R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-20-2012, 12:39 PM   #3421
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 537
Default

martin,

i tried to shim up the steering with the long posts, but the bulkhead was in the way. did you remove that part of the bulkhead to make the 2 tall posts fit? i used 3 mm tall shims on each side instead, and flipped the steering assembly over like you described. Also, is the Corrally motor good for non-boosted 17.5 stock racing? if it is, and if it is ROAR approved, it my be something i want to use at the REEDY Race this year.

thank you,

rich
gdcopbdcop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2012, 08:55 PM   #3422
Tech Fanatic
 
doriftu's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Malaysia
Posts: 838
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

i built the ball diff and followed the manual and Chris Grainger's video to tighten it until the cone washer flatten.

Now, the diff feels like there are notches when I turn them. Did I damaged the diff by over tighten it until the balls notched the plates?

Should I rebuilt with new plates?

I loosen the diff and the 'notch' feeling goes away... its there only when the diff is quite tight.
__________________
six-shifter.blogspot.com
supercharged-e36.blogspot.com
doriftu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2012, 09:12 PM   #3423
Tech Elite
 
olhipster1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Asgard
Posts: 3,995
Trader Rating: 98 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to olhipster1
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by doriftu View Post
i built the ball diff and followed the manual and Chris Grainger's video to tighten it until the cone washer flatten.

Now, the diff feels like there are notches when I turn them. Did I damaged the diff by over tighten it until the balls notched the plates?

Should I rebuilt with new plates?

I loosen the diff and the 'notch' feeling goes away... its there only when the diff is quite tight.
Diff should not be overtightened...ever...
you should be able to re-use...might need to rebuild and examine...

Did you sand/polish the plates (with very fine grit sand paper). this will make a huge difference for the quality of the diff.
once together...build up then install in car..
put car on a stand...and hold one wheel and break the diff in..a few minutes each side..this should help the diff ball seat into the plate...should score the plate slightly.
Run the car under load...then recheck diff.
With the Schumacher diffs ..make sure to install the set/locking screw correctly.

should last for quite a while after that.
__________________
everything is Cause and effect
every Action has a reaction.
"I drank too much wine - I must take a p!ss"
CAUSE and EFFECT
olhipster1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2012, 09:20 PM   #3424
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Woodinville, WA
Posts: 2,512
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

You only want the diff as tight as it needs to be to avoid slipping. I'm definitely not a ball diff expert, and will probably never go back to one since I have gear diffs now.

The suggestion I got from a fellow/former Schui driver who is handy with the wrenches, was to tighten it slowly, and check for slip gently(!) as you tighten it, and only tighten it until it stops slipping.

The only good ball diff I've ever had is the one that came in a used Mi4 I bought. It was extremely free with zero slip for about a year until it started getting crunchy. I've never been able to build one that well. That's why I jumped on the gear diffs and never looked back.

-Mike

EDIT: Josh Cyrul made an interesting post on diff building in the CEFX 2011 thread within the last few weeks. I think it was in relation to 1/12 scale, but a good diff is even more important there, so I'd think it could apply to TC's as well. I don't remember the particulars, but I do remember it seemed pretty backwards from most advice I've heard, involving intentionally scoring the rings.

EDIT2: This post: CEFX 2011

Last edited by grippgoat; 03-20-2012 at 09:33 PM.
grippgoat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2012, 09:44 PM   #3425
Tech Elite
 
olhipster1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Asgard
Posts: 3,995
Trader Rating: 98 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to olhipster1
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
= I don't remember the particulars, but I do remember it seemed pretty backwards from most advice I've heard, involving intentionally scoring the rings.

EDIT2: This post: CEFX 2011
I actually like to see the scoring in the diff ring...
once the diff balls aligned correctly it will make the smoother and last longer.

I have been trying two cars 1 with a gear diff
other with a diff.
the Diff actual feels the most neutral...the gear diff can get a little aggressive.
but I have been utilizing the Gear diff at this point due to ease of maintenance.
__________________
everything is Cause and effect
every Action has a reaction.
"I drank too much wine - I must take a p!ss"
CAUSE and EFFECT
olhipster1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2012, 05:21 AM   #3426
Tech Fanatic
 
doriftu's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Malaysia
Posts: 838
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by olhipster1 View Post
Diff should not be overtightened...ever...
you should be able to re-use...might need to rebuild and examine...

Did you sand/polish the plates (with very fine grit sand paper). this will make a huge difference for the quality of the diff.
once together...build up then install in car..
put car on a stand...and hold one wheel and break the diff in..a few minutes each side..this should help the diff ball seat into the plate...should score the plate slightly.
Run the car under load...then recheck diff.
With the Schumacher diffs ..make sure to install the set/locking screw correctly.

should last for quite a while after that.
Thanks... look like I need to get a new sets of diff plate and rebuilt the diff!

Is there diff covers to 'seal' the diff to prevent dirt? I run in quite dusty tracks...

Im new to Schumacher cars...
__________________
six-shifter.blogspot.com
supercharged-e36.blogspot.com
doriftu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2012, 08:42 AM   #3427
Tech Elite
 
olhipster1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Asgard
Posts: 3,995
Trader Rating: 98 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to olhipster1
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by doriftu View Post
Thanks... look like I need to get a new sets of diff plate and rebuilt the diff!

Is there diff covers to 'seal' the diff to prevent dirt? I run in quite dusty tracks...

Im new to Schumacher cars...
If you can get the gear diff.
The Schumacher gear diff is made by Spec R, the bonus is that the
gear diff comes with upgrade carbon gears...very nice fit....mine has been leak proof since day one...just follow the build guide.
__________________
everything is Cause and effect
every Action has a reaction.
"I drank too much wine - I must take a p!ss"
CAUSE and EFFECT
olhipster1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2012, 11:25 AM   #3428
Tech Master
 
Martin Hofer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Germany
Posts: 1,083
Send a message via ICQ to Martin Hofer
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gdcopbdcop View Post
martin,

i tried to shim up the steering with the long posts, but the bulkhead was in the way. did you remove that part of the bulkhead to make the 2 tall posts fit? i used 3 mm tall shims on each side instead, and flipped the steering assembly over like you described. Also, is the Corrally motor good for non-boosted 17.5 stock racing? if it is, and if it is ROAR approved, it my be something i want to use at the REEDY Race this year.

thank you,

rich
if you want to mount the steering on posts instead of on the bulkhead you obviously need to get rid of the bulkhead bits the plate mounts to as per kit.

the corally motor will never on earth be roar legal. Roar and Efra have similar rotor rules as far as I know and the corally motor breaks every one of them :-)
__________________
Schumacher Racing
Team GM-Racing
Team Sorex
Xenon Racing
Tonisport
Martin Hofer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2012, 03:48 PM   #3429
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 537
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Hofer View Post
if you want to mount the steering on posts instead of on the bulkhead you obviously need to get rid of the bulkhead bits the plate mounts to as per kit.

the corally motor will never on earth be roar legal. Roar and Efra have similar rotor rules as far as I know and the corally motor breaks every one of them :-)
martin,

thank you for the quick response
gdcopbdcop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2012, 08:16 PM   #3430
Tech Elite
 
GSM Storm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 2,272
Trader Rating: 112 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by doriftu View Post
i built the ball diff and followed the manual and Chris Grainger's video to tighten it until the cone washer flatten.

Now, the diff feels like there are notches when I turn them. Did I damaged the diff by over tighten it until the balls notched the plates?

Should I rebuilt with new plates?

I loosen the diff and the 'notch' feeling goes away... its there only when the diff is quite tight.
Was it the first time you put the diff together, if so check under the head of the bolt, I had one that had a small lump of steel on the radius this caused the diff to feel really bad.

Regards
Gary
__________________
Driver Gazza
Offroad - RC10 B64 (soon)
Vintage - Kyosho Tomahawk
Fantom Racing, JConcepts, Ace Hobbies/Reedy,
WTF, Plaig Bearings.
GSM Storm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2012, 09:14 PM   #3431
Tech Regular
 
rdlkgliders's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: So. Cal High Desert Hobbies
Posts: 458
Trader Rating: 21 (96%+)
Default

What is the difference between the mi4cx, mi4cxpro and mi4cxl. I can get the mi4cxpro for what seems to be a pretty god deal. I race outdoor asphalt usually short smallish tight track that is pretty loose ( rear traction at a prime)
Thanks
__________________
Serpent, KO Propo, Viper, Savox, ProTek
Team Waldorf Racing

Your not lapping me, you just caught up to me again!!!
rdlkgliders is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-22-2012, 09:53 PM   #3432
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 537
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rdlkgliders View Post
What is the difference between the mi4cx, mi4cxpro and mi4cxl. I can get the mi4cxpro for what seems to be a pretty god deal. I race outdoor asphalt usually short smallish tight track that is pretty loose ( rear traction at a prime)
Thanks

the MI-4CXL has a long top deck, and the short weave chassis. it also has different bulkheads, steering rack, and sway bar mounts.

all together, it adds up to way more steering, and more rear traction than you can even imagine. this adds up to more corner speed.

it is well worth the extra cost........
gdcopbdcop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2012, 04:34 AM   #3433
Tech Regular
 
rdlkgliders's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: So. Cal High Desert Hobbies
Posts: 458
Trader Rating: 21 (96%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gdcopbdcop View Post
the MI-4CXL has a long top deck, and the short weave chassis. it also has different bulkheads, steering rack, and sway bar mounts.

all together, it adds up to way more steering, and more rear traction than you can even imagine. this adds up to more corner speed.

it is well worth the extra cost........

Thx
__________________
Serpent, KO Propo, Viper, Savox, ProTek
Team Waldorf Racing

Your not lapping me, you just caught up to me again!!!
rdlkgliders is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2012, 08:57 AM   #3434
Tech Fanatic
 
doriftu's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Malaysia
Posts: 838
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Do the CVDs need anti wear grease?

Btw, the pins for the wheel hex in Step 20 are missing in my kit! both of them... sighhh...
__________________
six-shifter.blogspot.com
supercharged-e36.blogspot.com
doriftu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2012, 09:42 AM   #3435
Tech Elite
 
olhipster1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Asgard
Posts: 3,995
Trader Rating: 98 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to olhipster1
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by doriftu View Post
Do the CVDs need anti wear grease?

Btw, the pins for the wheel hex in Step 20 are missing in my kit! both of them... sighhh...
CVDs always need grease....that goes for all brand cars.
__________________
everything is Cause and effect
every Action has a reaction.
"I drank too much wine - I must take a p!ss"
CAUSE and EFFECT
olhipster1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Hot Bodies Cyclone Frank McKinney Electric On-Road 19762 07-26-2017 10:42 PM
Schumacher Corner meche Electric On-Road 27727 07-20-2015 07:38 PM
2009 SEQ Onroad Interclub LOSI123 Australian Racing 348 01-06-2010 10:08 AM
Racecraft TC Challange 2 Kylelim Singapore R/C Racers 82 08-01-2009 12:07 AM
Schumacher Mi3/3.5 parts and roller!!! Eastcoast13.5 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 21 07-19-2009 01:15 PM
Opinions on TC's hippie Electric On-Road 58 07-08-2009 10:14 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:52 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net