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Old 01-22-2010, 07:11 AM   #1891
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Originally Posted by tfrahm View Post
(Please pardon some "offroad" questions, but this is THE thread for Speed Passion products, so..?)

I've been running a V2/UltraSportsman 13.5 in my XXX-CR buggy, geared 28:82 with great success. (Racing in MOD 2wd Buggy on a 450'/lap indoor offroad track.)

I now have a V3 13.5, and that is where the questions come in...

I notice the V3 has almost zero endplay -- in fact, at first I thought it was zero, but there is tiny amount (I can feel it, but it's not visible). I seem to recall seeing some posts about shimming the rotor to achieve 0.05" endplay, but that wasn't from an official source..? What is the official recomendation? (leave it as is, re-shim..?)

Also -- the adjustable timing is great, but the documentation is lacking in terms of defining the real vs indicated timing. One post in this thread seemed to imply that the zero mark is truly zero timing, and the 10 degree mark is truly 10 degrees. However, another post said that measurements indicated that the factory setting (roughly 5degrees on the endbell) is actually 30 degrees of timing...??? (The V2 was fixed at about 10-12 degrees)... I don't want to "assume" anything, as a bad guess on timing could let the magic factory smoke out...?

Assuming for the sake of argument that I start with the factory timing, and retain the current GT 2.0 LPF settings (which are working well for me offroad), what gearing change would be recommended? (Up 'x' teeth on the pinion, down 'x' teeth, or stay the same to start..?)

Thanks in advance...
Leave the shimming alone...it works fine with out any modding. As far as gearing, you should probably start with the same gearing you had originally and go from there. You will notice more punch and cooler temps with the new V3.0. If If you have the stock software, it is safe to say you can gear it up a tooth or two and see how it feels. Basically, upgrading to a V3.0 you will do less work to go faster. It is a great motor.
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Old 01-22-2010, 09:38 AM   #1892
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I have the speedpassion 1.1 for over 2 years. I also have the programmer that come with it.

I'm planning to buy the LPF and I will like to know if it come with a programmer and if not, could I use the one that I use with my 1.1 esc.
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Old 01-22-2010, 09:52 AM   #1893
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Originally Posted by maximebeauvais View Post
I have the speedpassion 1.1 for over 2 years. I also have the programmer that come with it.

I'm planning to buy the LPF and I will like to know if it come with a programmer and if not, could I use the one that I use with my 1.1 esc.
Yes, the V1.1. LPF is the same as the V1.1 PRO...so if you are buying a used one LPF, your other V1.1 programmer box will work on your V1.1 LPF...

Buy if you are talking about the GT2 LPF...then it is a NO.
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Old 01-22-2010, 10:06 AM   #1894
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maximebeauvais View Post
I have the speedpassion 1.1 for over 2 years. I also have the programmer that come with it.

I'm planning to buy the LPF and I will like to know if it come with a programmer and if not, could I use the one that I use with my 1.1 esc.
if your getting a new gt 2.0 lpf then yes a programmer is in the box
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Old 01-22-2010, 11:16 AM   #1895
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thanks guy for the quick reply.

yes, I have my eye on the new 2.0 LPF

AND

I also have my eye on the mamba max pro.

both are in the same price range.

I'm just not sure which one to take LOL
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Old 01-22-2010, 02:30 PM   #1896
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Originally Posted by maximebeauvais View Post
thanks guy for the quick reply.

yes, I have my eye on the new 2.0 LPF

AND

I also have my eye on the mamba max pro.

both are in the same price range.

I'm just not sure which one to take LOL
Not sure..why? Speed Passion GT2 LRP that is...
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Old 01-22-2010, 05:42 PM   #1897
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Hey guys, running offroad truck with a 17.5. Was using 6~6.4 FDR with a stock GT2 with good results for quite a while.

Tried 110 software/firmware for a couple days with 6.4~6.6, DRRS and ATMS cranked, temps were 120~130F.

Got 107 on for tomorrow, dropped DRRS 2 and ATMS 1 step.… Does 7.1 seem low enough to start?

Thanks again in advance! Great thread.
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Old 01-23-2010, 12:02 AM   #1898
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Originally Posted by Dave H View Post
Hey guys, running offroad truck with a 17.5. Was using 6~6.4 FDR with a stock GT2 with good results for quite a while.

Tried 110 software/firmware for a couple days with 6.4~6.6, DRRS and ATMS cranked, temps were 120~130F.

Got 107 on for tomorrow, dropped DRRS 2 and ATMS 1 step.… Does 7.1 seem low enough to start?

Thanks again in advance! Great thread.
Which motor is that?
120 F is very cool...
Temp will likely be higher with the 107 in any case. You can try 7.1, but I think you will go back to more teeth.
107 has more "punch", test it out...some people run faster laptimes with the 110
You can also run the motor warmer without problems...

...
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Old 01-23-2010, 01:22 AM   #1899
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Just purchased nib gt2 lpf and am excited to try it out. Was wondering if the new v3.0 motors are sensored right?
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Old 01-23-2010, 05:50 AM   #1900
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^^^yes they are
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Old 01-23-2010, 03:51 PM   #1901
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Default Need Help!

I was out today for the FIRST time with my new GT 2.0 pro and I need some major help! It's indoor carpet touring car, rubber tires. Started off with the older LRP 13.5. No matter what I did with gearing and settings on both 1107 and 1110, I was SLOW, the car had lacked punch, lacked top speed AND lacked brakes. 2.5 seconds per lap behind everyone else (they are running mid to high 10's at the current track layout). My team mate handed me a Speed Passion V3 13.5 and told me to run it. I tried everything from FDR of 5.1 down to 4.3 and I'm still getting spanked by their 17.5's (they run tekin's and even LRP esc was killing me!). At the lower FDR (4.3 range) the best I can do is about 1.5 seconds behind, it felt faster and punchier but still NOT EVEN CLOSE. I'm running really good batteries and everything else so my problem is down to ESC setup and FDR. The only thing I just realized is I did NOT re-set my radio to the ESC (neutral, full on, full brake) between changing software 1110 and 1107. How does that affect things realistically? Is that what is causing me grief? Whats the recommended FDR range for the V3.0? And software settings if not the stock * ones?
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Old 01-23-2010, 04:03 PM   #1902
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Originally Posted by TEM View Post
I was out today for the FIRST time with my new GT 2.0 pro and I need some major help! It's indoor carpet touring car, rubber tires. Started off with the older LRP 13.5. No matter what I did with gearing and settings on both 1107 and 1110, I was SLOW, the car had lacked punch, lacked top speed AND lacked brakes. 2.5 seconds per lap behind everyone else (they are running mid to high 10's at the current track layout). My team mate handed me a Speed Passion V3 13.5 and told me to run it. I tried everything from FDR of 5.1 down to 4.3 and I'm still getting spanked by their 17.5's (they run tekin's and even LRP esc was killing me!). At the lower FDR (4.3 range) the best I can do is about 1.5 seconds behind, it felt faster and punchier but still NOT EVEN CLOSE. I'm running really good batteries and everything else so my problem is down to ESC setup and FDR. The only thing I just realized is I did NOT re-set my radio to the ESC (neutral, full on, full brake) between changing software 1110 and 1107. How does that affect things realistically? Is that what is causing me grief? Whats the recommended FDR range for the V3.0? And software settings if not the stock * ones?
Alright dude, lets see if I can help

1. Reset the radio to esc EVERY time you change s/w, set you epa's to 100%, after you calibrate max them all out.
2. what kind of temps were you seeing?
3. if the temps are low max out the timing and DRRS, and see where you are

please let me know where your at after that dude
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Old 01-23-2010, 06:38 PM   #1903
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Assuming I have not reset the radio, Neutral was still "neutral". My top end wasn't as high as it should have been, but even if full trigger only got registered as 80%, I shouldn't have as little punch as I had gotten. If I got less than full brake available, it would explain having weak brakes though. I know the drag brake works as it should when I dialed in more drag brake, it was evident on the track. The closest to normal I got with the LRP, I temped it 158 degrees. I didn't even bother temping the V3 while I had gone through FDR from 5.1 down to 4.3, changing between pinons and spurs to find a sweet spot. I think that's a reasonable range to go through. I didn't temp that motor, no point. I also varied punch from recommended * and incrementally to full. No pleasant surprises. I tried timing both lower and higher than the recommended * and again, no pleasant surprises. The V3 motor had it's timing set to the 10degree side the whole time. My next day on the track is saturday, if I get lucky, possibly wednesday. I'll keep hacking at it and report back. If anyone has any suggestions, please post!
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Old 01-23-2010, 09:07 PM   #1904
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Default need a setup on my gt speedo for the birds

going to birds what a good profile to run on the gt speedo running a 17.5 on cyclone tc what gearing would u recommend rubber class
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Old 01-23-2010, 09:07 PM   #1905
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Maybe you should start by posting what your setting were as well as any motor settings.
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