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Old 03-09-2010, 10:05 AM   #2941
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cain the 110 is smoother but not so much less punchy and big plus is it runs cooler.
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Old 03-09-2010, 10:50 AM   #2942
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thanks for the info.

With temps in the low 40s for the race, definitely should be beneficial.

I now have a laptop so I can also switch firmware and see what I like better.
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Old 03-09-2010, 11:46 AM   #2943
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Hello! Where Speed Passion GT PRO 2.0 BLUE in stock now?? Cant find it anywhere Help me please
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Old 03-09-2010, 12:23 PM   #2944
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F-1:
This is probably closest to you in Russia:
http://www.rc-connect.nl/home/index....mart&Itemid=50
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Old 03-09-2010, 12:56 PM   #2945
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Default Speed Passion GT2.1 ProStock

Hello, Shawn

about the Speed Passion GT2.1 ProStock

is this the Pro or the Lpf Version on previous GT2.0 ?
i could not get the Spec, only The Windings/Turn ?
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Old 03-09-2010, 01:00 PM   #2946
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In Speed Passion terms, this is a "pro" capability model, not a motor limited "Lpf" model.

You can still use it for mod racing, BUT - you have to remove the "stock motor" software and install "mod" software, or it will burn up your mod motors right out of the box.
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Old 03-09-2010, 01:05 PM   #2947
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I'm curious what makes the prostock version different from the PRO, is it just the new, as yet, unreleased 'supercharger' software on a PRO?

What incentive is there to get a prostock if I already have a PRO?

Thanks

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Old 03-09-2010, 01:19 PM   #2948
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There are some slight differences in the hardware that help optimize the "supercharger" software functions, but the main difference is the all alloy integrated heat sink case, which allows for better cooling, and also lowers the overall height to make a better fit for 12th scale.

I don't see much reason to ditch your 2.0 and grab a 2.1, unless you've just got to have that cool case and shorter height.
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Old 03-09-2010, 01:22 PM   #2949
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A few questions on the V3.0 motor....

The setup sheet i am using made by a club pro says to use 10deg of timing, should I run 0deg of timing for the first run?

To change timing what do i actualy twist? the end cap or the black piece inside?
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Old 03-09-2010, 01:30 PM   #2950
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Hi Kirby,
What motor wind are you running, and what speedo?

Generally it's best to let the speedo do all the timing, and only advance the motor if you need more than the speedo can provide.

Best rule for timing and different motor winds:
The higher the wind (21.5, 17.5) the higher the timing they can handle
The lower the wind (3.5, 4.5) the lower the timing they can handle.

On the V3 motors, the sensor unit is pressed in place by a silicone gasket. If you loosen the three main motor screws, it releases the pressure and you can rotate the plastic sensor socket within the rear endbell housing. Then tighten the main screws back, and done.
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Old 03-09-2010, 02:10 PM   #2951
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irgo View Post
For me Shawn Palmer Answer is Good enough for me, and thanks'


MrTyson,
And This kind of your Respond that we are looking for.
Your Suggested Case and Solution is about to try right now is Under Investigation.
Hey Irgo,

Did this work?

Alex
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Old 03-09-2010, 02:14 PM   #2952
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawn Palmer View Post
Hi Kirby,
What motor wind are you running, and what speedo?

Generally it's best to let the speedo do all the timing, and only advance the motor if you need more than the speedo can provide.

Best rule for timing and different motor winds:
The higher the wind (21.5, 17.5) the higher the timing they can handle
The lower the wind (3.5, 4.5) the lower the timing they can handle.

On the V3 motors, the sensor unit is pressed in place by a silicone gasket. If you loosen the three main motor screws, it releases the pressure and you can rotate the plastic sensor socket within the rear endbell housing. Then tighten the main screws back, and done.
10.5 motor and Nosram Matrix Spec Racing ( LRP SPX Stock Spec )

I am using the same speedo, motor and battery as shown on the setup sheets and he has tested 0deg timing and 10deg was better.

I cant really move the sensor socket because of the connectors, if i do it past the connector on the right and then put the end cap on more to the right is this correct? would this be 10deg?

Should I run 0deg on the first run just to give it a cooler first run?
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Old 03-09-2010, 02:31 PM   #2953
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Me_MrTyson View Post
Hey Irgo,
Did this work?
Alex
No, powering up the LCD did not make the "Software" Tab Appear.
But it's work for reducing Failed Communication.

but There is another way, that we are still investigating , Soon The result will be reported.
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Old 03-09-2010, 03:08 PM   #2954
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Hi Kirby,

The rear end cap doesn't move, and doesn't need to be removed - it is only the sensor wire socket that can rotate back and forth within a cutout of the rear end cap when the motor screws are loosened. The cutout is labeled "odeg" on one side, and "+10deg" on the other.
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Old 03-09-2010, 04:00 PM   #2955
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so i should not run my 5.5 with my gt2 without changing the software ? and what one do u recommend for it , use it on dirt oval. 100 ft run line.
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