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Old 03-04-2011, 09:08 AM   #6646
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i dont know if my new sheet is on the site but the old one is for sure that would be a good start
i couldnt find it. i know, i am a puter-tard. could you please email it to me at noteasy3@yahoo.com? thank you, rich
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Old 03-04-2011, 01:03 PM   #6647
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I noticed today that you can update the USB programmer as well as the speed controller...

Up until now I have used a Hobbywing USB programmer to put the new software onto my GT2.1 ProStock and then changed the settings with the Speed Passion programmer that came with the speedo.

Is this correct or should I be updating the Hobbywing programmer and then using that to do my programming - and why do I need to do that?

Hope that makes sense...
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I dont understand this side of it. If i connect a Hobbywing 2in1 program box to my SP prostock will it give me the speed passion firmware options or the hobbywing options. and can the hobbywing box be updated with the speedpassion software.
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Old 03-04-2011, 02:00 PM   #6648
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Was talking to one of the guys I race with and think I understand it now...

Apparently with the Hobbywing version of the speedo firmware there have been some new setting put in that the original non-USB programmer does not have. Putting newer software on the programmer adds settings.

I don't think that SP have added anything that changes the numbers in each of the settings so there is no need to use the USB programmer for setting the speedo... yet
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Old 03-04-2011, 06:39 PM   #6649
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Default Prices?

So does anybody know the prices for the newest round of SP motors?
The Ultra Sportsman v3?? http://www.speedpassion.net/news/newsDetails.asp?n=123
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Old 03-04-2011, 07:45 PM   #6650
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Hi there,

I just recently got myself a V3 3.5R and the V2.0 GT ESC and today the wire of motor tab B came off.... I had gotten the soldering work done by an RC boffin at a shop but really my main concern is would the motor be okay after this had happen? I have the setup in my TCX with 115 spur and 40 pinion, also the motor temperature at the time the wire came lose was 71C and the ambient temp was about 25C, the battery was warm and wires slightly warm. Before anything, yep the wires are 12AWG. Any ideas??

Thanks and soz for the bad focus, only had my phone and it doesn't ever seem to get the auto focus correct.
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Old 03-04-2011, 08:12 PM   #6651
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Wil the rotor for the 1s work for the 2s stator?
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Old 03-04-2011, 08:33 PM   #6652
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Hi there,

I just recently got myself a V3 3.5R and the V2.0 GT ESC and today the wire of motor tab B came off.... I had gotten the soldering work done by an RC boffin at a shop but really my main concern is would the motor be okay after this had happen? I have the setup in my TCX with 115 spur and 40 pinion, also the motor temperature at the time the wire came lose was 71C and the ambient temp was about 25C, the battery was warm and wires slightly warm. Before anything, yep the wires are 12AWG. Any ideas??

Thanks and soz for the bad focus, only had my phone and it doesn't ever seem to get the auto focus correct.
i would be looking at bad solder joints . definately look at the battery - connector as well. basically the wire is getting hot enough to desolder itself. there is huge resistance elsewhere that could be creating the issue.
desolder and resolder all joints again, and do check the tightness of your connections from the battery. you can try to source some flux as well, when resoldering, but i had this issue once before, flux helped the issue, at the track, but i have since resoldered all my connections, and not had it happen since. also do check your final drive ratio, i wouldnt run it below 7 fdr for a 3.5 either.
i am running a 7.14 FDR with a 4t with little issues if that helps.
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Old 03-04-2011, 08:49 PM   #6653
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...there is huge resistance elsewhere that could be creating the issue.

....i wouldnt run it below 7 fdr for a 3.5 either. i am running a 7.14 FDR with a 4t with little issues if that helps.
That explains it then, well maybe coz the dude that did the soldering work for me mentioned the motor tab design would impose resistance and just then I noticed the tab B which the wire came lose off, isn't as tight a fit as the other two. But even then I'm not so sure if replacing the tab would solve the issue because it could also be the male end right? ( in the motor ) Oh and the battery connectors are fine, they're tight and it's bullet connectors. But is the batt being warm after use okay? They're ProTek 50C 5600.

Thanks for the heads up man, I've been looking for a baseline of what ratio I should be running for quite some time, I don't have enough time to the track you see so I have no idea what ratio and such other peeps are running or should be.

Thanks
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Old 03-04-2011, 10:29 PM   #6654
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That explains it then, well maybe coz the dude that did the soldering work for me mentioned the motor tab design would impose resistance and just then I noticed the tab B which the wire came lose off, isn't as tight a fit as the other two. But even then I'm not so sure if replacing the tab would solve the issue because it could also be the male end right? ( in the motor ) Oh and the battery connectors are fine, they're tight and it's bullet connectors. But is the batt being warm after use okay? They're ProTek 50C 5600.

Thanks for the heads up man, I've been looking for a baseline of what ratio I should be running for quite some time, I don't have enough time to the track you see so I have no idea what ratio and such other peeps are running or should be.

Thanks
the design of the plugs at the motor end are fine. i have no issues with them at all, infact it makes it alot easier to change your motor if need be in a hurry. im talking about the solder joints them selves. at your battery, it can effect everything. also by the spur and pinon given , i believe most of your issue is with your FDR. this will create heat regardless. try 7.5 for the 3.5T, and see if it helps your situation. but still do check all your solder joints.
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Old 03-04-2011, 11:24 PM   #6655
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Originally Posted by unknownmember View Post
Hi there,

I just recently got myself a V3 3.5R and the V2.0 GT ESC and today the wire of motor tab B came off.... I had gotten the soldering work done by an RC boffin at a shop but really my main concern is would the motor be okay after this had happen? I have the setup in my TCX with 115 spur and 40 pinion, also the motor temperature at the time the wire came lose was 71C and the ambient temp was about 25C, the battery was warm and wires slightly warm. Before anything, yep the wires are 12AWG. Any ideas??

Thanks and soz for the bad focus, only had my phone and it doesn't ever seem to get the auto focus correct.
What happen during run when it went off the B wire,
the sensor still read the rotor position/sensoreless are still sensing,
it's location, your esc you should worried about,
hope it will be fine.

try free rev only quarter throttle for more than 10 second, if you don't have
excessive heat your Mod motor should be alright.
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Old 03-05-2011, 05:30 AM   #6656
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Originally Posted by Pattojnr View Post
the design of the plugs at the motor end are fine. i have no issues with them at all, infact it makes it alot easier to change your motor if need be in a hurry. im talking about the solder joints them selves. at your battery, it can effect everything. also by the spur and pinon given , i believe most of your issue is with your FDR. this will create heat regardless. try 7.5 for the 3.5T, and see if it helps your situation. but still do check all your solder joints.
Will do man, thanks for the heads up and I know this will be off topic but how powerful of a solder iron do you recommend? I'm looking at a Dickies brand 45W 250C - 450C because I don't exactly live close to the RC place and it's kinda inconvenient having to back there all time just to have something soldered.

Thanks
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Old 03-05-2011, 05:39 AM   #6657
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What happen during run when it went off the B wire,
the sensor still read the rotor position/sensoreless are still sensing,
it's location, your esc you should worried about,
hope it will be fine.

try free rev only quarter throttle for more than 10 second, if you don't have
excessive heat your Mod motor should be alright.
I sure hope so because as far as I'm aware, the ESC has overheat protection of which is enabled and when I picked up the car I checked to see if it was flashing the green LEDs overheat but it wasn't so I'm in luck? Fingers crossed.
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Old 03-05-2011, 05:27 PM   #6658
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Wil the rotor for the 1s work for the 2s stator?
i believe from a previous post from Solara, that they focused on lowering weight for the 1S motors, so everything is lighter. i believe same dimensions , different materials. in saying that, you could use the 1S motors for TC.
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Old 03-06-2011, 03:49 AM   #6659
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i am looking at moving to speedpassion.

currently running a tekin rs in a fixed esc timing 21.5 class, but will be going to a open 17.5 class next points score

what would be the best speedpassion speedy to look at?

gt v2.1 brushless
gt 2.1 prostock
gt 2.1 lpf brushless

will be running at v3 21.5 motor

any tips would be great
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Old 03-06-2011, 04:07 AM   #6660
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Originally Posted by unknownmember View Post
Hi there,

I just recently got myself a V3 3.5R and the V2.0 GT ESC and today the wire of motor tab B came off.... I had gotten the soldering work done by an RC boffin at a shop but really my main concern is would the motor be okay after this had happen? I have the setup in my TCX with 115 spur and 40 pinion, also the motor temperature at the time the wire came lose was 71C and the ambient temp was about 25C, the battery was warm and wires slightly warm. Before anything, yep the wires are 12AWG. Any ideas??

Thanks and soz for the bad focus, only had my phone and it doesn't ever seem to get the auto focus correct.
Dude....your gearing is WAAAAY off. Gearing a 5.6 with a 3.5 will burn ANYTHING and wont be warrantied anywhere. I gear my TCX with a 5.5 at a FDR of 8.7. So i would gear that 3.5 in the 9's.

Good Luck.
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