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Old 10-31-2011, 12:04 PM   #8161
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Originally Posted by sidecarphil1 View Post
Yes fella , Wanna video of it working ???

It is super and really really FAST
Let me try mine....I never know that.
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Old 11-03-2011, 01:12 PM   #8162
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Originally Posted by Solara View Post
Let me try mine....I never know that.
Recently tried my 2.1 prostock (non-EX) in my 13.5 WGT car and it also worked fine. The issue is really only the servo speed, as it is slower without my Life reciever pack. With receiver pack plugged in I still have to turn on the switch for the ESC. I have a TQ booster but haven't tried that yet.

Question is does anyone have a starting setup for WGT 13.5 boosted setup (settings and rollout)? I tried Steve Walter's setup for his 12th scale 13.5 and it seems to work fine except the motor is a bit hotter than I would like. There also seems to have some weird "push control (like in a Tekin)" after I pull on the brakes and let go. Also, whats the max temperature the motor should be at or do I just follow the rule like in 2s Touring cars and don't go over 160F or so?

Thanks for any help,

Ivan
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Old 11-04-2011, 08:14 AM   #8163
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Originally Posted by BoneCrusher View Post
Recently tried my 2.1 prostock (non-EX) in my 13.5 WGT car and it also worked fine. The issue is really only the servo speed, as it is slower without my Life reciever pack. With receiver pack plugged in I still have to turn on the switch for the ESC. I have a TQ booster but haven't tried that yet.

Question is does anyone have a starting setup for WGT 13.5 boosted setup (settings and rollout)? I tried Steve Walter's setup for his 12th scale 13.5 and it seems to work fine except the motor is a bit hotter than I would like. There also seems to have some weird "push control (like in a Tekin)" after I pull on the brakes and let go. Also, whats the max temperature the motor should be at or do I just follow the rule like in 2s Touring cars and don't go over 160F or so?

Thanks for any help,

Ivan
Thats a safe temp.
180 is the MAX you would want to ever go. even then it sarts to damage the motor
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Old 11-04-2011, 09:15 AM   #8164
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Originally Posted by BoneCrusher View Post
Recently tried my 2.1 prostock (non-EX) in my 13.5 WGT car and it also worked fine. The issue is really only the servo speed, as it is slower without my Life reciever pack. With receiver pack plugged in I still have to turn on the switch for the ESC. I have a TQ booster but haven't tried that yet.

Question is does anyone have a starting setup for WGT 13.5 boosted setup (settings and rollout)? I tried Steve Walter's setup for his 12th scale 13.5 and it seems to work fine except the motor is a bit hotter than I would like. There also seems to have some weird "push control (like in a Tekin)" after I pull on the brakes and let go. Also, whats the max temperature the motor should be at or do I just follow the rule like in 2s Touring cars and don't go over 160F or so?

Thanks for any help,

Ivan
What I have found for the 1s in 17.5 boosted 1/12 is at around 140F there is an excessive amount of "heat fade", almost 1 sec. This is with fresh tires and a 46 pinion/76 spur with 43mm rear tires.

I have had some better luck by having no more than 55deg of total timing on a duo1(middle timing hole) with the EX2.1. I also backed down the boost acc to 300 rpm. It cut the heat fade to hold consistent laptimes with minimal lap time loss of around 4 tenths over the 8 minutes, but dropped the "hot lap" time by 2 tenths.

here is what I have:
RM; fwd/brk
Drag Brake 5%
LVC off
DDRS 9
Max Brake 62.5%
Max Rev Force 25%
Initial Brake 0
Neutral Range 6%
Boost 20deg
TOT 6deg/.1second
Overheat off
Turbo Timing 20deg
Boost Start 2000
Time of Delay .1
Boost timing 300rpm
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Old 11-04-2011, 09:26 AM   #8165
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I've been having better results with turning turbo timing off and only running boost timing in 1/12th scale. The turbo normally fades out after the 2 minute mark. With using all boost timing you don't have the fade.
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Old 11-04-2011, 11:13 AM   #8166
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Default Motor Overheating in just 5 minutes of Granny Driving

I need some help from an experienced Silver Arrow V2 user.

Speed Passion asked me to send in my R8 to trade up to the Silver Arrow, since I could not get the R8 to reverse motor rotation for my reverse engine mounted T8E-buggy. My R8 combo came with an SP 2500KV motor, but when the Silver Arrow arrived, I noticed the manual specs suggested 2200KV and lower. Since my motor is a 2500, could that be causing the overheating?

I have reduced the pinion size from stock 16T to 14T, with no improvement. I'm considering a 12T or even 11T, but I will then have to use a larger spur to get close enough mesh.

My battery is a twin pack of 2cell 6Amp packs pumping 25-35C. My punch is turned down to level 1, my throttle endpoint has been lowered to 70%. What gives? Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!
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Old 11-04-2011, 11:17 AM   #8167
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Oh, and I also have lots of venting in the body, for air flow over the motor. I have no heat-sink or motor fan mounted yet, but those would not get me down from 260F to below 180F, or would they?
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Old 11-04-2011, 03:25 PM   #8168
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Originally Posted by RoyJ View Post
Oh, and I also have lots of venting in the body, for air flow over the motor. I have no heat-sink or motor fan mounted yet, but those would not get me down from 260F to below 180F, or would they?
I'd be shocked if the motor still worked after hitting 260F!
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Old 11-04-2011, 04:04 PM   #8169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M-Technic View Post
I'd be shocked if the motor still worked after hitting 260F!
Yep, I was shocked too. The 2500KV motor must be (or have been) a beast. I see now that it has apparently been replaced by the 2200KV.

The decal label on the can of my 2500 is slightly disfigured from the heat, but the motor still runs like a champ...just for only about 5 minutes. Thank God for auto-thermo shut off. The temps seem to rise some once I pull the car off the track, removing air flow. Then it cools down fine, only leaving behind a wicked odor.

Sssssomebody hep meh!
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Old 11-05-2011, 06:43 AM   #8170
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Default 17.5R

Whats the difference between the SP 17.5 v3 and the Roar Approved SP 17.5R v3?

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Old 11-05-2011, 01:08 PM   #8171
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I am trying to connect my esc to the pc but the box just says connecting and the SP software has everything grayed out..what am I missing? ps my version is

V1.07_110119 lCD
and esc is V1.10_090205MOD but it won't let me update the esc? is the sofware not supported on windows 64bit?

esc is a gt 2.1EX

my LCD Box quit working...it won't show anymore text how do I go about returning it? and what is the turn around?
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Old 11-05-2011, 03:49 PM   #8172
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How come the "multi-ESC" program box that came with my GT 2.0 Pro won't work after putting the 323 software on the speedo? Only the LCD programmer works.
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Old 11-05-2011, 10:35 PM   #8173
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Originally Posted by M-Technic View Post
How come the "multi-ESC" program box that came with my GT 2.0 Pro won't work after putting the 323 software on the speedo? Only the LCD programmer works.
as stated in teh download section of Speedpassion, the 323 stock software can only be used with the LCD programmer. the LED doesnt work with that software.
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Old 11-05-2011, 10:39 PM   #8174
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one thing i have noticed in the help files, is that the settings for the 323 stock software arent explained at all ? is there a new help file, to explain the extra settings more ? cheers.
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Old 11-06-2011, 09:39 PM   #8175
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Turned on my LPF 2.0 in my cougar today and got some smoke out of my capacitor. Im not sure if any smoke came out for the esc but its all working fine. The capacitor just smells.

This is a brand new esc. Batteries were still connected, I just turned the switch on and poof. It did stop after the 3rd time I turned it on but Im afraid something may have gone wrong. I have never seen this happen. Took my car outside to inspect it and it seems fine, and drives fine.

I ordered a new cap from SP, do you guys think I need a new esc or would replacing the cap do the trick?
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