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Old 01-29-2010, 08:48 AM   #2011
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the handheld does look old now that you mention it.

No prob though as I have the LCD one and a few of the "newer" ones laying around here. will test out and confirm.

Thanks for the tip!
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Old 01-29-2010, 10:51 AM   #2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guinnes.s View Post
wonder if you can help guys,
im racing with a SP GT 1.0 ESC and a SP 13.5 V3 in a very small indoor carpet and im not able to get some serious torque from the motor.
due to the size of the track im using a 7.7FDR and the motor is practically cold after 5 minutes of race.
i havent played with any timing on the motor so is set as out of the box.
the esc settings are DRRS 9 AND AMTS 8.
Any tips to help me?

this is the track in regard http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBZgz9AFNfs
You geared way too low for that motor...try 4.8 final drive with AMTS 26.26 (max) and try DRRA @ 7.
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Old 01-29-2010, 10:56 AM   #2013
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
Anyone know why a Speed Passion 2.0 GT LPF when using the included programmer (NOT the LCD One) would not go up to option to enable or disable heat protection as stated on the handheld unit? The ESC works fine, but when programming it via the hand held, it won't go that high (I beleive its option 11, stops on 10)
Option 10 is the heat protection on using GT2 card....the old V1.0 V1.1 card has 11 options cause 1 of those was brushed/brushless motor options.
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Old 01-29-2010, 11:28 AM   #2014
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ahh ok. That makes a lot of sense then.

Thanks for the heads up!
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Old 01-29-2010, 03:54 PM   #2015
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Evening all... first off a warning... thoose with a nervous disposition for naked electronics should probably look away now!

Anyway, in running a GT2.0 in my 12th, I really need to drop it's height a bit, as moulding the shell to fit is a bit of an issue. So first off I though why not just grind down the heatsink... and well it developed a bit further than that now, and it no longer has a case, the +V and -V power wires connectors are the otehr way up, and the motor ones have been ground down as well (kept them the right way up to provide T-bar clearance). The keen eyed of you might also spot that there's no reciever wire in the later pics... as I've hard wired that too the pins underneath! My original plan was to run the wire through the ESC (2nd pic), put then left the plug as the tallest point... now the wires the lowest

To provide a secure and flat mounting point, I found a flat piece of thin plastic, and used some black silicone sealent to hold it all in place.
I'm still undecided as too whether to bother mounting up the heatsink (in the pics it's just resting on the FETS), but if I do, I picked up some thermally conductive adhesive tape used in PC's, so will do the trick nicely
Quite pleased with this little project... roll on next weekend

Regards
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Oh, I should point out... if anyone else does something similar, it WILL void any warrenty...
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Old 01-29-2010, 04:14 PM   #2016
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well at least you should be able to see the red/green LEDs now


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Old 01-29-2010, 07:02 PM   #2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solara View Post
You geared way too low for that motor...try 4.8 final drive with AMTS 26.26 (max) and try DRRA @ 7.
what about the timing on the motor?leave it in the middle settings?
thanx

ps: 4.8 final drive in a small track like that?

Last edited by guinnes.s; 01-29-2010 at 07:19 PM.
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Old 01-29-2010, 07:36 PM   #2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Evening all... first off a warning... thoose with a nervous disposition for naked electronics should probably look away now!

Anyway, in running a GT2.0 in my 12th, I really need to drop it's height a bit, as moulding the shell to fit is a bit of an issue. So first off I though why not just grind down the heatsink... and well it developed a bit further than that now, and it no longer has a case, the +V and -V power wires connectors are the otehr way up, and the motor ones have been ground down as well (kept them the right way up to provide T-bar clearance). The keen eyed of you might also spot that there's no reciever wire in the later pics... as I've hard wired that too the pins underneath! My original plan was to run the wire through the ESC (2nd pic), put then left the plug as the tallest point... now the wires the lowest

To provide a secure and flat mounting point, I found a flat piece of thin plastic, and used some black silicone sealent to hold it all in place.
I'm still undecided as too whether to bother mounting up the heatsink (in the pics it's just resting on the FETS), but if I do, I picked up some thermally conductive adhesive tape used in PC's, so will do the trick nicely
Quite pleased with this little project... roll on next weekend

Regards
Ed

Oh, I should point out... if anyone else does something similar, it WILL void any warrenty...
You need something to keep the 2 halves of the board together, a big hit is going to seperate them.
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Old 01-29-2010, 08:34 PM   #2019
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GT2.1 looks to be on the pace at ETS, 2nd fastest in pro stock qualifying. Upgradable software and it comes in blue, I think I'm sold
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Old 01-30-2010, 12:06 AM   #2020
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Can someone tell me what the part number is for the V3 13.5 SP motor that has timing adjustment. I think I just bought a used one where you can't adjust timing.
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Old 01-30-2010, 12:22 AM   #2021
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Originally Posted by dfiantii View Post
Can someone tell me what the part number is for the V3 13.5 SP motor that has timing adjustment. I think I just bought a used one where you can't adjust timing.
Its SP138135V3 and should look like this.
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Old 01-30-2010, 02:57 AM   #2022
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Default TRF 416 Electric Everywhere

TRF 416
Incoming

Must wait for Speed Passion Wireless Powers,
But this soon ..

TRF 416 H-Cell Free energy


and it's not too slow.

Video


Eh.. you can buy them now !

buy
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Last edited by irgo; 01-30-2010 at 04:28 AM.
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Old 01-30-2010, 07:12 AM   #2023
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When are the cirtix motors going to be available?
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Old 01-30-2010, 08:31 AM   #2024
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same Question

When is Cirtix is available ?
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Old 01-30-2010, 12:32 PM   #2025
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
You need something to keep the 2 halves of the board together, a big hit is going to seperate them.
Yeah, I've been debating this... it is a pretty tight fit, and the speedo is pretty far off the edge of the chassis. Aslo, if I put the heatsink on, there isn't a huge amount of clearance, certainly not enough for the pins too pull out fully from the holes.
For now, I'll run it as is, and if it does come apart, then figure out how to keep them together, without resorting to super glue

Ed
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