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Old 03-23-2012, 12:39 PM   #3436
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Originally Posted by doriftu View Post
i built the ball diff and followed the manual and Chris Grainger's video to tighten it until the cone washer flatten.

Now, the diff feels like there are notches when I turn them. Did I damaged the diff by over tighten it until the balls notched the plates?

Should I rebuilt with new plates?

I loosen the diff and the 'notch' feeling goes away... its there only when the diff is quite tight.
u should not test the diff when its tighten down (cone washers flatten)
i believe the cx book states to back it off 45 minutes, then do the spur gear diff test holding the rear wheels<--put wheels on to test
if it slips, tighten it 10 minutes.......then test, and so on
if u didnt drive it then u didnt do damage to the diff washer, if u did then flip the washer over instead of replacing it............
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Old 03-24-2012, 01:45 AM   #3437
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If you can get the gear diff.
The Schumacher gear diff is made by Spec R, the bonus is that the
gear diff comes with upgrade carbon gears...very nice fit....mine has been leak proof since day one...just follow the build guide.

Hi
Will the gear diffs I use in my mi4 lp fit the Mi4cxl?
Cheers
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Old 03-24-2012, 04:58 AM   #3438
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Hi
Will the gear diffs I use in my mi4 lp fit the Mi4cxl?
Cheers
yes it will
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Old 03-24-2012, 01:59 PM   #3439
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Originally Posted by Martin Hofer View Post
You are absolutely right.

On tarmac tracks in general it is very common to drill holes in shock tops not only on our car but on almost everyone.

It will make the car roll a bit more, generate more steering (which is always necessary on tarmac) and just give more corner speed.

I have found that on bumpy tracks (UK!) more rebound is better as there is more contact between tires and surface :-)

The way you drill the hole is explained below.

Why do you drill hole:

we'll to be honest, it's not exactly drill because it makes building the shocks less necessary every other run (as mentioned below) but rather to make the shock work in a different way.
When you have no hole, the bladder seals a air volume between bladder and shock top. This acts like a spring -> that's the rebound you get when building your shocks the regular way, even if you push the shaft all the way in.

Furthermore, even if you build your shocks with the least possible amount of rebound (undrilled still!), the shaft will be sucked back into the shock when it gets pulled out also known as "suck back".

This suck back effect is inevitably and does not harm the cars performance. In fact, it makes the car very reactive around neutral when you run low rebound / a lot of suck back, as the suspension "wants" to compress immediately.

Both effects, the little bit of rebound you always get and the suck back are desirable on carpet but not perfect for handling on tarmac, as on tarmac you aim to have a super smooth and more linear suspension operation.

therefore you drill the shock tops to get rid of both described effects, as with no sealed air volume, the only thing that can cause suck back or rebound is the bladder itself, which generally is quite soft.

Please note at this point: even when you get near no rebound with drilled shock tops even when leaving the shock shaft out all the way during the build, it still makes a difference, where the shock shaft is, when you screw the cap on.

When I run drilled shock tops, I always have the shocks haft stick out of the shock body by 6mm. This is about the neutral position when the car is running -> the bladder is neither being sucked in or pushed out. When you push the shock shaft further in during the build the dampening gets slightly softer , having it stick further out will stiffen up the dampening, even though you use the same shock oil! The difference is not to be left aside!

Well that was a longer entry than expected about drilled shock tops now :-) Sorry for the long read, but shocks are maximum important to make sure the car handles well.

I barely ever change the "setup" of my car (shims, camber link plates, roll bars) but rather mess about with rebound, shock oil and springs.. The balance of the car is always good. The aggression / feeling of the car can be set with shocks alone.

So long.

Martin.
Martin,

Can I ask two questions;

The shock caps that come with the cxl are already drilled twice but it looks like the top one might be blocked by the edge of the bladder - do you drill it again in the middle to allow for zero rebound?

Do you use double drilled shock tops with zero rebound on carpet as well?

Thanks,
Stephen
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Old 03-24-2012, 03:38 PM   #3440
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From a rebound perspective, the caps that come with the kits may as well not be drilled at all as they are sealed off by the bladder when built up.
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Old 03-24-2012, 09:52 PM   #3441
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Originally Posted by Big Luke View Post
Hi
Will the gear diffs I use in my mi4 lp fit the Mi4cxl?
Cheers
I thought the width for the LP and CXL diff holders are the same width.
Can someone confirm...
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Old 03-25-2012, 01:37 PM   #3442
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Originally Posted by olhipster1 View Post
I thought the width for the LP and CXL diff holders are the same width.
Can someone confirm...
They are the same since Mi3 maybe even sooner.
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Old 03-29-2012, 08:31 PM   #3443
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Does anyone know of a company that makes aluminum steering blocks/knuckles for the Mi4. I've broken 2 sets of the plastic ones, still getting the feel for this car and I hit too many walls apparently. The stock ones are just too thin around the tie rod ball joint with the 3 holes.

Thanks
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Old 03-29-2012, 10:08 PM   #3444
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Originally Posted by aarivers View Post
Does anyone know of a company that makes aluminum steering blocks/knuckles for the Mi4. I've broken 2 sets of the plastic ones, still getting the feel for this car and I hit too many walls apparently. The stock ones are just too thin around the tie rod ball joint with the 3 holes.

Thanks
You definitely must be doing something bad, we've sold quite a few cars even to new drivers and none managed to breat front steering blocks. When we had to replace them was only due to stripped thread but not due to breakage.
Are you using middle hole?
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Old 03-30-2012, 06:17 AM   #3445
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anyone here tried the shorty pack setup? got any pix to share? looking for a way to setup the ESC (SP GT2.0) behind the lipo.

Cheers!
Ryan
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Old 03-30-2012, 06:47 AM   #3446
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Originally Posted by lochness42 View Post
You definitely must be doing something bad, we've sold quite a few cars even to new drivers and none managed to breat front steering blocks. When we had to replace them was only due to stripped thread but not due to breakage.
Are you using middle hole?
Yeah I'm using the middle hole, and I have no clue how I'm breaking these things, I never once broke one on my X-Ray so breaking 3 has been a disappointment. They are breaking along the front inward hole, I have a servo saver on the car so I'm kinda at a loss. So anyone know of any alloy knuckles?
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Old 03-30-2012, 09:00 AM   #3447
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Originally Posted by aarivers View Post
Yeah I'm using the middle hole, and I have no clue how I'm breaking these things, I never once broke one on my X-Ray so breaking 3 has been a disappointment. They are breaking along the front inward hole, I have a servo saver on the car so I'm kinda at a loss. So anyone know of any alloy knuckles?
hmm...not sure...i've only stripped out one steering block where the pin sits in...
those darn things are like big freaking plastic bricks.
Try getting the Parma bumper thinks it's under $12 dollars, you will have to cut/shave a little foam where the bumper sits and a little inside wheel area.

In 3 months went thru only 1 chub and 1 steering block...both my fault.
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Old 03-30-2012, 09:39 AM   #3448
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I wonder if they had a bad batch of steering blocks. There was a short period where I went through 2 or 3 of them on the right front. First one I bumped into the tire on my real car while messing around in the driveway. Second one I bumped something during a race. Neither bump being anything dramatic compared to much larger crashesh I've had in the past.

-Mike
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Old 03-30-2012, 12:58 PM   #3449
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Originally Posted by aarivers View Post
Yeah I'm using the middle hole, and I have no clue how I'm breaking these things, I never once broke one on my X-Ray so breaking 3 has been a disappointment. They are breaking along the front inward hole, I have a servo saver on the car so I'm kinda at a loss. So anyone know of any alloy knuckles?
With servo saver? Damn, I or other drivers racing Mi4s here never used servo saver and all of us had bad crashes, wishbone or wishbone holder went first in all cases.

Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
I wonder if they had a bad batch of steering blocks. There was a short period where I went through 2 or 3 of them on the right front. First one I bumped into the tire on my real car while messing around in the driveway. Second one I bumped something during a race. Neither bump being anything dramatic compared to much larger crashesh I've had in the past.

-Mike
This sounds like good explanation why it's happening.
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Old 04-03-2012, 03:41 PM   #3450
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Interested in a brand new in box Mi4CXL at cheap price check here.

Schumacher Mi4CXL New in Box with Sorex Tires
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