Blink281

iTrader: (1)

If you use "the right stuff" and race 13,5/17,5 you have to ad wight to the CLX....

All just what type of equipmet you are using.....

just prepared my CLX for the next ETS race ...... ups 1327gr..... and thats in 13,5 blinky with SP 13,5 locked motor and SP citrix speedo..... and a big seccret....

Kensei

I'm replying because your electrics resemble mine. Maybe want to consider again but only if the following questions are answered in depth.

- what does the word "ups" mean?
- is 1,327gr raceready, including LiPo, all electronic, body and tires?
- tires are the ones that are mandatory in ETS? (Sorex 3R?)
- which LiPo and how much does it weigh?
- what big secret?
- other hop ups used to get weight down?
- what do you mean by "the right stuff"?
- I want to know exactly what stuff that is!

My config will be:
- SP 13.5t V3 (Nr. 138135V3)
- SP Cirtix
- CS LiPo 7,200mAh 295gr
- receiver RX-461 10gr
- lightweight body LTC-R
- servo Sanwa SDX-801 50gr
- tires Sorex 32R (mandatory for club racing also ETS)
- transponder (as usual)

So one more time:
will I be able to meet the weight criterion of 1,350gr this way?!

This is the one thing that stands in the way of buying me Schumacher stuff.
I am, as you maybe know by now, very very allergic to extra weight.

One thing I also take into consideration is the following:
I heard of rumours that the weight once again would be brought down.
Hope these rumours stay rumours....
If not, the weight issue will be that more important!

As to why using this LiPo:
to put it simple: more mAh leads to more power and more running time. A higher C rating leads to more power.

However, even more important than these factors is the temperature of the battery. The warmer it is, the lower the resistance will be and the more power it will give.

If maximum performance is ones aim, than one would want the highest C rating AND the highest capacity in mAh AND one wants the battery warm, but not hot.

I am a big fan of prewarmed LiPo's, but sadly rules don't allow that.

Blink281

iTrader: (1)

The first thing to "save" wight is changing speedo wires to thiner when racing 13,5/17,5 there you can save a lot of wight, then use shorty type of lipos( Team trinity DD 60C) they are 208-215 gr (normal lipos are 310-315 gr) aluminim screws, alu driveshafts.

PF Mazda 6 LW with MR33 ving, mounted with plastic screws, white painted with 1 layer of paint..stickers no thanks

And use of dremel to shave of the rest

ETS use RIDE tires, they are 1 gr lighter than sorex 32/36

But the mainthing to save wight is speedo wires and shorty lipo

And a 13,5/17,5 with a spec speedo has it limitations with pulling out amount of C from a lipo..... ETS motor is locked timing at 10*.......

Kensei

- could you please provide me with an internetlink as to where you got those LiPo's in Europe?
Something like http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...oducts_id=3857
or http://www.hk-modellbau.de/default.a...=1&kat_id=1307
or http://www.skmotion.net/PROTEK-LIPO-...ER_p_3680.html
- so we're back to the shorty LiPo again
- are you saying that the LiPo I use is not necessary because the speedo can't pull that kind of C. So my LiPo is "overkill". And with no locked timing at 10*. Like at our club? (I mean the motor can go up to 20 degrees timing)
- where is your esc located? Left or right?
- and if left, is the car off balance then because of less weight on the LiPo-side?
- and if so do you have to add weight? If so how much?
- could you please provide me with a pic of your car? Very curious as to how your config looks like. And of course the body
- could you please provide me with a link as to where and what wires to use to save weight
- aluminum screws and alu driveshafts are from Schumacher?
- could you please provide me with partnumbers?
- MR33 Wing can be bought separately?
- You mean it is lighter than the one that comes with the LTC-R lightweight body I have?
- and the plastic screws? Come with the MR33 wing? If not which ones to get? (partnumbers)
- any problems mounting the shorty LiPo on the chassis? How do you do it? I mean there are four slots in the chassis. As I see it they are for tall LiPo that can be mounted in forward and backward position

Kensei

@blink281

You mean something like this?

http://forum.racing-cars.com/forum_p...umacher-mi4cxl

Kensei

What parts is Martin Hofer using to get the car down to 1,350gr with a regular LiPo?

In other words, can it be done with using a truckload of parts from the "secret parts list" that is in the manual?

grippgoat

iTrader: (8)

Look for pics at ets.redrc.net. I think he's just using the standard kit with some Ti and aluminum screws.

-Mike

Kensei

What weight of oil would you suggest for the Spec-R geardiff?
Low-traction tarmac
Medium-traction tarmac
High-traction tarmac
Carpet

Do you drill holes in the shock caps, for instance 1mm?
If so where exactly do you drill them?

Kensei

Can the topdeck be used for topdecktuning?
I mean for instance leaving screws out for more flex?
Or isn't it designed to work that way?

What pinions and spurs best to use other than the ones from Schumacher?

I don't understand the toe-in in the rear with this car. I do understand that toe-in can be created with extra shims and that a certain shims creates 0.6 degrees of toe.....
When I look in the manual I see in front of the rear axle and on the back of the rear axle a 1mm grey washer being used. Being front and back both 1 mm means that toe-in is 0 degrees?
If not, than I totally don't understand!
To get toe-in you have to do something with blocks or just with washers?

Are there double jointed front axles available for this car?
As I read, hear and see the double jointed front axles are developed to decrease front wheel vibration when racing with a solid front axle, thus providing a much smoother and quieter ride and increased steering.
Anyone know of the problems with this car because of the lack of such an axle?

I am interested in the "Speed Secret - Option Parts". However can't find anything on lightweight screws in that list. Do these exist, ti or alu? Partnumber or otherwise?

How about drilling the shockcaps? Opinions are wide spread. Some say it is a must on tarmac tracks. Some say only few can race a car with this modifications (can't believe...)
Any ideas, suggestions, experience?

How best to mount the LiPo?
I am not a fan of the LiPo Retainer and don't see it being used that often.

Which parts are in the kit to best mount the LiPo?
I read about batterylocators. For little blocks punched out of the chassisplate?
Are these in the kit?
How to use these? Do you have to glue them to the LiPo?
Or do you have to glue them to the chassisplate?

Can there be problems as to space on the motor side? See this picture.
How did he do this?
The mounts of the LiPo are cut off on one side?
So only screwed on the chassisplate on the front side? (used double sided tape?)
And what about the antenna mount?
As I see it, it is mounted on top of the receiver? How does it fit and hold?
Is this specific for this set up and is it done otherwise in general?
Can it be done like the manual suggests?
And if so what about problems with not enough space because the servo is positionend longitudinal?
http://ets.redrc.net/gallery/?nggpage=4
Especially look at the second row, picture most on the right.

bdortch

iTrader: (3)

Are you guys using aluminum spacers on the outer hinge pins? I would like to use aluminum spacers but don't know what size fits the pins???

Also, I am assuming to do the steering mod - mounting the steering to the chassis - you have to cut the bulkhead ends where the steering mounts, according to the instructions. I understand their team drivers are doing this mod - do you think Schumacher will come out with an upgrade - a new steering system to make this a bolt on option?

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

Are you guys using aluminum spacers on the outer hinge pins? I would like to use aluminum spacers but don't know what size fits the pins???
I am using the supplied spacers that came in box...they work very well...i sand with 600 grit (very quick) just to make them smooth...
-I have done this with every brand car.
i may be able to measure but probably not until tonight.


Also, I am assuming to do the steering mod - mounting the steering to the chassis - you have to cut the bulkhead ends where the steering mounts, according to the instructions. I understand their team drivers are doing this mod - do you think Schumacher will come out with an upgrade - a new steering system to make this a bolt on option?

I personally don't think this is needed....the car has a ton of steering..
that is something the drivers are using to make the car feel more linear...
when you're looking for that .0001 of a second.
try the car built out of the box first before trying the other things...the car is outstanding.
will Schui make it an option...prob not...new bulkheads, etc...perhaps at the end of 2013 (next release-assumption)..maybe.
the only option parts i would suggest are
TI inner hinge pins.
different Shumacher spurs (depending on what class you're running).
That's it.

I did change the turnbuckle ends to Tc6 ends..only because i had them in my bag from my last car. This is not necessary but the car does look very nice with it.

Double D Donuts

iTrader: (15)

Hello everyone! I am finally upgrading from my original MI4 which will be handed down to my girlfriend! I just ordered the new MI4CXL and am expecting it to be here soon. Any tips when building a new kit? I've built tamiya basic kits before (TT01, TA05) but not a "racing" quality kit when new. What are the do's and dont's? any modifications?

One thing a local racer reccommended was to take all of the bearings, let them sit in rubbing alcohol to remove the grease, and then add a light oil to them. wrong? right?

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

What's going on....
The kit is very easy to build.
YouTube "Mi4 or Mi3" there should be a few videos on how to build diffs and shocks...
diffs
- will say the hardest part is putting on the fence (outside part to hold belt in).
The trick is to take an exacto knife and scrape the inner edge off the fence..then it just snaps into place.
(do the same for the pulley fence)...same process in the MI3 thru Mi4CXL
-don't forget to follow the instruction when building the diff...the lock grub screw is super important.

shocks
-they go together very easy. just choose the correct o-ring. Red or blue are fine. the clear is going to leak.
butter smooth.

bearings
-i just oiled mine right from the box (no cleaning). still on my original set.

spool
Use the black plastic outdrives in the front and Grey soft in the rear. Greys are softer and when used in the front it bind the bones eventually.


No modifications needed to make the car work..just find the right setup for your driving style.
the rest is very easy...same as building others.

*Suggest* get a few extra spur gears...other brand spur gear do not fit the car.
layout electronics with the motor in the most forward position...this will give you the largest window for spur and pinion combination. There is a lot of room, double what most other brands have.

A few pages back I uploaded a setup (for CLX but on CX sheet) I've been using and there a number of others on the Schumacher website.

Kensei

Don't like my questions not being aswered.
Going to buy me another car.

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

i will be honest...not being rude..
but if you read thru the posts 90% percent of your answers are there.
part of this hobby/sport is getting your "On-hands" time and seeing what works and doesn't.

after you get an answer, you ask the same thing several times..
a bit OCD, perhaps!!!!

if you go with a different brand you won't get the same response you received on this thread...go ahead and try...

Every car is different. Without buying it and trying it, You will not know, it's as simple as that.

as I stated before...Good Luck.
we tried to help you.