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Old 08-08-2012, 02:13 AM   #3631
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Hello everyone.
I have just published a report from the worlds and german Nationals just passed, which you can find here (click)
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:30 PM   #3632
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Any tips for securing the battery in the cxl? I'm using small silicone pads and tape, but the tape failed twice in one day. I haven't had good luck with the locators in the past, and I'm not enthusiastic about using them. I did some more filing on the slots, so hopefully the tape won't fail again.

My first day with the cxl went pretty well, though. I ran the kot asphalt setup with the front links .5mm higher, with hpi silver front blue rear springs. The car was a bear with old tires and Tamiya shocks that were probably seeping, and fresh gear diff internals that were breaking in. Super squirelly and hard to drive clean. But after the diff freed up and I switched to fresh tires, the car was good. After I switched back to schui shocks with clear orings, the car was awesome, putting in probably my best run ever. It was really, really smooth. It had a hint of understeer I'm going to try and fix with silver rear springs.

-Mike
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:40 PM   #3633
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Use good tape, double up if you have to.

I have never had the battery loosen up on me.
I use a pair of lexan scissor on the tape slot, shave the edge off the graphite, I find it easier than using a file.

If you want a bit more extra security use servo tape under the battery for maximum holding.

I did not like using the lipo locater tabs...always fell off if you don't use some sort of epoxy on them.
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:16 AM   #3634
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olhipster1 View Post
Use good tape, double up if you have to.
I'm using Hudy. I didn't think of doubling it.

Quote:
I have never had the battery loosen up on me.
I use a pair of lexan scissor on the tape slot, shave the edge off the graphite, I find it easier than using a file.
Maybe I'll try that. My previous file job was somewhat rushed. I just put some serious time into it last night, though, including using a round file to get the ends of the slot. I flossed the slot with some battery tape to see if I could get it to cut, and I couldn't, so hopefully I'm good to go.

Any tips for keeping the hinge pin mounting blocks from rotating so easily? The arms get a bit sloppy through the run, even if I don't tap anything. I do like how free the arms pivot without the screws in the end, though. I wonder if counter-sinking the screw holes in the blocks like Grainger's car would help.

-Mike
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:38 AM   #3635
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
I'm using Hudy. I didn't think of doubling it.

Maybe I'll try that. My previous file job was somewhat rushed. I just put some serious time into it last night, though, including using a round file to get the ends of the slot. I flossed the slot with some battery tape to see if I could get it to cut, and I couldn't, so hopefully I'm good to go.

Any tips for keeping the hinge pin mounting blocks from rotating so easily? The arms get a bit sloppy through the run, even if I don't tap anything. I do like how free the arms pivot without the screws in the end, though. I wonder if counter-sinking the screw holes in the blocks like Grainger's car would help.

-Mike
a couple of swipes with a scissor and that's is all...guaranteed.
tape will never break again.
don't forget to place a weight on the inner chassis to act as the battery stopper (two 2-5 gram weights are perfect). keeps the batt from rubbing the belt.

Arms mounts..if you're using shims...sand the shim with a rough paper. again a couple off passes on both side to give it a little gripping action against bulkhead and arm mounts.
this is something I've done with Xray, Assoc and Top. it helps keep the mount in position...
I can say my mounts barely move but there is always a chance of slight movement after a hit..this is for all cars (blocks or mounts).
unless you have a drill press..i wouldn't try and counter sink the mounts...
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Old 08-30-2012, 12:10 PM   #3636
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olhipster1 View Post
unless you have a drill press..i wouldn't try and counter sink the mounts...


I modded the kit top deck (actually the top deck from my long top deck conversion which had already been clearanced a bit for the belt). I drilled and counter-sunk a hole to put the antenna tube hold up there, a bit forward of the middle of the car, right on the centerline. It makes it a lot easier to see how the car is rotating. Plus it looks cooler.

I don't have a center battery stop. I just line the battery up with the inner edge of the top deck. I'm running the front belt to the left, with the battery in the rear position. I've got some thick plastic sheet I could custom some battery stops out of, though. It's about the same thickness as the lipo locators. I'm not sure it's really necessary, though. As long as the tape holds, those silicon pads keep the battery totally planted.

-Mike
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Old 08-30-2012, 01:39 PM   #3637
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The screws in the end of the hinge pins are there to stop the blocks from moving. Agreed you might need to do a bit of work (especially with the kit kwik clips) to get the arms moving freely, but if you do that then the blocks can't move.
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Old 08-30-2012, 02:02 PM   #3638
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The screws in the end of the hinge pins are there to stop the blocks from moving. Agreed you might need to do a bit of work (especially with the kit kwik clips) to get the arms moving freely, but if you do that then the blocks can't move.
I've been running screws since I got my Mi4LP a couple years ago. The only reason I ran without is because the used CXL I got had one or two Ti hinge pins without the threads, so I figured I'd give it a shot.

Does anyone have a feeling for whether you're more or less likely to tweak / bend a hinge pin in a board tap when using or not using screws? I've got a bag full of slightly tweaked hinge pins.

-Mike
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Old 08-30-2012, 02:05 PM   #3639
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i recommend not to use the pins with the screws...they bend quickly.
the gap between the screw end point and final thread create a weak spot in the pin.

I've only use the Ti pins. no weak spot. I prefer to let the arm mount shift slightly than let the car be tweaked by a bent hinge pin.

Ti pins are well worth the money.

My only wish is Schumacher would release steel hinge pins.
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Old 08-30-2012, 04:49 PM   #3640
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olhipster1 View Post
i recommend not to use the pins with the screws...they bend quickly.
the gap between the screw end point and final thread create a weak spot in the pin.

I've only use the Ti pins. no weak spot. I prefer to let the arm mount shift slightly than let the car be tweaked by a bent hinge pin.

Ti pins are well worth the money.

My only wish is Schumacher would release steel hinge pins.
I actually made some hinge pins myself, but never ran them. I got some 1/8" steel rod at the hardware store (like $4 for 3 ft) and cut it to 55mm length. The quality of the rod wasn't very good, though, so fitment in the arm was sketchy, and they rusted after sitting in my parts box.

-Mike
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Old 08-31-2012, 11:09 AM   #3641
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Yeah the pins with screw holes do get tiny tiny bends in them, but for me that beats the "Z" shape bends I can put in the titanium ones. If anyone really wants steel pins with no screw holes, then the Mi1 pins are about 2-3mm longer, so can easily be trimmed!
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Old 08-31-2012, 01:06 PM   #3642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
I actually made some hinge pins myself, but never ran them. I got some 1/8" steel rod at the hardware store (like $4 for 3 ft) and cut it to 55mm length. The quality of the rod wasn't very good, though, so fitment in the arm was sketchy, and they rusted after sitting in my parts box.

-Mike
If you are going to make your own and don't want them to bend try using drill blanks. They wont ever bend. They will shatter before they will bend. And there is no way you'll ever crash hard enough to break them. If you do there will be more than a broken pin to worry about. Drill blanks can be gotten in differant sizes and in multiple lengths.
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Old 09-03-2012, 10:27 PM   #3643
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I had a chance to play with an Xray steering knuckle. It looks like it will in fact fit the chub. It's about 1.5mm shorter top to bottom, but I'd expect that space to be filled by the flanged bushings. The inner hole for the steering link looks like exactly the same geometry as the middle hole on the schui knuckle. However, on the xray knuckle, the bearings sit about 2mm further inwards. So a wider hex or spacers would be needed to put the wheel in the sane place, and the bones might bottom out in the outdrives. That might be fixable by running rear bones in the front.

-Mike
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Old 09-04-2012, 12:54 PM   #3644
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
I had a chance to play with an Xray steering knuckle. It looks like it will in fact fit the chub. It's about 1.5mm shorter top to bottom, but I'd expect that space to be filled by the flanged bushings. The inner hole for the steering link looks like exactly the same geometry as the middle hole on the schui knuckle. However, on the xray knuckle, the bearings sit about 2mm further inwards. So a wider hex or spacers would be needed to put the wheel in the sane place, and the bones might bottom out in the outdrives. That might be fixable by running rear bones in the front.

-Mike
I tried to modify with Xray knuckles...a while back.
the problem i ran into was the bushing (Xray) with the gap the Schu king pin with not reach into the Steering knuckly fully creating a major week spot.
I tried the Xray bushing with it but it had a little bit of slop i didn't want to press my luck running it on the track...it was $35 dollar experiment which did not work.
I even tried retro fitting the X Chub...that is a no go...too much work.

Shu should change the look of the current knuckles...too old school..
don't get me wrong they work..and are pretty darn strong...
Everything else on the car is ultra nice.
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Old 09-11-2012, 05:38 PM   #3645
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olhipster:

I just noticed, on the car I got from you, the steering knuckles are upside down (swapped left to right). Was that something you did on purpose? If so, why is that?

It would move the outer tie rod end upwards by probably 2-3mm, creating bumpsteer (although I haven't investigated which way).

-Mike
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