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Old 07-13-2009, 07:27 PM   #391
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No I'm just having a brain fart on how I should wire this thing.


Side note is anyone else running the 96T spur in 13.5 and having issues with gear mesh? I just found out that I am
Easy fix Adam...48 pitch
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Old 07-13-2009, 09:33 PM   #392
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No I'm just having a brain fart on how I should wire this thing.


Side note is anyone else running the 96T spur in 13.5 and having issues with gear mesh? I just found out that I am
go with the 106T silly
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Old 07-14-2009, 07:07 AM   #393
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Finally broke my new ride in at Superior Summer Sizzler. I started with the full kit setup, the car was super smooth but needed more steering. (first run the front black blades decided they wanted out! grey blades ran all day after that) I then tried the med flex 4* castor blocks, next-front shocks all the way in, rears all the way out, next- 2mm spacer on the rear inner ball mount, 1mm spacer on the rear hub ball stud. Every run my car got better !!it was pretty good in the main but could still use a little more slow speed steering- qualified 5th/finished 3rd. The car was too easy to drive

Adam-yes, big spurs are back.
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Old 07-14-2009, 09:26 AM   #394
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laying the front shocks all the in is going to take steering out of the car.
drop down couple of holes on the rear and try the C/F arms in the rear.

imo, adding washers to both the inner and out ball stud were defeated by standing the shocks all the way up.

but that may be just for the track conditions/tire combo we have out my way.
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Old 07-14-2009, 10:44 PM   #395
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Originally Posted by abailey21 View Post
No I'm just having a brain fart on how I should wire this thing.


Side note is anyone else running the 96T spur in 13.5 and having issues with gear mesh? I just found out that I am
Is there more/less space then the mi3?

And Aaron said that a few pages ago, the motor hits the pulleys?

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go with the 106T silly
107's for me I already have a few

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Finally broke my new ride in at Superior Summer Sizzler. I started with the full kit setup, the car was super smooth but needed more steering. (first run the front black blades decided they wanted out! grey blades ran all day after that) I then tried the med flex 4* castor blocks, next-front shocks all the way in, rears all the way out, next- 2mm spacer on the rear inner ball mount, 1mm spacer on the rear hub ball stud. Every run my car got better !!it was pretty good in the main but could still use a little more slow speed steering- qualified 5th/finished 3rd. The car was too easy to drive

Adam-yes, big spurs are back.
Sounds like a good day! Seems like everyone is swapping to the grey diff blades?
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Old 07-15-2009, 06:04 AM   #396
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Is there more/less space then the mi3?

And Aaron said that a few pages ago, the motor hits the pulleys?
Well once I get the correct spur in the car and can get the motor where it needs to be I think i'll have enough room, but right now I have the motor mount "opened up" all the way to make sure I have enough room for gearing.

I'm putting the 106T on there today and getting my gearing close so I can see exactly how much room i have. I don't think the 4 has any more or less room than the 3.5.

And yes dude, when you flip the center pulley so the spur is on the right side of the car it hits the battery. I'm going to flip mine back today because I'm running the Speed Passion Battery with the ribs on the bottom. If I have a flat bottom pack I would leave it the way it was and move the battery out a few millimeters
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Old 07-16-2009, 09:31 AM   #397
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BOR: Is your car done? better hurry only 3 days.....you don't want Saywer to beat you right?

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Old 07-16-2009, 12:11 PM   #398
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I work at my LHS and have gotten a quite a few complaints both at the track and in the store, 90% of the claims were from the first batch if that matter
maybe that's it. mine just arrived yesterday, and the c/f is as good as i've seen. i was originally impressed with the mi3 c/f (and the carpet chassis) and the quality seems unchanged when i compare those to the mi4.

i think they source the material from the same mfr that bmi gets theirs from, and is generally touted as the best c/f available for our budget. our chassis (pl) are very stiff for the thickness and cutout locations when compared to other manufacturers. (that is why xray and tamiya equip their foam cars with 3.9mm stock - which the team xray guys end up recutting a 3mm chassis (pl) from the stuff that bmi/superior stocks).

in short, if there is a problem, it's a quality issue in a small lot of plates that went out, and not a design/budget issue. i am not sure how the factory would tackle this, but emailing them directly would be a good start.
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Old 07-16-2009, 12:41 PM   #399
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BOR: Is your car done? better hurry only 3 days.....you don't want Saywer to beat you right?

Check your PM
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Old 07-16-2009, 12:44 PM   #400
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http://www.redrc.net/2009/07/schumac...ks/#more-20980


wow new stuff!.......slacker Adam........
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Old 07-16-2009, 12:46 PM   #401
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http://www.redrc.net/2009/07/schumac...ks/#more-20980


wow new stuff!.......slacker Adam........
I knew about it the same time the UK saw it

I'll keep you updated as I hear more
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Old 07-16-2009, 01:12 PM   #402
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Originally Posted by abailey21 View Post
Well once I get the correct spur in the car and can get the motor where it needs to be I think i'll have enough room, but right now I have the motor mount "opened up" all the way to make sure I have enough room for gearing.

I'm putting the 106T on there today and getting my gearing close so I can see exactly how much room i have. I don't think the 4 has any more or less room than the 3.5.

And yes dude, when you flip the center pulley so the spur is on the right side of the car it hits the battery. I'm going to flip mine back today because I'm running the Speed Passion Battery with the ribs on the bottom. If I have a flat bottom pack I would leave it the way it was and move the battery out a few millimeters
Hmmm. So lipos with bumps are a no go with the flipped layshaft. Good to know.

So sounds like a 106 spur is what you have to use when you flip the layshaft ? So the motor wont hit the pulleys


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http://www.redrc.net/2009/07/schumac...ks/#more-20980


wow new stuff!.......slacker Adam........
Nice! More stuff to try out
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Old 07-16-2009, 04:07 PM   #403
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I have to run a 114 to get it to reach with the proper ratio i run for 13.5 .and i run lipos with the bumps upside down they fit but are about a mm away from the gear .i guess it depends on where your wires exit the pack.
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Old 07-16-2009, 05:58 PM   #404
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I have to run a 114 to get it to reach with the proper ratio i run for 13.5 .and i run lipos with the bumps upside down they fit but are about a mm away from the gear .i guess it depends on where your wires exit the pack.
Jeeze, a 114? What pinion are you running?

And what are you doing for setups at swr, norcal, etc?
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Old 07-16-2009, 06:21 PM   #405
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Hmmm. So lipos with bumps are a no go with the flipped layshaft. Good to know.

So sounds like a 106 spur is what you have to use when you flip the layshaft ? So the motor wont hit the pulleys

Nice! More stuff to try out
uumm, NO.

the problem is with the motor shaft the pinion goes on, it touches the lipo unless you off set the lipo a hair or cut the motor shaft.

not unless theres some other problem i don't know about
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