Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
The Speed Passion Thread >

The Speed Passion Thread

Like Tree57Likes

The Speed Passion Thread

Old 10-14-2010, 10:32 PM
  #5791  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (100)
 
tha Beast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: H-Town TX
Posts: 2,167
Trader Rating: 100 (99%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Solara
Check out the LHS that made the pre-order from us last month...the current batch were all sold out, but checkout the LHS and other online dealers...

Also...I am hoping you are not going to use it on your TCX....it is not suppose to be use on 2S TC.
my LHS never has anything no im planning on running it in my pan car with 1s
tha Beast is offline  
Old 10-15-2010, 12:21 AM
  #5792  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
 
Magnet Top's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Seattle
Posts: 2,075
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Solara
Yes...please do gear down alot since you are running a small CARPET track. The one on SP site is from Jimmy Stegen and the track was a 125 x 275 1/8th on road track...hugh different in gearing.

I would guess (again, if I am the one running) using 8.2 final drive, then use Jimmy's setup...adjust your #14 to 0.1s or so and leave the rest the same as Jimmy's setup should be a good start. Temp your motor and compare your lap time and adjust gearing....

#4, #14 and #15 should be the area that you should adjust.

Let us know your finding and I can have that posted on the SPEED PASSION website.
Wow, 125x275 ! I think I was running an FDR of about 7.4, never had a chance to try different gearing but it wasn't bad. I had some friends that are knowledgable about the SP software make some adjustments. Tomorrow night I'll post the specific FDR and ESC settings as it was fairly smooth power , just maybe a little more lag than I'd like. Take a couple teeth off and that may go away. Next race isn't for a while so I won't be able to test it soon....
Magnet Top is offline  
Old 10-16-2010, 04:05 AM
  #5793  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Bournemouth.UK
Posts: 59
Default

Hi guys I need urgent help please.. Using stock 528 gt2.0 pro and v3 13.5 motor, never used 13.5 can someone please post the best gear ratio for a track with a straight of 30meters .. A rough setup for esc would also be great or do I pretty much just max drrs, stage boost and sc punch.. Motor timing on motor is on full .. Should I turn that down and increase esc timing or leave motor n just just mid on esc or shall I just run all timing full..im running the car on prima felt carpet

Many thanks in advance
Mark
mark williams is offline  
Old 10-16-2010, 04:36 AM
  #5794  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Denmark
Posts: 562
Default

Probably have been covered over and over in this thread, but there is so many pages :P

How do I change the motor-timing on a Speed Passion V3 17.5T?
Nilks is offline  
Old 10-16-2010, 10:48 PM
  #5795  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (4)
 
HUTTNER's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 68
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

You may have to take the end bell off to change the timing. The timing ring sits against a rubber seal under the motor end bell and can stick to the rubber making it difficult to move the timing ring by just loosening the motor screws.
HUTTNER is offline  
Old 10-16-2010, 11:34 PM
  #5796  
Tech Master
 
Drillit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Oreganastan Pacific Wonderland home to Indoor Farming
Posts: 1,059
Default

hey korey, time for some fancy answers
Drillit is offline  
Old 10-17-2010, 02:39 AM
  #5797  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Denmark
Posts: 562
Default

Originally Posted by HUTTNER
You may have to take the end bell off to change the timing. The timing ring sits against a rubber seal under the motor end bell and can stick to the rubber making it difficult to move the timing ring by just loosening the motor screws.
Does that mean that I should be able to just move the sensorplug, without unscrewing anything? I haven't tried that, but I thought I had to remove some screws or something.

I will try to just move it, and if it can't move, I will try your trick.
Nilks is offline  
Old 10-17-2010, 07:05 AM
  #5798  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
 
M-Technic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Palm Beach, FL
Posts: 2,562
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Nilks
Does that mean that I should be able to just move the sensorplug, without unscrewing anything? I haven't tried that, but I thought I had to remove some screws or something.

I will try to just move it, and if it can't move, I will try your trick.
You can't do it without loosening the 3 front bolts that go through the motor. Which means you have to take the motor out of the car to access those bolts.
M-Technic is offline  
Old 10-17-2010, 09:07 AM
  #5799  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Denmark
Posts: 562
Default

Originally Posted by M-Technic
You can't do it without loosening the 3 front bolts that go through the motor. Which means you have to take the motor out of the car to access those bolts.
Oh okay - thanks. I will do that.
Nilks is offline  
Old 10-17-2010, 01:40 PM
  #5800  
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
 
KELVIN KHNG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,529
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Hi Guys...
Any idea what is the difference between the Cirtix version 2 and the stock cirteix esc? I plan to get one for VTA... any recommendations?
KELVIN KHNG is offline  
Old 10-17-2010, 06:46 PM
  #5801  
trackrat3
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Originally Posted by KELVIN KHNG
Hi Guys...
Any idea what is the difference between the Cirtix version 2 and the stock cirteix esc? I plan to get one for VTA... any recommendations?
Kelvin,
You want the stock Cirtix that has the Trans Am edition logo on the box. It has been working on the 25.5 ballistic motor great for us. I know Eric at the track has some and getting more.
 
Old 10-17-2010, 07:07 PM
  #5802  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (14)
 
skypilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,656
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by HUTTNER
You may have to take the end bell off to change the timing. The timing ring sits against a rubber seal under the motor end bell and can stick to the rubber making it difficult to move the timing ring by just loosening the motor screws.
you do not need to take off the end bell, simply loosen the screws and it will move, if it doesn't move, wiggle it a little until it does.


Originally Posted by M-Technic
You can't do it without loosening the 3 front bolts that go through the motor. Which means you have to take the motor out of the car to access those bolts.
Yes you can, some rings will move without loosening the screws,


first see if you can get it to move, if not wiggle it a little with firm pressure, if it won't move, then you have to loosen the three screws.
skypilot is offline  
Old 10-17-2010, 07:10 PM
  #5803  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (14)
 
skypilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,656
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Nilks
Does that mean that I should be able to just move the sensorplug, without unscrewing anything? I haven't tried that, but I thought I had to remove some screws or something.

I will try to just move it, and if it can't move, I will try your trick.
Yes on some motors the you can simply move the sensor harness plug to the right by just trying, sometimes you have to loosen the three motor screws,

however that said, most of the time there is no reason to move it, unless you are running a zero timing spec class then moving it will give you a little extra uumpp and/or smooth the bottom end if some clogging is there.
skypilot is offline  
Old 10-17-2010, 07:31 PM
  #5804  
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
 
mr crum's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: tampa florida 813
Posts: 1,591
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by skypilot
Yes on some motors the you can simply move the sensor harness plug to the right by just trying, sometimes you have to loosen the three motor screws,

however that said, most of the time there is no reason to move it, unless you are running a zero timing spec class then moving it will give you a little extra uumpp and/or smooth the bottom end if some clogging is there.
if your are running spec class you arent aloud to use motor timing no timing means no timing
mr crum is offline  
Old 10-17-2010, 08:25 PM
  #5805  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (14)
 
skypilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,656
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

yea, ok, which motor has NO timing? even the V3 when turned down to zero still has timing. Novak when placed at zero has 30, (older ballistic, new one says 30) Lrp, hell it has the highest I think, all those fellas at the IIC running the no timing class, yea, twisted all the way up. no timing, whatever
skypilot is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.