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Old 10-05-2009, 06:23 PM   #766
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Old 10-05-2009, 07:00 PM   #767
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What is everyone running motor and gearing? also, anyone really tried without swaybars? I was tinkering with them and found that taking them off the car rolls to much and has too much grip.
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Old 10-05-2009, 07:05 PM   #768
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What is everyone running motor and gearing? also, anyone really tried without swaybars? I was tinkering with them and found that taking them off the car rolls to much and has too much grip.
Brandon (Blacked out) said he took the sways off and it was pretty bad roll wise. I ran sways only up front on the Xray, they were not that bad. But to each his own
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Old 10-05-2009, 07:39 PM   #769
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What is everyone running motor and gearing? also, anyone really tried without swaybars? I was tinkering with them and found that taking them off the car rolls to much and has too much grip.
Yeah I liked mine on better. I tried a thinner bar in the rear and went back to the kit sway bars. Car had way to much traction with out the sway bars.

As far as motor and gearing. depends on the ESC. SPX and a duo or a ballistic I run 5.8
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Old 10-05-2009, 07:40 PM   #770
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What is everyone running motor and gearing? also, anyone really tried without swaybars? I was tinkering with them and found that taking them off the car rolls to much and has too much grip.
Leave the sway bars on the car is alot better. Do you run asphalt? I posted a set up a few pages back its very easy to drive with tons of steering.

Is posted here
http://www.racing-cars.com/usa/searc...e1=prodvalue14
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Old 10-05-2009, 07:56 PM   #771
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Marcos,
looking at the setup you just posted (as I will use it to start with this weekend) I noticed your screw block spacers on the rear arm seem odd. Is 2mm front and .5 rear correct? That would be positive toe and a backward sweep of the rear arms correct?
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Old 10-05-2009, 07:59 PM   #772
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Marcos,
looking at the setup you just posted (as I will use it to start with this weekend) I noticed your screw block spacers on the rear arm seem odd. Is 2mm front and .5 rear correct? That would be positive toe and a backward sweep of the rear arms correct?
Were you running your MI4 last club race?
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Old 10-05-2009, 08:04 PM   #773
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Marcos,
looking at the setup you just posted (as I will use it to start with this weekend) I noticed your screw block spacers on the rear arm seem odd. Is 2mm front and .5 rear correct? That would be positive toe and a backward sweep of the rear arms correct?
the pivot blocks have toe molded into them. Running a 2mm shim in the front of the back of the car, and then .5 at the very rear gives very little toe. I run a 1mm shim at the very back and 2 in the front, Which I think is 1.5 or 2 deg of rear toe
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Old 10-05-2009, 10:42 PM   #774
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Were you running your MI4 last club race?
Mark, ran the TC5 last race. Its now stripped of electronics It sure looked like it could have been my maiden run with the Mi4 though.....that was NOT expert class driving.... :-( :-(

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the pivot blocks have toe molded into them. Running a 2mm shim in the front of the back of the car, and then .5 at the very rear gives very little toe. I run a 1mm shim at the very back and 2 in the front, Which I think is 1.5 or 2 deg of rear toe
Interesting. I hadn't thrown my Mi4 on the setup station yet hence why I didn't know that. I thought it looks like I have a TON of toe-in currently ( put 2mm in rear and 1mm in front) Have changed off the bat to the short med flex arms as well to start...gotta check that the width is "correct"

BTW BOR, I know you asked Vernog about some Mi4 lipo weight plates. I cut the rear batttery location out to fit the PPD bottom plate. Fits like a charm now. HOWEVER, with my Reedy 5A and weight plate, I gotta dremel the right front bulkhead just a tad as its scratching right now :-( No biggie though
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Old 10-06-2009, 06:43 AM   #775
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Old 10-06-2009, 06:55 AM   #776
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The stock rear blocks add 2.5* of toe in if they are shimmed equally front to back. For each .5mm shim you add .6*.
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Old 10-06-2009, 08:35 AM   #777
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Mark, ran the TC5 last race. Its now stripped of electronics It sure looked like it could have been my maiden run with the Mi4 though.....that was NOT expert class driving.... :-( :-(



Interesting. I hadn't thrown my Mi4 on the setup station yet hence why I didn't know that. I thought it looks like I have a TON of toe-in currently ( put 2mm in rear and 1mm in front) Have changed off the bat to the short med flex arms as well to start...gotta check that the width is "correct"

BTW BOR, I know you asked Vernog about some Mi4 lipo weight plates. I cut the rear batttery location out to fit the PPD bottom plate. Fits like a charm now. HOWEVER, with my Reedy 5A and weight plate, I gotta dremel the right front bulkhead just a tad as its scratching right now :-( No biggie though
yeah with the short arms just add a 1mm shim all around. As for the toe, haha I did the same thing in the beginning. I threw it on the set up station and it had wayyyyy to much toe. Like said above me though 1mm shims don't quite add 1deg of toe. It's a little bit more, So keep that in mind

The lipo tray, I don't even need one. The car is perfectly balanced the way it is. It might be a little off, but it runs great! I know adding a ppd tray would put wayyyyyy to much weight on the lipo side with the motor flush to the chassis.
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Old 10-06-2009, 09:28 AM   #778
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the pivot blocks have toe molded into them. Running a 2mm shim in the front of the back of the car, and then .5 at the very rear gives very little toe. I run a 1mm shim at the very back and 2 in the front, Which I think is 1.5 or 2 deg of rear toe
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Interesting. I hadn't thrown my Mi4 on the setup station yet hence why I didn't know that. I thought it looks like I have a TON of toe-in currently ( put 2mm in rear and 1mm in front) Have changed off the bat to the short med flex arms as well to start...gotta check that the width is "correct"
you need to be careful with the molded blocks, as stated, they have built in toe, so with a 1mm spacer front and rear it has like 2.5 rear toe, when your adding or removing spacers your actually twisting or putting a bind on the molded blocks. make sure your hinge pins don't bind
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Old 10-06-2009, 09:38 AM   #779
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About time
I was thinking about getting the spool and CVD's for the front. For now any anyhow lol. Is there any advantage to using them in the rear? Other then having matching CVD's
You have 2 options for the front CVD's, you can either use the standard style front shaft, or the new Stealth driveshaft.

The stealth in the rear gives the car more rear traction.
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Old 10-06-2009, 10:22 AM   #780
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Adam you need add a clause for team members, no bodies that were painted by a chimp with a crayon

Casey, I can still give you the same price I did last time bro, I can give you drips now if you want them instead of flames, and they will be in the RIGHT direction
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