rezenclowd3

iTrader: (17)

I've tried different diff heights, and I think it makes more sense to adjust so that the dogbones are level with the diff, to decrease "jacking" in the drivetrain one gets from the blades/pins sliding around as the suspension rolls.

I have spent a whole day testing the diff height without the xray setup book to look at, and I do believe I ended up low front/high rear....I think. Car is not in front of me at the moment.

NiMo

From past 18yr racing experience, higher up weight makes a car roll more, not lower down weight, so the 2nd part would sound right but the first part sounds like it should be other way around?
High diff = more roll
Low diff = flatter car

SRW141

iTrader: (4)

Try this from a couple years ago from Schumacher USA

YZFAndy

As rezenclowd3 said. Diff hight affect is less to do with centre of gravity and more to do with drive torque "jacking" between on and off power.
Also a car with less roll will have less grip which does support the "Low front/low rear less overall traction" statement even if you are looking at it from a lower centre of gravity only point of view.

18 years experience i can appreciate but what has been stated is based on back to back track testing.

NiMo

OK I guess I will have to try this when I pick up the 2nd hand one during week (to be used as a wet weather car).
Does seem strange that all the set ups here (in UK) and the kit recommendations are saying to run the diffs low front and rear, which according to those here (in this forum) would give low grip?

I recently moved to Schumacher as it was impossible to obtain Cyclone parts here anymore, yet on the cyclone we ran diffs higher by placing 1mm shims between all alloy diff unit parts and chassis yet kept suspension mounts on chassis with no shims.

Guess there is a lot of differences in car set up between both which may explain why I can get this Mi4lp as quick as the Cyclone.

Will also have to look at this toe in thing up front, as the Cyclone was always toe out, and so are the setting sheets here for the Mi4lp.

High speed stability is really needed on this car going in to the banking at the end of the main straight. Not much fun having an unsteady car at speeds over 55mph in a corner.

lochness42

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Steve. Now I wish you have it posted earlier
Should have saved me a bit of work as I could already use it in my version.

Mark506

iTrader: (42)

Anyone looking for an extra Mi4, visit the link below. Blacked out, and every team mod out there.. Need it gone. Thanks guys

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ustom-mi4.html

lochness42

iTrader: (1)

Seems like I got to the end of project (or at least first
part of it).
Here is my last (pre)release version
schumacher.lochness42.eu/files/OnroadManual.pdf

If you've got any suggestions what to change/add/remove,
then let me know. Otherwise this is final version.

SRW141

iTrader: (4)

Looks good

Finch wxm

Which Litemodz driveshafts and spool should i get ?
Ive been having so much trouble with the standard ones and the stupid plastic clips !!

Not sure which are the best ones to get ?

John Pape

Get the new Schumacher CX spool and driveshafts. Very, very good.

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

+1

YZFAndy

Wait for the CX stuff to come out as the litemodz stuff is just too sloppy with play. I only get three meetings out of the litemodz shafts due to ware and that is with rebuilding and re-lubing them after every meet. Admittedly that is on a very grippy surface but steel, like the new CX style is always going to last longer.

I'm not sure if it was the aim of the design but the CX spool looks like the cup design will still finish a race even if the plastic cup fails, where the modz spool cups can snap and leave you without any drive.

Finch wxm

thanks, will wait for the cx ones to be released

Barger

iTrader: (1)

So ...anyone heard when the new car is to be released?