
14:0.1
15:750

fdr:7.22

Track is HUGE. Lanes have 6m width, main straight is 210feet with sweeper of another 190feet ( based on google maps)
http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=...01382,0.002916

Start of race everything is fine, plenty of power everywhere. But as race proceeds power (punch especially) starts to fade. Also, doesn't feel any different if I'm half throttle or full throttle.
Motor temps are around 50-60celcious. Mah draw from battery isn't bad, like other people.
I dropped setting 3, cut-off voltage from 3.0v to 2.8, thinking that maybe at some point I ask too much from the battery and speedo goes to safe mode, no noticeable difference maybe few seconds. Didn't want to disable or reduce it further without having second opinion.

Feeling is same with any kind of battery I tried. New, 65C etc.

Any ideas?

Problem is that star
OK...this is just me (please don't blame me to tell you to do it, you can use your own judgment and figure that out), and it is not because SP is my business and I can get LIPO for free.....(far from it.) On any racing event, especially on MOD, I don't use lipo cutoff............my theory is, I always make sure my LIPO are charged up, and I know I am not racing the car for 10 minutes or until I see the car slow down. I do racing....some are 5 minutes, some are 6 minutes...once it is done, I jumped off the driver stand and call it a race. On practice...I do 5-7 laps and check motor temp, if the car is hook up...I am done too. I hardly do a 5-6 minutes practice but if I do, I also do know my time and know when to pull off...

Having the lipo cuttoff set to zero gives me all the advantage....#1, if my car does not perform right...I know it is not my lipo. #2, I will not worry about the ESC will have a FAUST shut off for whatever reason especially when I was leading or winning...I will kill myself because of that kinda incident. That happened to me on 1 of the USVTA event when I was using a brand new ESC and I forgot to turn off the thermal and cause me a win...NEVER AGAIN.

So...I suggest, turn off the LIPO...keep an eye on your charger and make sure your LIPO is fully charged. Lipo cutoff can save your LIPO, but will cause you a race.......I don't know what is more important to you but if I didn't charge my lipo enough and I balloon the lipo, that is my mistake...but if the lipo cutoff activated by mistake and cause me a race, that is STUPID on me....by not turning that off.

Electronics DOES thing that no one can explain...so please don't ask me why I cannot get a ESC that has a error free lipo cutoff. I wish I know and if you do know the answer, please let me know...I would love to buy that technology out and put that into our ESC.

Now...your setup. I really don't see anything wrong....except, why 5.5...try 4.0T, your track is not hugh...is CRAZY HUGH.

If I have to pick something, and still using the 5.5...I would say you should try higher DRRS, like level 4 instead of 2....2 is too LAZY if you asked me, especially your track is HUGH. If there is traction, you can definitely use 3 or 4.

Now...your time delay, you need at least 0.2 sec or even 0.3 sec. 0.1 sec is too soon. Exactly like you said...you are missing the low and mid range. Your boost are up too soon that it won't let the motor's low end rpm/torque to work its way and all the timing are dump directly....it gives you all the power when you apply 1/2 throttle then the rest of the throttle the motor is already MAX out...

Try MARC winning setup with 4.0 and boost....

http://www.speedpassion.net/uploadfi...0Round%205.jpg

Give that a try and let us know what happen....I am only giving you my theory as I can only DREAM to have a track like that size. Our track right now is 1/8th of that size, 40' x 75'...boost 17.5 is MOD for us now. LOL.
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Old 12-20-2011, 03:43 PM   #8495
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Originally Posted by haywood View Post
Could you post a link to the new mmm 17.5 and the optional 30 degree sensor! Thanks
MMM 17.5 is here...

http://www.speedpassion.net/us/produ...SP000039&c=MTR


Optional 30* board is here...

http://www.speedpassion.net/us/produ...SP000029&c=OPT
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Old 12-20-2011, 03:51 PM   #8496
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Originally Posted by Solara View Post
Thanks for the support...and keep letting us know about anything you guys working on....

In Chicago, we have something called SNOW so on road outdoor is over...we are moving in for little carpet match box car racing or Off Road. So if you guys have some good setup on ESC/motor, please let me know and I can post it on our web....

As well as other friends that used or ESC and Motor around the world...I will try to post them as well.
No problem. I have been meaning to post my 5.0/5.5t boosted setup. I will try to write down my settings at the track tomorrow night and then get it sent to you so you can post it on the web site. I did do a lot of experimenting because most 323_Stock setups posted on the site were for 4.0t or 6.5/7.5t, so my setup is a bit different. I will try to post it by Thursday.
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:01 PM   #8497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nnick View Post
Solara thanks for the info on the reventon series!!

regarding GT2 now.

I run TC with SP v3 5.5 and latest stock software 323stock
Hello,

I am going to echo what Solara said about running no lipo cutoff. I never run it and have never had an issues (I always pull the car before I know the lipo is going to dump). It's just not something that you want to risk costing you a race.

Now on to the settings. Here is my input on the specifics, I copy/pasted your setup and will put notes in bold next to it:

1:for/brake fine
2:10% fine
3:2.8v disable this
4:2 should be fine, I run 2-4 for mod
5:100% fine
6:100% fine
7:0% fine
8:6% fine
9:36 fine for a 5.5t
10:6 fine, you can probably get away with 12/0.1s as well
11:enable disable this
12:24 perhaps a little high, I usually stay below 20 for turbo
13:14000rpm for a large flowing track this would work, but I use in the range of 7,000-11,000 typically
14:0.1 change to .2 or .3 for a large track
15:750 with the change to #14 and if you lower the turbo, you might lower this to 650-700
fdr:7.22 sounds about right for a large track

One thing you might want to experiment with is a little extra timing on the motor. You will need to adjust your ESC settings accordingly. But this can have a large effect on power, temps, and fade. I like to get my gearing and motor timing perfect, and then make all fine adjustments on the speedo settings.

Typically if you are showing lots of fade during a run you are probably over-timing the motor, even if the temps are OK. First thing is to adjust how quickly the timing is applied (turbo delay and boost timing accl.) and evaluate how much boost/turbo you are running. With a large track it is better to let the motor breath and wind out on the straight away, rather than adding all the boost too quickly. Your ESC setup is pretty close, which makes me think you might need to experiment with the motor timing and FDR gearing a little more.

I usually consider the batteries a big factor as well, but with a new 65C pack you shouldn't have to consider the battery.
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:11 PM   #8498
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattwoodcraft View Post
solara and M-Technic

thanks very much for your input it was a 1/8 gas nitro track once but we have since moved in.
i will put these settings in and put the other timing in as you mentioned Solara and let you guys know how it went.

very good infomation it certainly helps when you can see the settings and the track

i will let you know next time i race and test it

i look forward to the next outing
Come on Matt. Time to install a Mod motor. I have a SP 8.5 you may try, it's just sitting here doing nothing.

I'll buy you some of these to hang from the back of your Tourer
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:19 PM   #8499
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thank you for the suggestions

I usually run fully charge batteries. I say usually as I have by mistake install battery that I just run them before (I agree in that case is my fault, but expensive one )

I run 1-2 laps before and 1 after the race is over, especially if I'm not sure that I finished (lost win once because I thought I've finished).

Run time is not an issue. I can easily run 7, 730 with those settings!!

Will disable lipo cutoff and try the suggestions for next time (hopefully this year )

Our rules have no motor limit, but we have decided to run up to 4.5. With stock motor 5.5 is fast (can keep up with nitro cars on straight - loose on sweepers and turns as they run foam) so I thought no need for higher motor and run the esc safer.

Is there somewhere a guide on the settings and how they affect each other?

layout we used
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:45 PM   #8500
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Originally Posted by Boz View Post
Come on Matt. Time to install a Mod motor. I have a SP 8.5 you may try, it's just sitting here doing nothing.

I'll buy you some of these to hang from the back of your Tourer


your a good man mate maybe i will also get some for my motor bike to when i ride it to the track

have a mod motor 3.5 SP im no ready for it yet. i want to get a better understanding on all the technology first.

it would be nice if there was a explanation on each ecs setting with exactly what happens and affects i have just been playing around with it and chipping away slowly.
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:47 PM   #8501
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Originally Posted by Boz View Post
Come on Matt. Time to install a Mod motor. I have a SP 8.5 you may try, it's just sitting here doing nothing.

I'll buy you some of these to hang from the back of your Tourer
OH MATT....GAME ON, he is calling you out...what is your answer..?
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:49 PM   #8502
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Originally Posted by mattwoodcraft View Post


your a good man mate maybe i will also get some for my motor bike to when i ride it to the track

have a mod motor 3.5 SP im no ready for it yet. i want to get a better understanding on all the technology first.

it would be nice if there was a explanation on each ecs setting with exactly what happens and affects i have just been playing around with it and chipping away slowly.
Dude...all you need to do is ask.

http://www.speedpassion.net/uploadfi...il_27_2011.pdf
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:50 PM   #8503
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Hey there,

I have a 17.5R V3 1 Cell motor (sealed motor from IIC). I am racing in blinky 17.5 1/12 class and wanted more than the stock 10Deg of timing. I picked up (possibly by accident) the 20+ green sensor ring. even at the lowest timing of 20, the motor barely works. It drives like an old sensorless motor, chugging, and even at full speed it sounds very very harsh like a misfire in an old car.

The Tekin ESC I am using (in ROAR mode) shows all 3 Hall sensors reporting back.

is 20 Deg just a step too far for this motor? Should I return the sensor ring? If I put the stock 0-10 black ring back in, the motor runs fine.
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:52 PM   #8504
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NO problem....

But like I told Paulie.......if I have a track like that as my local track, I would not waste time on 17.5 boost..........I boost the crap out of my 4.5 or even 4.0 and hit 70mph instead of the "watching paint dry class" like the 17.5 with boost, LOL

Dude you are wasting that beautiful track......
i have my 3.5 and a 4.5 begging to be abused but i will when i i have a really good understanding with each individual setting on the ECS.

maybe another 6 months and it will start to click into gear its taken me almost 4 months to stop blowing motors and melting them.

then i will be attacking Patto in mod or maybe when he is lapping me there's my chance.
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Old 12-20-2011, 04:53 PM   #8505
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thanks
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