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Old 04-07-2011, 03:02 PM   #6916
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monkey...this may sound dumb but is your lead going to the receiver plugged in the correct way? If its in backwards it will light up but not respond. I ran into this before after being in a rush and plugged the lead into my REC the wrong way. Other then this I have no idea what else it could be.
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Old 04-07-2011, 03:44 PM   #6917
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You should never consider something like this a dumb idea. We've all made that mistake at least once. I've made it a few times over the years.

Nope, it's plugged in correctly. Given that it was running perfectly, turned off and didn't function after that, I have to assume it's either a hardware or software issue in the ESC itself. Problem is I bought it from someone else, no receipt or anything. I know it's had an easy life with very little run time, but warranty is likely up.

I may ship it off to China or wherever service is handled, just to see what happens.

I'll wait for my program card to arrive first, though. Maybe there's some setting that will wake it up?

Jim
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Old 04-07-2011, 05:17 PM   #6918
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
You should never consider something like this a dumb idea. We've all made that mistake at least once. I've made it a few times over the years.

<snip>

Jim
I can say, I've never done this! But in saying that, I most likely now will in the coming months

Just curious, is the BEC outputting power to the rx ?, have you checked with a multimetre ?

Does the ESC still do the same with no motor connected ? (A,B,C & Sensor unplugged)
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Old 04-07-2011, 06:08 PM   #6919
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Mentioned this previously. Receiver is functioning normally and sending signal to ESC. Signal received at ESC. Have tried with and without sensor cable.

I'm just waiting to see if the program card I've got coming does anything at all. If not, this thing is toast at less than 30 mins. runtime and I'm buying another ESC.

Jim
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Old 04-07-2011, 11:09 PM   #6920
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It started working again, mostly. Recalibrated it with the radio for the 20th time and it recognized it and started working. Tested it with on/off cycles a bunch of times and it worked 99% of the time. Just wondering what the heck is wrong in the first place and if it's going to happen in the middle of a race.
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Old 04-08-2011, 06:21 AM   #6921
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Solara

Can the Cirtix stock adjust the width of the neutral deadband? Monkeyracing's radio might drift too much at neutral and the esc isn't arming.

Monkeyracing

Are you using an older Spektrum radio?
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Old 04-08-2011, 06:28 AM   #6922
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bad battery. bad soldering joints, having wires touching each other and having the motor not run, having a bad sensor wire, not calibrating the radio with the right radio settings. This could all be problems you were having check the board were you solder the motor wires sometimes since the wires are so close they like to touch and make the motor not want to run.
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Old 04-08-2011, 10:20 AM   #6923
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Solara

Can the Cirtix stock adjust the width of the neutral deadband? Monkeyracing's radio might drift too much at neutral and the esc isn't arming.

Monkeyracing

Are you using an older Spektrum radio?
No, the club spec does not have that option...

I have heard about case like that before on a very feel customer...99% of the time are the 3 wires that soldered onto the board of the ESC came loose or almost broken...thats why we redesign the connection and now using PLUG IN...solved the problem. (so far).
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Old 04-08-2011, 12:42 PM   #6924
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Are you using an older Spektrum radio?
Yeah. I'm using a DX 2.0 that I've modified to DX 3.0. I've got the deadband set to zero, or whatever the factory setting is.

I may end up ordering one of the new versions, if only for reliability.
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Old 04-08-2011, 03:46 PM   #6925
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Yeah. I'm using a DX 2.0 that I've modified to DX 3.0. I've got the deadband set to zero, or whatever the factory setting is.

I may end up ordering one of the new versions, if only for reliability.
Can you borrow a different radio and receiver (futaba 2.4 maybe) and just plug them in (set esc) to test? No need to install the receiver in the car but just turn the esc on and off several times and see if it will reliably work.
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Old 04-08-2011, 04:06 PM   #6926
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I'll have to try that when I go racing next.
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Old 04-09-2011, 11:12 AM   #6927
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Is there a way to figure out rough topend RPM for a motor, taking timing into account?

For instance, using 17.5T = 2200kV (ballpark) with a 1S setup, max RPM on a full battery figures to be ~9.2k, or, with an ~83mm rollout, about 26mph, which seems on the low side. That makes sense, because this doesn't add 10* endbell + ESC boost/turbo timing advance... any way of figuring this in?

All I'm really trying to get is a topend RPM, so I can use that to figure boost slope.
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Old 04-10-2011, 07:08 PM   #6928
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Hi Guys

Does the GT2.0 have a flashing led when in zero timming mode ?

Also what download has the zero timming ? ( i think that the number is 508 )

Thanks
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Old 04-10-2011, 07:12 PM   #6929
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Hi Guys

Does the GT2.0 have a flashing led when in zero timming mode ?

Also what download has the zero timming ? ( i think that the number is 508 )

Thanks
Yes, 508 no timing. And it will flash. You need the lcd programmer.
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Old 04-10-2011, 10:31 PM   #6930
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Default SC Master combo reverse question

I just got the SC Master combo with 11.5T motor. The manual shows 4 settings for Running Mode, but when I connect the program box, only 3 are available.

1. Forward/brake no reverse works fine

2. Forward w/Reverse "double tap" method does not work. Motor jumps from forward to reverse with no delay at all, seems like a good way to tear up the gearbox.

3. Forward/Reverse with brake. This one works well for forward and brake, but there is a few second delay to get into reverse or from reverse to forward.

I'd like to have reverse, but #2 is too quick and #3 is too clunky. Any ideas?

I have an Airtronics MX-Sport and did have to use REV on the throttle channel to make it work at all.
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