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Old 04-10-2009, 08:35 PM   #31
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the box comes with it.
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Old 04-10-2009, 10:21 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by dbmartin View Post
Looks Like I am gonna get the new 2.0 Gt speedo, Do I ned to get the box to program it? Are these in stock down in tampa?
If you wish to access the software updates you will need the BL analyzer or the LCD programmer however. On that note I will mention that the 2 LPF's I received yesterday both had the latest version of the software installed already, so unless you're wanting to retro-quip your esc's there's no need for anything other than what comes in the box at the moment.
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Old 04-11-2009, 01:19 AM   #33
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i notice GT2 have more high drag brake .. im using setting

2. no 3
5. no 4
7. no 1

what best setting in mod class ..
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Old 04-11-2009, 03:31 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
If you wish to access the software updates you will need the BL analyzer or the LCD programmer however. On that note I will mention that the 2 LPF's I received yesterday both had the latest version of the software installed already, so unless you're wanting to retro-quip your esc's there's no need for anything other than what comes in the box at the moment.
Cool, Thanks a bunch!
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Old 04-12-2009, 05:06 AM   #35
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i notice GT2 have more high drag brake .. im using setting

2. no 3
5. no 4
7. no 1

what best setting in mod class ..
Personally I never run drag brake.... It just makes everything hotter...

I run MAX timming and DRRS 8 on both 10.5 and mod. Correct gearing and throttle use keep heat in check (kinda). I use a lot of brakes so run around 85C on 10.5 and mod varies between 65-90C. Motors never fail so far and have had mod over 100C in practice.
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Old 04-12-2009, 06:58 AM   #36
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Well, ended up nuking my motor.. the 13.5 Ultrasportsman..

Think I shimmed too closely, and some crap got in and bound up the rotor. I think it ended up 130C by the end of 5 mins..

Funny thing is that it's still crazy strong, and I'm still planning to run it.

Came back to find the thread to confirm proper rollout and settings..

I have my TC Spec on profile 4, the middle.. your general info thread suggests I should just max it out for the most timing?

With that said, what kind of rollout should I be set at? Once in a while I run Carpet (Fastcats) but I'll be more outdoors now that the weather's nice. Parking lot tracks for TCS.

Thanks,
James
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Old 04-13-2009, 01:36 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by Dragonfire View Post
Personally I never run drag brake.... It just makes everything hotter...

I run MAX timming and DRRS 8 on both 10.5 and mod. Correct gearing and throttle use keep heat in check (kinda). I use a lot of brakes so run around 85C on 10.5 and mod varies between 65-90C. Motors never fail so far and have had mod over 100C in practice.
o.k thank dragonfire ... so i will disable all drag brake .. will be test in next run ..

how come feel on drrs 8 ? im not try yet ..
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Old 04-13-2009, 08:23 AM   #38
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In my opinion, SMC and Shumacher/Speed Passion provide the most responsible and genuine support for their products. They have the right attitutes that can help grow the RC industry in general. I hope more companies (especially the larger ones) would treat their customers like they do. It is a shame that RCtech decided to close their thread.
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Old 04-13-2009, 11:32 AM   #39
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My 10.5 seems to lack the punch end top end my Novak has can anyone help?
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Old 04-13-2009, 12:21 PM   #40
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hey guys just got the gt lpf 2.0 was running 1.1 in my 008 xray foam car I'm trying to find out my gear ratio for 13.5 foam .i heard that you need to take teeth away on the new speedo so this is what i was what i had in the car 98/38 on 56.9 tires . also what settings works best on the speedo and what timing on the motor. the motor is 13.5 duo thanks for any help you can give
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Old 04-13-2009, 12:45 PM   #41
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Hi Russ:
Start with 98/34 and the timing advance maxxed out.

If you didn't run the timing maxxed in your 1.1, then take away another tooth per advance setting you are going up.

Keep your eye on motor temps every minute or so for the first few runs. If you follow the above, you'll be within a few teeth either way. (too hot - lose another tooth or two, or not quite fast enough add a tooth or two).

Hi Tim:
What ESC are you running?

billythekid:
Thanks for the kind words!

Jam:
Yes, max it out and then drop a couple teeth from where you had it before - again, keep a close eye on temps at first.

All:
1s lipo use is not officially "OK" just yet. We're still completing some testing that started a few months back. Do so at your own risk - at this point failures can't be covered under warranty.

Luic:
Max out the timing advance and punch if you have that option on the ESC, and then either gear for the speed you need, or a max of about 175F or so.
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Old 04-13-2009, 01:25 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tim fry View Post
My 10.5 seems to lack the punch end top end my Novak has can anyone help?
Hey Tim the sp 10.5 will need a bit more pinion then the novak to feel comparable, it is a more tork based motor. Try gearing it up a few teeth but watch the temp, also the sp motors run well with a lot of esc timing.
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Old 04-13-2009, 01:44 PM   #43
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thanks Shawn for the help!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 04-13-2009, 01:47 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by Mike Haynes View Post
Hey Tim the sp 10.5 will need a bit more pinion then the novak to feel comparable, it is a more tork based motor. Try gearing it up a few teeth but watch the temp, also the sp motors run well with a lot of esc timing.
Thanks Mike.

To answer Shawn's question its an LRP TC

Thanks
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Old 04-13-2009, 03:16 PM   #45
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Tim:
Yes, you'll need to be geared up a few teeth from where you had the Novak.
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