Originally Posted by Drillit
To all those who are trying to help with the 12th scale 1s "stuttering" issue.......this IS normal when YOU hold it in your hand and free rev the chassis!!!!!!!
This setup (pin spur diff axle) really likes to Bark and Growl when tested like that
Put The Car On The Track to do the testing
Cain, if you have read all of TryHards posts, Ed has had "success" (?) with the 107 and 110 using 4 cell nimh, I on the other hand run 1s and have NOT been able to get it to perform at all
I mean it works, just no initial punch, running 17.5 v3 and 13.5 v3 . I had to dig up the old 312 to make it work!
I have hope that SP will be a 'player' in the 1s game in the future.
Thank for the info and everyone else who helped. What are the settings you are running on the 312 software when you use the V3.0 17.5 , as well as what your settings are on the motor? Do you change any of the sensor spacing? (the distance of the rotor to the sensor, mine has 3 shims I believe on the sensor side)
Originally I was going to run the 323, but someone a the track had internet and let me load up whatever software I wanted after downloading it.
So, I went with the 107 after talking to others who said that the high end shuddering / whirring occuring was normal. It was actually happening when the motor sort of kicked in to the next gear it seemed, assuming this is because of the software.
Anyway, with that sorted I went ahead and ran the vehicle, and here is what I found throughout the night that I hope someone can help with:
- Associated RC12r5.1 set to stock configuration
- Magenta tires all around ( I think they are Jacos)
- 76T Spur
- SMC 25C 4000mah 1S Lipo
- Spektrum SR3500 Receiver
- AMBrc Transponder
- Futaba S9602? servo
- TQ Booster (white shrinkwrap version)
- Speed Passion GT2.0 LPF or Pro (tried both)
- Speed Passion V3.0 17.5 motor
I had the issue of basically the vehicle going into "coast" mode as I would describe it. when driving the vehicle, and it happened often on start up, it would just go to about 60% throttle or so and just hang out there. One whole race it did this for the entire race. the next one when it did it, I would "crash", and that would kick it over to be able to really go to full throttle. I tried a variety of different things:
- With and without (no receiver pack) booster (ESC runs fine with no booster as well as electronics)
- Different speed control (changed from GT2.0 LPF to GT2.0Pro)
- Different battery (SMC 25C to an SMC CMax)
When I ran the ESC with boost, I made sure and left the ESC off and switched the booster on. When I ran the ESC only, I turned the booster off, and turned the ESC on. (everything still hooked up)
Also tried retarding the timing on the motor, as well as changing settings on the ESC as far as timing goes and punch. Still had the problem.
Any ideas? It wasn't a brown out like what I saw the Tekin driver using the Novak booster was getting as I could get this "coast" effect with the TQ Booster as well as without it, and the car basically didn't just "die" in a way like his was. it would just go into this "coast" mode. Almost like when real cars go into 3rd gear when something is wrong in the other ones. when it was working, it had some punch and definitely had good speed.
Really need help here as other than myself, no one else runs the speed passions indoors at the track I go to, it pretty much a Tekin show, and I think maybe some LRPs thrown in too.
As a side note, I lent another driver the 17.5 ultra Shawn sent me awhile back, and he liked it enough that he wanted to hang on to it for a bit more.