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Old 02-15-2013, 12:27 AM   #3781
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Anyone installed the twin post steering set - u3774?

Does it improve the steering response and feel? Can this be installed with the worlds suspensions mount and without?

Also, just wondered, do TC drivers generally use something to drop from 7.4v to 6v on their servo etc or with the latest stuff, can you just go straight through with 7.4v?
Any one on this?

Looking to get bits for Kit Mi4cxl I've now just bought and would appreciate any help on what stuff is needed. Lipo seems the norm these days but notice some use stubby lipos (shorter length I think) to save weight. Like quoted, I'm not sure if I need to regulate the voltage. Can TC servos and receivers as well as esc's/motors run direct?
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Old 02-15-2013, 01:50 AM   #3782
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Any one on this?

Looking to get bits for Kit Mi4cxl I've now just bought and would appreciate any help on what stuff is needed. Lipo seems the norm these days but notice some use stubby lipos (shorter length I think) to save weight. Like quoted, I'm not sure if I need to regulate the voltage. Can TC servos and receivers as well as esc's/motors run direct?
Twin point steering is ok just a different feel and yes it fits the wolrds mounts. It was better in some ways than the mi4lp wide ballstaud pully but didn' quite have corner exit ablitly of the pulley system. The kit CXL narrow ballstud pully is much better all round than both the older two.

Dont' worry about receiver voltage, any even partially modern speed controller has a BEC (battery eliminating circuit) that will feed it the correct voltage. Just plug speed controller into receiver and then plug battery in and job done.


Spares get, front rear wishbones. Standard hardened steel pins, Spur gear as standard must have spares.

Lipos are a must. They are now cheaper than cells, last longer, easier to deal with and are far better in performance. You will need lipo specific charger and some reading on how to teat them such as never completely discharging them or over charging their voltage.

As for shorty or standard the choice is yours. I run a shorty then have to stick 75grams back on the car to make it 1351 grams. Sound silly to do this but my car is balance to a gram on all four corners and has plenty of space, better air flow over the motor and it's tidy. I also believe the slight lose in capacity using the smaller packs is gained back by the weight saving too. Only thing i would say is more to do with the car being light. It can be really difficult to get grip and heat in the tyres when the track is fresh because there is not weight to scrub.
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Old 02-15-2013, 03:38 AM   #3783
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In blinky 17.5, I notice more power and a couple tenths faster laps with a 6200/60 vs a 5000/50c, both IP batteries. I can't see going to a shorty. Capacity seems secondary to the ability to keep the voltage up for more of the run.

For mods /spares, I like rear gear diff, front true cv shafts, extra steering knuckles, medium chubs for asphalt, hinge pins are my number one broken part. Arms, rear uprights, hinge pin mounts less common. Pick up spacers for tuning hinge pins and camber links. Extra 1.0 and 2.0mm quik klips, and some replacement hinge pin block screws.

-Mike
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Old 02-15-2013, 06:39 AM   #3784
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Many thanks to you both (Andy and Mike), really useful help and advice. Greatly appreciated

Scott
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Old 02-15-2013, 10:07 AM   #3785
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Team Losi once had a car out that had the batteries located right in the center line of the car...it never seemed to work well, partially because in any touring car, handling has a great deal to do with weight transfer. With the batteries on the center line, there just wasn't enough weight to transfer from side to side. Running smaller, lighter batteries and then having to add weight to the car to make min weight is only really useful if you need to move where the weight in the car is, but the Mi4's already has pretty good weight balance and distribution. For that reason I really don't see much of an advantage to it (unless the governing bodies lower the min weight required). Just my input...
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Old 02-15-2013, 04:02 PM   #3786
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Team Losi once had a car out that had the batteries located right in the center line of the car...it never seemed to work well, partially because in any touring car, handling has a great deal to do with weight transfer. With the batteries on the center line, there just wasn't enough weight to transfer from side to side. Running smaller, lighter batteries and then having to add weight to the car to make min weight is only really useful if you need to move where the weight in the car is, but the Mi4's already has pretty good weight balance and distribution. For that reason I really don't see much of an advantage to it (unless the governing bodies lower the min weight required). Just my input...
The problem with the losi car was nothing to do with lack of weight or balance. For one it weighed a ton, it was incredible stiff, all the weight was at the back of the car and high speed steering was non-existent. But the biggest problem was that because all the electronics down the middle meant the drive chain was down the left side for the rear and the right side for the front meaning the car tweaked every time you hit the throttle or braked hard.

And you don't need extra weight to get weight transfer. if you did you wouldn't see all the team drivers trying to get their cars as light a possible.

I've never really thought much on the extra capacity making much of a difference either that you lose from running a shorty pack.
I'm running a Corrally redline heavily geared in 13.5 blinky and take out 1900mHa a race with a full size pack and 1500mha out of a shorty pack with the car weighing 100 grams less. So are you really getting extra noticeable power out of a pack having a quarter more taken out of it but only having one fifth the extra capacity to begin with? Really i think the only time you will start to notice a shorty pack is when you start getting down to 8'5 turn motors or lower that are drawing serious amounts of current. 21.5 /17.5 / 13.5t i really can't see benefiting from say a 50C to a 60C park either, the motors just are not capable of drawing these kind of currents. They are limited buy the thickness of wire used to make them and controlled by Roar/BRCA/IFMAR rules.
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Old 02-16-2013, 02:07 PM   #3787
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They are absolutely fine if you shim them properly - note, properly, not as the instructions tell you!!

The most important thing is that there is no play in the output shafts - to get this, you need at least 2 x 0.1mm thick shims between the output cups and the casings on each side. I often have 3 shims on one side. You usually get 2 off these shims in the pack (the smaller diameter ones) so you will need to get some more.

In all the time we have had the diffs, I have probably broken 2 gears max - running mod etc.
thanks..how many shims works good for the inside?
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Old 02-16-2013, 02:54 PM   #3788
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Inside the diff I would just use the 1 bigger diameter shim that is supplied with the diff.
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:54 AM   #3789
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Inside the diff I would just use the 1 bigger diameter shim that is supplied with the diff.
MattW - don't happen to know why Sschumacher's Mi4 ceramic bearing kit only contains 14 bearings when a kit from acer has 18 do you ??
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:08 AM   #3790
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I don't know, but taking a guess I'd say that the Acer set includes the diff centre bearings, and the steering bearings - which you really don't need in ceramic! In fact it's debatable weather they even need to be ball bearings based on the amount of movement they actually go through.
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Old 02-17-2013, 01:05 PM   #3791
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I don't know, but taking a guess I'd say that the Acer set includes the diff centre bearings, and the steering bearings - which you really don't need in ceramic! In fact it's debatable weather they even need to be ball bearings based on the amount of movement they actually go through.
Fair point, many thanks for the reply
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:16 AM   #3792
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Do you guys drill shock caps on the top? Does it work?
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:03 AM   #3793
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Does anyone here run alloy front and/or rear driveshafts on any Mi4? Not sure what are the advantages/disadvantages?? Other manufacturers seems to run steel shafts and axles etc.
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:37 PM   #3794
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The advantage is that they are lighter. I run alloy rears all of the time, and alloy fronts only outdoors, as indoors with hard barriers they can sometimes get damaged in a really big crash.
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Old 02-23-2013, 07:59 AM   #3795
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Hi I have just got back into on road. I have been racing off road for 26 years and have not tuned a on road car for a long time and when I did it was a 12th scale. I have run my Schumacher TC 2 times in practice. I need to know how to fight traction rolling. Any help would be great.
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