I have ran my M05 PRO 10 battery packs now... and I gotta say the MINI thing never gets old. These cars are very FUN to Drive and can be done on a modest budget... I have invested $600 dollars into mine and I really have no regrets about that.
I started off borrowing a friend of mine's M05 and attended TUESDAY night racing at WC. It was super fun and the second or maybe the first time I raced they had 21 entries for that division which I thought was AMAZING (Huell Howser voice). I already knew I was going to buy one so I strated compiling a lil set up and very helpful suggestions from guys like Granpa and Tony Tam.
So time to buy my own. I got the KIT M05-PRO for an unbeatable deal at http://www.westcoastrcraceway.com
and a couple other little odds and ends that I needed in their fully stocked hobby shop.
I started seeking out a few more hop-ups that I felt I would need for the build prior to actually starting so I found a great resource online http://www.speedtechrc.com
and purchased the aluminum steering rack, comm drops, sweep 33 deg and some five spoke rims and a KO SERVO. I would like to thank Jeff Y and the whole crew at speedtech for being very friendly and helpful! Thanks for the good guy discount.
Okay so I thought I was ready to build, countless hours of googling stuff I pretty much already knew to do and just nerding off on info and sifting through countless debates about cheating and why they want it silver can. Then I found the site I had heard about http://www.tqrcracing.com
great deals and lots of cool hop-ups if you aren't to worried about keeping it TCS legal. I have made two orders through TQ and even though they are close by to me and have a lil carpet track I took advantage of their modest shipping costs... free with orders over $100. They had what I needed and some other stuff I wanted to try. At first I had a whole bunch of three racing stuff in my cart... but thought better of most of that stuff since it will be my intention to make it out to some of the regional races for TCS. I did however stuck with the SPEC-R arms that I wanted to try and actually was the reason why I found the TQ website... I didn't want to order from Korea for several opinions... lets keep our money in the USA boys.. LOL I know we all drive Japan cars and have China toys. I also got a sick lid from HPI Racing its the Honda Civic 9th GEN hatch, basically a 97-2000 type body. I loved the style and it was a great deal for 19.99 as opossed to the 39.99 body I will have for TCS next year. Probably gonna go with the Light Weight Swift for the Season. The Civic Body fit great at the "M" wheel base.
All in all I did learn a few key M05 (M-05) speed secret, tips and tricks... I will share them with you now.
Most importantly set a budget and stick to it... I went over board on one or two things I really did not need and won't be TCS legal.
WHATS THE DIFF
The black reinforced gears are only 6 bucks and should be purchased before the build... the first step is to get greasy. Also if you want to be competitive with the car set-up the diff right the first time so you don't have to go back and do it twice. Ask your local fast guys as to what the preferred set-up is... our track has much to much grip so the spool was useless. I think the gear diff works great but it needs to be double shimmed
and use the three case screws to tune stiffness... oh yeah and don't forget to slather them gears with the Anti Wear Grease (AW)
These clear shocks have basically been made as a cool idea on paper but basically things that look this cool rarely have the proper functionality for racing. I would suggest chucking them in the trash... but I am a firm believer you should try whats in the kit befor diverging off with something so drastic as the overall intended suspension for the car. My finding were that these little shocks were tricky to build properly. If you use a traditional bleed method while scewing down the CAP... good luck- the shock will take on air and will not bleed. This will leave you with a tremendous amount of unwanted rebound. The manual points you in the right direction but the first shock took me a good ten minutes to get right. First off make sure you use the long limiters under the piston... this is how you set the droop for the car. I used 50wt oil in the front shacks and 40wt in the rear. To build the shock properly simply fill the shock body with oil... work the piston up and down and let the shock sit to expel the unwanted bubbles. Place the bladder on the top of the shock body and cover the bladder with a finger... push the piston up to bleed...now slowly take your finger off the top..without allowing the bladder to lift... now delicately screw the shock cap on. After my first run I went 40wt Losi all the way around and was very happy with the feel of the shocks. Opps almost forgot for the rear droop set it a 3mm with some aluminum shims or the supplied shorter shim and an additional 1mm shim. I am glad I tried these shocks even though they broke the first time I crashed LOL. I just super glued it back together. As a matter of fact the shocks are stronger after you break them... CA glue is awesome. I want to cut the bladders into o-rings and make emulsion style shocks (like the 22 set-up) before I chuck these clear shocks in the trash. Side note you can buy replacement shock bodies that are black but the caps don't fit the clear body so you have to switch out the whole thing.
Buy some 1mm and 2mm shims prior to the build... xray, top they all make em.
Use a 1mm shim in between the steering drag link ends... perfect amount of toe-out.. this car needs a good 2-3 of out on the FRONT.
Toe_in on the rear is already set for the PRO model. Rear Camber link 1mm shim as well... but honestly I like my mini with a 2mm shim... car does'nt want to roll over at all. I don't have the sway set yet... but if I did I would run the thinner of the two supplied Rear sways to start with a 1mm exposed end.
Wear that Rubber!
Again find out what works best for your track. Don't be shy just roll up to the fastest dude and ask him what hes running. They told me Sweeps 40deg in front with firm inserts and 33's in rear with medium inserts. I went with 33's all around and love the way my car feels.
I have learned the hard way and I have done enough reading to know that you have to pay your dues to get a good silver can going. However I have raced brushed motors for 20 years so I could imagine some of the things they do... I know advancing the motor by means of tweaking the comm is an old trick... but the new motors have a cheater free design (from what I heard). First off NEVER USE MOTOR SPRAY... it will dry out the brushes and kill the motor quicker. Get some comm drops... you gonna need them (i use the much more) Braso or mothers metal polish the comm once a race day... I like to do it before the Main... GOOD LUCK AND HAVE FUN. I love my MINI!