R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-06-2012, 09:11 PM   #3571
Tech Fanatic
 
Taman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: GC, Aust
Posts: 835
Trader Rating: 64 (100%+)
Default

Cool thanks appreciate the answer, I thought there might be too may variables but I'd say your idea is most likely what caused it. As I'm new to touring cars I just wanted to make sure I didnt over tighten the belt.
__________________
Toms 84C, Nissan R91CP, Porsche 956, TRF 417 V5.

Last edited by Taman; 06-06-2012 at 10:46 PM.
Taman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2012, 09:14 PM   #3572
Tech Champion
 
skypilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,516
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Taman View Post
I just bought a 2nd hand Mi4CX - my first touring car and I'm wondering why I waited so long. I'm really impressed with the quality of the car.

Can someone please give me some advice on the below issue in the pic. The side of the pulley has come off and the pulley teeth are damaged, any suggestions on what may have caused this? I did jump a few curbs prior to this happening so I'm thinking I may have damaged it then or can you do this by over tightening the belt?

Also the chassis doesn't have Mi4cx engraved into it, any sugitgestions on what chassis it may be? It used to be run on carpet in the UK.

thanks appreciate your help
as far as the belt issue is concerned, it seems the belt was putting a lot of pressure on the left side of the pulley seperating the pulley race from the pulley I can't remember, is the diff in backwards. when free spinning the drive train the belt should center its self on the pulley, don't think its from over tightening
__________________
#49, #25a, #91, #7, #12 the ones to watch.... UPDATE. #12 is your new AMA GNC #1

A Northwest Team of Positive actions
skypilot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2012, 10:51 PM   #3573
Tech Fanatic
 
Taman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: GC, Aust
Posts: 835
Trader Rating: 64 (100%+)
Default

I thought I assembled it as per instructions but I'll take another look just in case I'm going to fit a Spec-R diff as they have had good reviews. Will be getting a Mi4CXL in a couple of weeks as I am impressed with my Mi4CX.
__________________
Toms 84C, Nissan R91CP, Porsche 956, TRF 417 V5.
Taman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2012, 07:56 AM   #3574
Tech Elite
 
olhipster1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Asgard
Posts: 3,952
Trader Rating: 94 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to olhipster1
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Taman View Post
I thought I assembled it as per instructions but I'll take another look just in case I'm going to fit a Spec-R diff as they have had good reviews. Will be getting a Mi4CXL in a couple of weeks as I am impressed with my Mi4CX.

the Spec R internal are quite nice for the CXL...all the carbon stuff came in all of mine.
use a little RTV to fully seal it. They leak without it.
__________________
everything is Cause and effect
every Action has a reaction.
"I drank too much wine - I must take a p!ss"
CAUSE and EFFECT
olhipster1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2012, 11:03 AM   #3575
Tech Master
 
poochy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,444
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Taman View Post
I just bought a 2nd hand Mi4CX - my first touring car and I'm wondering why I waited so long. I'm really impressed with the quality of the car.

Can someone please give me some advice on the below issue in the pic. The side of the pulley has come off and the pulley teeth are damaged, any suggestions on what may have caused this? I did jump a few curbs prior to this happening so I'm thinking I may have damaged it then or can you do this by over tightening the belt?

Also the chassis doesn't have Mi4cx engraved into it, any suggestions on what chassis it may be? It used to be run on carpet in the UK.

thanks appreciate your help
i once did this
cause=during installation, i over shaved (with exacto knife) the pulley side wall so it snaps on the pulley easier,,,,user error
poochy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2012, 11:04 AM   #3576
Tech Master
 
poochy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,444
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Double D Donuts View Post
Hey guys, I have run my new CXL for a few weekends now and I am getting the car closer to my liking. My problem is the car is still pretty slow compared to my original mi4.

The car "feels" planted, and is quick to react, but the lap times are almost 2 seconds slower then some of the best guys. On average I run mid 17 second lap times, and teh occasional mid 16, while the good guys are running mid 14s and 15s.

My old mi4 had the aluminum suspension blocks with some spacers i never moved around, except for rear toe. Should I swap the suspension blocks over?

Also, I have had people tell me that running a gear diff in the front is a bad idea. I am running a gear diff in the front (nearly locked) and ball diff in the rear. The point of the gear diff in the front is to be similar to a spool, but not so much stress on the drivetrain, and less scrubbing of speed.

Last season I managed to grab a set of soft compound tires (30 shore) compared to the hard compound we find locally (36 shore) and the car felt amazing. The problem is...these guys are running the same tires I am currently running. What could I be doing so wrong?
2 seconds is a lot,,,,check that your tires are glued on the the rims
poochy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2012, 11:44 AM   #3577
Tech Master
 
poochy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,444
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Taman View Post
I thought I assembled it as per instructions but I'll take another look just in case I'm going to fit a Spec-R diff as they have had good reviews. Will be getting a Mi4CXL in a couple of weeks as I am impressed with my Mi4CX.

do not overtighten the specR gear diff screws--it causes the case to separate if you do....use a little gasket sealant,not too much!, where the gasket seals to the plastic case,,use greenslime on the o-rings--.2 shim on the inside, .1 on the outside----always use the carbon gears
poochy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2012, 06:50 PM   #3578
Tech Champion
 
skypilot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,516
Trader Rating: 14 (100%+)
Default

and be sure to check and double check the centering of the belt, If i remember correctly I had like 4 bearing shims on side and 1 on the other in order to get it to run true
__________________
#49, #25a, #91, #7, #12 the ones to watch.... UPDATE. #12 is your new AMA GNC #1

A Northwest Team of Positive actions
skypilot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2012, 02:16 AM   #3579
Tech Fanatic
 
Taman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: GC, Aust
Posts: 835
Trader Rating: 64 (100%+)
Default

Thanks for all the help guys, really appreciate it!
__________________
Toms 84C, Nissan R91CP, Porsche 956, TRF 417 V5.
Taman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2012, 12:07 PM   #3580
Tech Adept
 
kp-61's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 211
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

just incase some are wondering how to mount a fan on our cars. I had the double sided tape for some time but does come off when i hit the wall







and my custom chassis protector... This was after few races with some mishaps along the way LOL

__________________
* VISA * MASTER CARD :)
kp-61 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2012, 06:18 AM   #3581
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 12
Default

just rebuilding the shocks on my cx for the 3rd or so time, quite new to racing and stuff so help required! my shocks always leak, should i use the clear o rings, double blue o rings, any green slime anywhere? racing on smooth carpet with standard springs. tyia
Luvs-cougars is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2012, 06:39 AM   #3582
Tech Elite
 
olhipster1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Asgard
Posts: 3,952
Trader Rating: 94 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to olhipster1
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Luvs-cougars View Post
just rebuilding the shocks on my cx for the 3rd or so time, quite new to racing and stuff so help required! my shocks always leak, should i use the clear o rings, double blue o rings, any green slime anywhere? racing on smooth carpet with standard springs. tyia
To stop leaking use the red one-rings if you have them
Yes use green slime never hurts.
The blue or-rings that are in the rebuild kit work great.

Also make sure you build the bottom of the shocks correctly
O-ring first then spacer otherwise it will leak.


Once they are built correctly they are one of the best.

Almost forgot if you have piston slap shim under piston to remove any play...
__________________
everything is Cause and effect
every Action has a reaction.
"I drank too much wine - I must take a p!ss"
CAUSE and EFFECT
olhipster1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2012, 06:43 AM   #3583
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 12
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by olhipster1 View Post
To stop leaking use the red one-rings if you have them
Yes use green slime never hurts.
The blue or-rings that are in the rebuild kit work great.

Also make sure you build the bottom of the shocks correctly
O-ring first then spacer otherwise it will leak.


Once they are built correctly they are one of the best.

Almost forgot if you have piston slap shim under piston to remove any play...
actually its the 2nd time ive rebuilt since new, last time i used 1 blue ring and a spacer, and always had oil on ball cup! so do i use 2 blue orings without the spacer?
Luvs-cougars is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2012, 07:17 AM   #3584
Tech Master
 
poochy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,444
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Luvs-cougars View Post
actually its the 2nd time ive rebuilt since new, last time i used 1 blue ring and a spacer, and always had oil on ball cup! so do i use 2 blue orings without the spacer?
i used two o rings-
from memory, i believe it should go like this---o-ring, spacer, o-ring, and then bush (but im not 100% sure, this is how they are used on the cougar sv)

Last edited by poochy; 06-14-2012 at 07:28 AM.
poochy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2012, 09:25 AM   #3585
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 12
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by poochy View Post
i used two o rings-
from memory, i believe it should go like this---o-ring, spacer, o-ring, and then bush (but im not 100% sure, this is how they are used on the cougar sv)
Thanks for the help guys, I now believe it's just 2 blue o-rings or the clear o-ring plus spacer. Think the 2 blues give longer use but with more drag (and less leakage) and the clear o-ring plus spacer gives less drag but less time before rebuilds.
Luvs-cougars is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hot Bodies Cyclone Frank McKinney Electric On-Road 19761 10-14-2016 03:50 AM
Schumacher Corner meche Electric On-Road 27727 07-20-2015 07:38 PM
2009 SEQ Onroad Interclub LOSI123 Australian Racing 348 01-06-2010 10:08 AM
Racecraft TC Challange 2 Kylelim Singapore R/C Racers 82 08-01-2009 12:07 AM
Schumacher Mi3/3.5 parts and roller!!! Eastcoast13.5 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 21 07-19-2009 01:15 PM
Opinions on TC's hippie Electric On-Road 58 07-08-2009 10:14 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 08:55 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net