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Old 06-30-2010, 10:23 PM   #4786
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Good job on the placing! Thanks for the update. Can't imagine driving the buggy with an 8.5. Must be a rocketship!!!!!!!!!

I'll probably load the new sw and test a bit. I'm not disappointed with the performance, although now that I have a good setup on my buggy and I can actually drive it, I'd like a bit more punch. Might just fool around with gearing...

Rob...............
LOL ! I usually use a 7.5 ! Its all in the trigger finger, gotta back off the throttle when you have to, ya know ! Other than that, car is always real smooth and consistent, easy to drive.
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Old 06-30-2010, 10:56 PM   #4787
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Team Turtle was asking for my benifit.

For what its worth my problem was that in the middle of a race all the sudden the speedo would decide to drop all the timing. It would keep going, but the boost would just shut itself off. I recalibrated the radio everytime, I even tried the 95% to 100% deal and that acctualy made the problem worse. If you held the trigger long enough the boost would eventualy kick back on (sometimes a lap or two later) and it would keep going in and out the whole race. Battery was never below 7.8v when I put it back on the charger (2s 5200 SMC 40c pack, but an older one I got used)

The only reasonable thing I could think of is that the speed controler was asking more from the battery than the battery was still capable of providing and the voltage the speedo could pull from the battery would maybe at times be less than what the speedo thought it should be. I turned the Lipo Cut-off to the off setting and havn't had an issue since so I imagine that thats exactly what is happening. I dont like running without lipo cut-off because sometimes I like to stay out and play after the races are over for 15 minuetes or more at a time (which the battery will do without droping below the lipo safe voltage) but I suppose I'd rather stay out 8 minuetes and let the speedo run properly than have extra play time and feel better about not damaging my battery.

Just though I would share, I figure I cant be the only person having this issue.
I prolly need to try the SP again. I'm running mod now so I guess it doesn't matter but I'm the "friend" skypilot mention. I was having the EXACT same issues; 2 weekends in a row. That was an interesting find...curious though, what radio do you use?
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Old 07-01-2010, 12:36 AM   #4788
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I prolly need to try the SP again. I'm running mod now so I guess it doesn't matter but I'm the "friend" skypilot mention. I was having the EXACT same issues; 2 weekends in a row. That was an interesting find...curious though, what radio do you use?
Possibly replacing the battery plugs may well fix the problem. If there is a bad connection then under load you will get this issue.

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Old 07-01-2010, 01:10 AM   #4789
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Possibly replacing the battery plugs may well fix the problem. If there is a bad connection then under load you will get this issue.

Mike
That's wasn't it at all, thanks.
I changed RX's, motors, 2 different SP esc's, even radios.... to no avail

So I just switched first to my trusty LRP Sphere TC SPEC. Not even a hint of that issue. And this is all while using the lipo (I only have one). Car was fine all race day. Took the old skool LRP out and now I have an ORCA Vritra in, and still no issues (same lipo). I was hoping there wasn't a compatibility issue between my KO Propo EURUS and SP esc's....I guess now I will never know.
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Old 07-01-2010, 03:00 AM   #4790
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I know this has probably been asked before but I couldn't find anything on it. I installed 422 on a LPF and it will work fine sometimes and sometimes it will only run about 1/3 throttle no SC or timing at all. I have flashed the ESC several times and it will still do it. Turn off the power and turn it back on and it's fine. It mat only do it once a day and sometimes not at all. My other LPF has been fine no issues what so ever.
You speedo turns to sensorless.This is very common on HW/SP speedos. Change the sensor wire and reduce the ATMS and you'll be fine.
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Old 07-01-2010, 03:29 AM   #4791
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You speedo turns to sensorless.This is very common on HW/SP speedos. Change the sensor wire and reduce the ATMS and you'll be fine.
It's not the sensor wire it happened to 3 of us in 3 different cars. The timing was on 22.25*. My TC only did it once and it happened after coming down the straight and entering the infield. You can turn the car off and back on again and it is fine til the next time it does it. Also I was running the starting setup for 13.5 with the punch level on 5 instead of 2 because of traction conditions. Motor temps were fine at only 160 to 170.
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Old 07-01-2010, 04:30 AM   #4792
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It's not the sensor wire it happened to 3 of us in 3 different cars. The timing was on 22.25*. My TC only did it once and it happened after coming down the straight and entering the infield. You can turn the car off and back on again and it is fine til the next time it does it. Also I was running the starting setup for 13.5 with the punch level on 5 instead of 2 because of traction conditions. Motor temps were fine at only 160 to 170.
As i said: reduce timing.Why don't you give a try?
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Old 07-01-2010, 07:29 AM   #4793
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Before you all rule out the sensor wire and I know you changed it etc...

2 things... Did you swap motors, the sensor board in the motor can be jacked which will cause the motor to run but in sensorless mode, or I have also found out some sensor wires do not seat all the way without a little coaxing on the esc. Went round and round with a couple of these esc's and both times it was the sensor wire was plugged in but not 100%. So I now take a ball end wrench and really seat the wire, and no issues since.

Good Luck, it may not be the end all fix but it may help.
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Old 07-01-2010, 05:35 PM   #4794
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Before you all rule out the sensor wire and I know you changed it etc...

2 things... Did you swap motors, the sensor board in the motor can be jacked which will cause the motor to run but in sensorless mode, or I have also found out some sensor wires do not seat all the way without a little coaxing on the esc. Went round and round with a couple of these esc's and both times it was the sensor wire was plugged in but not 100%. So I now take a ball end wrench and really seat the wire, and no issues since.

Good Luck, it may not be the end all fix but it may help.
Could be it but in 3 different cars with three different motors. Only thing in common is the esc brand. One has a 2.0 pro one has a 2.0 lpf and the other a 2.1. I was having problems with a racers esc doing it and I told him mone has never done it then in a practice session it did it. Never did it the rest of the day.
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Old 07-01-2010, 05:44 PM   #4795
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Team Turtle....lets see I can help.

If you are running Speed Passion V3 motor, the problem was...while racing or practice, the car will go to sensorless mode, the speed of the car will be reduced to like 1/4 of throttle and has no power, right...?

Try this....open up the end cap, take out he sensor board and just clean it up. Then reseat the board but make sure the sensor board is rotated to the 10* timing position. Then rebuild the motor back, connect all the sensor cable, connections and give that a try...

Since you are running 10* timing on the motor now...gear it down and tune down the boost a little JUST for the safe side.

Run that couple times and see there are any problem afterall. Hope this will help,....
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Old 07-01-2010, 08:42 PM   #4796
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Originally Posted by Team Turtle View Post
It's not the sensor wire it happened to 3 of us in 3 different cars. The timing was on 22.25*. My TC only did it once and it happened after coming down the straight and entering the infield. You can turn the car off and back on again and it is fine til the next time it does it. Also I was running the starting setup for 13.5 with the punch level on 5 instead of 2 because of traction conditions. Motor temps were fine at only 160 to 170.
This is interesting. A friend runs a 4wd SC Truck. He was having a similar condition. What it turned out to be for him was a severe power draw because of the motor and digital servo he is using.

I've heard some servos can draw more power than the BEC can supply causing that type of symptom.

May not be the case with you, but could be a consideration? Sounds like you've tried everything else.

Rob.......
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Old 07-02-2010, 03:00 AM   #4797
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Originally Posted by Team Turtle View Post
It's not the sensor wire it happened to 3 of us in 3 different cars. The timing was on 22.25*. My TC only did it once and it happened after coming down the straight and entering the infield. You can turn the car off and back on again and it is fine til the next time it does it. Also I was running the starting setup for 13.5 with the punch level on 5 instead of 2 because of traction conditions. Motor temps were fine at only 160 to 170.
Hi Guys im having a similar thing happen, im running a 7.5Lrp in my 416we with a SP 2.0Lpf with the new MOD 528 firmware, half way thru the run it looses power and seems to be running sensorless, with out touching any wires and simply switch it off and back on again all is well, until it happens again of course

i was thinking a little while back with the stock software (318 . . . etc) we had to load it twice so last night I loaded it again and going to give it a run again today, if that does not work I will try disable the low voltage cutt off as it might just be a bug in the software but it would be nice if someone has a reason or solid answer to this prob
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Old 07-02-2010, 03:51 AM   #4798
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I was suffering all the same problems as you lot with the car going to sensorless half way through the run.

What we have done to change it....

If running a KO radio turn ur throttle and brake endpoints to 150 and most importantly get a bigger cap. Im now running a super cap by TOP and had no problems at all.
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Old 07-02-2010, 07:14 AM   #4799
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The Competition V3.0 (9.5T-21.5T) Rotor - 12.5mm. Is this a replacement rotor for the SP Competition V3 17.5 motor, or a slightly larger diamater rotor. If so, what diameter rotor comes standard with the V3 17.5 motor?

thanks.
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Old 07-02-2010, 02:38 PM   #4800
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The Competition V3.0 (9.5T-21.5T) Rotor - 12.5mm. Is this a replacement rotor for the SP Competition V3 17.5 motor, or a slightly larger diamater rotor. If so, what diameter rotor comes standard with the V3 17.5 motor?

thanks.
No....is this one. V3.0 9.5T-21.5T Rotor, Purple Ring 12.3MM, Super 7, High Power type, Standard type for 10.5, 13.5, 17.5 and 21.5T Version 3.0 motor.

http://www.speedpassion.net/us/productDetails.asp?p=91
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