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Old 02-03-2010, 11:51 AM   #2116
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Old 02-03-2010, 12:16 PM   #2117
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pm Adam and i am sure he can help you out.
I will message him, Thanks!
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Old 02-03-2010, 12:22 PM   #2118
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I will message him, Thanks!
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I already have the email you sent to Shawn, I'm trying to come up with one for you
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Old 02-03-2010, 01:08 PM   #2119
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Originally Posted by Rocking Donkey View Post
Sorry if I caused any offence. Actually I am nothing to do with Hobbywing. I have a Speed Passion GT2.0 LPF. I bought it because I thought it was the best value ESC around, and I like and support Schumacher. I could have bought a cheaper Hobbywing equivalent but was willing to pay extra for the support that Schumacher offers in the UK and internationally, with factory representatives answering questions about optimising the products on public forums like this. It is a great help to us all. The next ESC I will buy will no doubt be another Speed Passion. The program card is so much better than counting beeping dots on my Novak GTB. I am racing on a budget, thus buying the LPF version of the GT2.0 which was slightly cheaper. I prefer to get the most out of what I have so that every pound spent makes me faster or more reliable around the track.

Actually the little quote from the software was from the software I downloaded today from the Speed Passion website, I just wasn't too picky about the bit I chose. Maybe it would have been better for me to put this bit in?

[CAR_ESC HW437_V5.0_150A]
batch =1

versionnum1 =5
version1_1 =V1.00_091026a_U
version1_2 =V1.00_091116a_U
version1_3 =V1.00_091204a_3R
version1_4 =V1.00_091207a_3R
version1_5 =V1.00_091211a_NP
down1 =
up1 =

I guess they are a bit more up to date. It really doesn't matter to me who does what in terms of bringing a product to the market, so long as the customer support is there for the product from the company who I buy it from, and Schumacher is pretty good in my book.

All I'm looking to do is really simple, and I'm sure the speedo is capable of, but I'm just not sure how. I want the car to feel like driving with my Novak GTB through the infield but be able to use the full power of the timing advance on the straight. I was thinking that I want the timing to be the physical timing of the motor up to 90% throttle and then have the timing advance only kick in at full throttle, or at a certain RPM threshold. I don't understand what DDRS actually does but am very interested in it. Maybe this is my solution? maybe turning the DDRS way down and the timing way up on the ESC I will get the desired result? Nobody seems able to give me any answers, if that is because it is a company secret then thats fine. Otherwise I thought it would be a fun project to try and look into the software .db3 database file, play around with it and see if I could make something customised to my driving style.

I don't know what the different ESC software (firmware?) versions do. I have read on this thread that this one has more power than that one at the expense of more heat, and this one is for spec and this for mod. Is there anywhere that I can get some info on what the different software versions are, rather than having to go through them one my one on the track, optimising each one with a temp gun and playing around with all the settings?

I am very greatful for the ability to update software to different versions but its hard to make an informed decision with so little information, especially as I'm somebody that has to fiddle with everything.

Ben

Ps, sorry about the long post, but I'm not one for being patronised
I think you are somewhat missing the point. The latest software does give you the rip of the GTB with the top end of a "turbo" speedo. It's just that SP do not offer you the parameters to adjust the nature of the "turbo".

This is a good thing. For every 1 post in another forum from someone that has cracked the latest ESC setup, there are 10 posts from people who are bewildered by it. The best performance I have had from my SP/Much-More ESC/13.5 combo is to leave motor timing at factory, DRRS and Timing settings on the default for the 107 software, and keep gearing up until the motor comes alive.

Just drive it. It's fast enough.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocking Donkey View Post
My brushless motor has timing set to 30 degrees as standard. I believe this is the same as for the SP motors. As I understand it, pretty much as soon as the motor starts spinning the GT2.0 goes into sensorless mode and is governed by the AMTS timing. Is the motor timing now 30 degrees + the AMTS value or is it just the AMTS value on its own? (for example with AMTS set to (7)=22.5 is the total timing 30+22.5=55.5 degrees or is it just 22.5 degrees).

In the manual it says "Timing for both sensored and sensorless motors" so I'm guessing the physical timing of the motor is overruled. If this is the case should I put the physical timing on the motor to the minimum setting of 20 degree to get the most initial torque?

Also for a brushless motor is changing the timing advance just changing the position of the sensors in relation to the windings, or is there more to it than that?

Thanks

Ben
If you run the new software without the sensor lead, the motor is dog slow. I believe that the latest softwares (on all ESCs) use the sensors to give the timing boost. The "hybrid" technology of a sensored start and a sensorless "normal" running is outdated.

Don't read too much into the AMTS setting on the latest software. There is added timing in there, of that I am certain. Just treat it as a "top end" setting, and treat the DRRS as a "punch" setting. Although the default settings work fine - I wouldn't automatically max them out as people seem inclined to do.
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Old 02-03-2010, 01:50 PM   #2120
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I already have the email you sent to Shawn, I'm trying to come up with one for you
Thanks for the assistance!
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Old 02-03-2010, 02:42 PM   #2121
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Thanks to Sosidge, Adam and all the others who have answered my Q's. I get a bit carried away with new toys. Half of the race is run in my head before hitting the track. I don't get to race on large tracks too often as my local club is in a pretty small hall, so I like to be ready when I do. I think I'll just chill out and run with 107 and see how it goes

Ben

...I'll still have a little play with the motor timing advance and see what difference this makes.
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Old 02-03-2010, 05:46 PM   #2122
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Adam you got pm
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Old 02-03-2010, 09:20 PM   #2123
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Adam you got pm
hes got pms lmao
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Old 02-04-2010, 05:25 AM   #2124
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Default Cirtix Slotless Brushless Motor

Adam/Shawn

6) What is Cirtix Rotor Magnet Type ? is it Neodymium?

7) How many Poles on Cirtix Rotor Magnet ?

8) Will Cirtix Rotor Magnet have an Optional Rotor Magnets?

9) Will Speed Passion Optional Rotor Multipoles Magnet that already available works fit in Critix ?

10) What Size is Critix Rotor Magnet ?

11) Any SpeedPassion Competition Bearing fit on Critix Rotor Shaft back/front?
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Old 02-04-2010, 07:54 AM   #2125
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1. Neodymium
2. 2
3. No
4. No
5. It's a secret
6. The motor is not easily rebuildable so in the beginning no there will not be replacement bearings.
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Old 02-04-2010, 07:57 AM   #2126
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To work off of that last answer for Irgo, I have an open question for you guys.

How many of you replace your bearings in your motor and why? Is it a bad bearing, or just "freshing" up your motor?

I ask because I run motors all the time, and I have a 13.5 well over a year old and I have never had a bearing issue, hell I've never done anything but hit it with the air compressor and a drop of oil every 6 months and it runs like it was brand new.
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Old 02-04-2010, 08:24 AM   #2127
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Originally Posted by abailey21 View Post
To work off of that last answer for Irgo, I have an open question for you guys.

How many of you replace your bearings in your motor and why? Is it a bad bearing, or just "freshing" up your motor?

I ask because I run motors all the time, and I have a 13.5 well over a year old and I have never had a bearing issue, hell I've never done anything but hit it with the air compressor and a drop of oil every 6 months and it runs like it was brand new.
thanks for the software
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Old 02-04-2010, 10:15 AM   #2128
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Originally Posted by abailey21 View Post
To work off of that last answer for Irgo, I have an open question for you guys.

How many of you replace your bearings in your motor and why? Is it a bad bearing, or just "freshing" up your motor?

I ask because I run motors all the time, and I have a 13.5 well over a year old and I have never had a bearing issue, hell I've never done anything but hit it with the air compressor and a drop of oil every 6 months and it runs like it was brand new.
Depends on the software that I am using....with the new bearing, I can tell my car is 0.000002384738 sec faster. Compare to my 3 years old 325 miles old V1 13.5 speed passion...for serious PLAYER like me that is a big different.

I replaced bearing 1 time because it was no longer a bearing, ended up like a silver bushing... Otherwise...it makes no different.
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Old 02-04-2010, 10:49 AM   #2129
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Default 10.5 settings

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Old 02-04-2010, 11:29 AM   #2130
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which version do i want to run for 2wd buggy. please help thanks
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