R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-22-2010, 02:58 PM   #1426
Tech Master
 
Danny-b23's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Posts: 1,332
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO View Post
That would be sick!

I dont think you can anodize white? Not sure
You could probably powder coat. I think that would add a bit of weight, though.
__________________
RC America|XRAY|ORCA|Motiv|EA Motorsports
Danny Buck
WCICS Rep - Round 1, Saskatoon, SK
Danny-b23 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2010, 03:28 PM   #1427
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Woodinville, WA
Posts: 2,512
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Anyone got pics of an Mi4 with a Tekin RS? I'm looking for ideas on how to mount the speedo and route the wires.

I threw my receiver on top of the servo to make plenty of room for the speedo and wires. It's so light, I figured it wouldn't affect weight balance and CG enough to worry about.

Is it worth it to rotate the motor so the wire tabs point forward instead of up?

Other random questions:

I've got two servos, and 2 cars. One is a Pro 3, which has a built-in servo saver. The other is the Mi4, and I'm planning to go sans servo saver, partly based on feedback from this thread, and partly because the servo saver rubs on the top deck. One servo is a Tower TS-140, the other is the TS-160. Same dimensions, the 160 is .2oz heavier, and it has double the torque (like 150 vs 80, or something). I think it's also .14/60 as opposed to .13/60. They're both digital, metal gear, 2BB. I'm pretty sure the 160 is actually a Hitec, and the 140 is actually a Futaba, based on the way they look and the splines. Anyway, the question is, which one would be better to run without the servo saver? Or does it not really matter?

Is there anything on the car that I should locktight, or be particularly careful not to over or under-tighten? For example, it sounds like the suspension blocks are sensitive. I'll take out the screws that go into the pins, but should I loosen up the screws into the bulkhead and maybe locktight them?

-Mike
grippgoat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2010, 03:31 PM   #1428
Tech Champion
 
MikeXray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 5,749
Trader Rating: 73 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
Anyone got pics of an Mi4 with a Tekin RS? I'm looking for ideas on how to mount the speedo and route the wires.

I threw my receiver on top of the servo to make plenty of room for the speedo and wires. It's so light, I figured it wouldn't affect weight balance and CG enough to worry about.

Is it worth it to rotate the motor so the wire tabs point forward instead of up?

Other random questions:

I've got two servos, and 2 cars. One is a Pro 3, which has a built-in servo saver. The other is the Mi4, and I'm planning to go sans servo saver, partly based on feedback from this thread, and partly because the servo saver rubs on the top deck. One servo is a Tower TS-140, the other is the TS-160. Same dimensions, the 160 is .2oz heavier, and it has double the torque (like 150 vs 80, or something). I think it's also .14/60 as opposed to .13/60. They're both digital, metal gear, 2BB. I'm pretty sure the 160 is actually a Hitec, and the 140 is actually a Futaba, based on the way they look and the splines. Anyway, the question is, which one would be better to run without the servo saver? Or does it not really matter?

Is there anything on the car that I should locktight, or be particularly careful not to over or under-tighten? For example, it sounds like the suspension blocks are sensitive. I'll take out the screws that go into the pins, but should I loosen up the screws into the bulkhead and maybe locktight them?

-Mike
If you can confirm one is a hitec, use that one, futaba's idea of MG is to still have one plastic gear, that, yup, strips out..
__________________
Mike L. Awesomatixusa.com | TQWire.com | Islandraceway.com |JacksonRCracing.com | Horsham RC | Sweepracingusa.com
MikeXray is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2010, 04:06 PM   #1429
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Woodinville, WA
Posts: 2,512
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeXray View Post
If you can confirm one is a hitec, use that one, futaba's idea of MG is to still have one plastic gear, that, yup, strips out..
Thanks. The case on the 160 looks exactly like a Hitec, and it uses Hitec splines.

-Mike
grippgoat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2010, 07:46 PM   #1430
Tech Addict
 
Timmie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Beautiful North Carolina!
Posts: 706
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
Anyone got pics of an Mi4 with a Tekin RS? I'm looking for ideas on how to mount the speedo and route the wires.

I threw my receiver on top of the servo to make plenty of room for the speedo and wires. It's so light, I figured it wouldn't affect weight balance and CG enough to worry about.

Is it worth it to rotate the motor so the wire tabs point forward instead of up?

Other random questions:

I've got two servos, and 2 cars. One is a Pro 3, which has a built-in servo saver. The other is the Mi4, and I'm planning to go sans servo saver, partly based on feedback from this thread, and partly because the servo saver rubs on the top deck. One servo is a Tower TS-140, the other is the TS-160. Same dimensions, the 160 is .2oz heavier, and it has double the torque (like 150 vs 80, or something). I think it's also .14/60 as opposed to .13/60. They're both digital, metal gear, 2BB. I'm pretty sure the 160 is actually a Hitec, and the 140 is actually a Futaba, based on the way they look and the splines. Anyway, the question is, which one would be better to run without the servo saver? Or does it not really matter?

Is there anything on the car that I should locktight, or be particularly careful not to over or under-tighten? For example, it sounds like the suspension blocks are sensitive. I'll take out the screws that go into the pins, but should I loosen up the screws into the bulkhead and maybe locktight them?

-Mike

Hi,

Here are some pics of a Tekin RS Pro on my LP.
[IMG][/IMG]

I rotated my motor tabs rearward to allow slightly longer wires to allow some flexibility later if I needed to move the motor in/out/forward/rearward depending on gearing and weight balancing needs.

The LP is really tight on space. I imagine a MI4 is pretty tight too. If you did want to move your receiver down to the chassis you can try some of the things I did. I moved the antenna mount over to the battery holder. I took the m3 nylon locknut off and then installed a long counter sunk screw that would screw into the bottom of the antenna mount. Then I also trimmed the edge off the rear servo mount. This gave me a lot more room to work with.

I'm not using a servo saver and so far have not broke a servo. If you run outdoors you'll probably be fine without one. If you run carpet you may want to look into running one.

Anything going into aluminum you want to use loctite. I'm not sure what kind of plastic was used with the suspension blocks for a MI4, but the ones that came with my LP were extremely brittle. I ordered new ones and they are a lot stronger. Appears that they changed the plastic used, the new ones I received are more of a grey finish. The only thing I noticed that needed care when building my car was the sway bar holders that go on the bulkhead. You have to be careful screwing in the little 1.5mm grub screws or the holders may crack.

Other than that the car is rock solid. Really nice ride
__________________
:: Serpent America ::Desoto Racing :: Track Star Racer Services ::Skyrocket Racing::TOP::
Timmie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2010, 09:05 PM   #1431
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Woodinville, WA
Posts: 2,512
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Timmie View Post
I rotated my motor tabs rearward to allow slightly longer wires to allow some flexibility later if I needed to move the motor in/out/forward/rearward depending on gearing and weight balancing needs.

The LP is really tight on space. I imagine a MI4 is pretty tight too. If you did want to move your receiver down to the chassis you can try some of the things I did. I moved the antenna mount over to the battery holder. I took the m3 nylon locknut off and then installed a long counter sunk screw that would screw into the bottom of the antenna mount. Then I also trimmed the edge off the rear servo mount. This gave me a lot more room to work with.

I'm not using a servo saver and so far have not broke a servo. If you run outdoors you'll probably be fine without one. If you run carpet you may want to look into running one.

Anything going into aluminum you want to use loctite. I'm not sure what kind of plastic was used with the suspension blocks for a MI4, but the ones that came with my LP were extremely brittle. I ordered new ones and they are a lot stronger. Appears that they changed the plastic used, the new ones I received are more of a grey finish. The only thing I noticed that needed care when building my car was the sway bar holders that go on the bulkhead. You have to be careful screwing in the little 1.5mm grub screws or the holders may crack.

Other than that the car is rock solid. Really nice ride
Thanks for the pics and tips. Your wiring looks really clean. One thing I'm not sure of is whether I want to put wire in-line with the post on the speedo, or perpendicular. I did my other car in-line, and it was a pain to solder and doesn't feel very secure. I think going 90* to the post, and being able to push some strands down into the notch would make things a bit more secure, but then the routing might not be so clean.

My car is an Mi4 LP, and space is actually pretty plentiful with the reciever atop the servo. I put the front belt toward the battery, so I can actually get the speedo way in under the top deck if I want to. I could move the reciever down by putting it on its side, but then it'd have to hang off the chassis a bit, and the antenna wire mounting wouldn't be quite as clean. As is, the antenna wire comes out the reciever and right up into the tube.

EDIT: I'm gonna buy a couple 48p pinions tomorrow. Any suggestions what FDR I should target as starting points for 17.5 with the Tekin RS on 203, with about a 80x40' track? I'm thinking probably 6.0 or 6.5 as a starting point. I'm more concerned about making sure the motor is cool and trouble-free than getting the max top speed, at least for my first event.

-Mike
grippgoat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2010, 11:23 PM   #1432
Tech Addict
 
Timmie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Beautiful North Carolina!
Posts: 706
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
Thanks for the pics and tips. Your wiring looks really clean. One thing I'm not sure of is whether I want to put wire in-line with the post on the speedo, or perpendicular. I did my other car in-line, and it was a pain to solder and doesn't feel very secure. I think going 90* to the post, and being able to push some strands down into the notch would make things a bit more secure, but then the routing might not be so clean.

My car is an Mi4 LP, and space is actually pretty plentiful with the reciever atop the servo. I put the front belt toward the battery, so I can actually get the speedo way in under the top deck if I want to. I could move the reciever down by putting it on its side, but then it'd have to hang off the chassis a bit, and the antenna wire mounting wouldn't be quite as clean. As is, the antenna wire comes out the reciever and right up into the tube.

EDIT: I'm gonna buy a couple 48p pinions tomorrow. Any suggestions what FDR I should target as starting points for 17.5 with the Tekin RS on 203, with about a 80x40' track? I'm thinking probably 6.0 or 6.5 as a starting point. I'm more concerned about making sure the motor is cool and trouble-free than getting the max top speed, at least for my first event.

-Mike

No problem at all, and thank you

I tried soldering my motor wires at a 45 deg. angle, but it limited how far I could move the motor forward. But if you leave your receiver on top of your servo that shouldn't be a problem for you. If you have a really hot soldering iron It's not that bad soldering the wires inline with the posts. I've had them soldered this way before and haven't had any issues with them coming loose.

As far as a starting FDR for 203, it's also dependent on what motor you plan on using. Using a Duo 17.5 On a track a little larger than you listed my settings were

FDR 5.96
TP 3
Boost 50
Turbo 10
Delay .2
Ramp 2
End RPM 13xxx
Start RPM 3xxx

Since your track is smaller, turn the turbo off completely. These settings will make the car wicked fast, but still remain smooth.
__________________
:: Serpent America ::Desoto Racing :: Track Star Racer Services ::Skyrocket Racing::TOP::
Timmie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2010, 02:50 AM   #1433
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 242
Default

I use a LP, too, and Tekin Rs Pro, i put the esc with the tabs up and receiver in the same site fron Timmie, but fliped the transmision and the receiver is under top deck, is a Sanwa 411DS.
I run modified, with Nosram 4.0T motor, and with this mount the air pass over servo and receiver and cold the esc tabs.
The servo is a GM 807, normally i run with Low profile KO 4314, but i buy this in Schumacher page and i tested it, is cheap an run very well, but is big, are 15Kg , 0.06s, stronger.
Attached Thumbnails
Schumacher Mi4-mi4lpl.jpg  
__________________
## NOSRAM ## YOKOMO BD5W ## BMI DB12RR+ ##
luic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2010, 11:24 AM   #1434
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 977
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Hello,

I am currently using the Mi4 but I have not been able to get my hands on a LP kit nor a chassis. Was just wondering if anyone out there might have the two chassis, LP and normal version, one atop another. I am interested to know, 1) where they lock down the lipo tray, are the screw holes at the same position or they are different in position.
2) If the position of the screws are the same, then is the difference of the battery position due to the difference in the lipo tray.

Thanks.
mikecan8 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2010, 12:50 PM   #1435
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Woodinville, WA
Posts: 2,512
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Timmie View Post
As far as a starting FDR for 203, it's also dependent on what motor you plan on using.
Tekin Redline. I keep getting Tekin motor's, because I can only find the speed control in stock in a combo.

-Mike
grippgoat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2010, 06:07 AM   #1436
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 11
Questions?? Broke a Pivot Block :-(

Hi All,

I like two others at least in my area have broken the stock plastic pivot blocks on our Mi4lps quite easily I'm wondering if there is a bad batch of blocks? The two crashes I saw didnt look bad enough to break the blocks but did. I broke mine when the car slipped off the table and hit the floor without electrics or battery even installed.

I tried to order some from Amain and Schumacher USA and they are on back order for at least two weeks. Does anyone know anywhere that has them in the US?

Rather then lose a weekend of racing I would get the alum. ones but again they are out of stock as well. So would this work instead?

4 Packages of SHU3130

4 Packages of SHU3129

2 Pakages of SHU3131

Would that be the same as two units of SHU3517?

Thanks,

Chris

PS Kind of puts a bad taste in my mouth that an expensive kit breaks so easily with no part availabilty in US.

Last edited by austindiver; 01-25-2010 at 06:27 AM.
austindiver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2010, 09:15 AM   #1437
Tech Master
 
Owen RaCing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Mountain Valley
Posts: 1,940
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by austindiver View Post
Hi All,

I like two others at least in my area have broken the stock plastic pivot blocks on our Mi4lps quite easily I'm wondering if there is a bad batch of blocks? The two crashes I saw didnt look bad enough to break the blocks but did. I broke mine when the car slipped off the table and hit the floor without electrics or battery even installed.

I tried to order some from Amain and Schumacher USA and they are on back order for at least two weeks. Does anyone know anywhere that has them in the US?

Rather then lose a weekend of racing I would get the alum. ones but again they are out of stock as well. So would this work instead?

4 Packages of SHU3130

4 Packages of SHU3129

2 Pakages of SHU3131

Would that be the same as two units of SHU3517?

Thanks,

Chris

PS Kind of puts a bad taste in my mouth that an expensive kit breaks so easily with no part availabilty in US.
I think there is a problem with these run of plastic pivots. They took nothing to break on mine. But Brandon's original run plastic ones have not broke any at all. So somebodys messing with the plastic or something.

I need some also!
__________________
powered by anti-anxieties, sarcasm and chipotle
Owen RaCing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2010, 01:20 PM   #1438
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 242
Default

Here too, some drivers broken the pivot blocks, contact with Schumacher and say is there some problem with the first production cars but Schumacher respond fast, the new pivot blocks are more resistent material, and donīt see broken anymore.

Greetings, Luis C.
__________________
## NOSRAM ## YOKOMO BD5W ## BMI DB12RR+ ##
luic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2010, 01:27 PM   #1439
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,155
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by luic View Post
Here too, some drivers broken the pivot blocks, contact with Schumacher and say is there some problem with the first production cars but Schumacher respond fast, the new pivot blocks are more resistent material, and donīt see broken anymore.

Greetings, Luis C.
When are they going to be available?
Joe Maxey is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-25-2010, 04:29 PM   #1440
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 267
Default

I broke a bucket load of the pivot blocks this weekend racing - all I had, plus extras borrowed from others...Really looking forward to getting the aluminum ones in.

They didn't break until I hit something though

There were three of us racing, and all three of us broke pivot blocks, but I took the prize for breaking the most of them. THe other guys were total newbs when it came to tearing them up. The good news is I can replace a pivot block really fast now...
markg is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hot Bodies Cyclone Frank McKinney Electric On-Road 19762 07-26-2017 10:42 PM
Schumacher Corner meche Electric On-Road 27727 07-20-2015 07:38 PM
2009 SEQ Onroad Interclub LOSI123 Australian Racing 348 01-06-2010 10:08 AM
Racecraft TC Challange 2 Kylelim Singapore R/C Racers 82 08-01-2009 12:07 AM
Schumacher Mi3/3.5 parts and roller!!! Eastcoast13.5 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 21 07-19-2009 01:15 PM
Opinions on TC's hippie Electric On-Road 58 07-08-2009 10:14 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:37 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net