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Old 10-21-2011, 12:39 PM   #3121
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YEEEPPPP....
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Old 10-21-2011, 02:52 PM   #3122
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
I was wondering how the swaybars mounted with the long top deck. Looks like the holder is integrated, pretty slick! Does look like it could be a PITA getting to that lower screw, though. Maybe you can just take out the upper screw and go down through the hole? If not, I might finally have to get a 2mm ball-tip driver.

-Mike
Correct - this is the reason that the screw above is M4 - so that the hole is big enough to get a driver through to get down to the lower fixing screw. There is also a hole in the new alloy mount that allows you to get a driver to the grub screw for the roll bar.
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Old 10-22-2011, 01:44 PM   #3123
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Preliminary report:

I'm in a hurry, as I have to be somewhere. But so far, the long top deck does not exactly fit the Mi4LP. There's a difference in the shape of the bulkhead between the swaybar holder and the diff retaining post. However, it looks like 1.5-2mm of spacers should resolve the issue. I won't know for sure until later this evening when I get to fit it the rest of the way.

-Mike
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Old 10-22-2011, 03:12 PM   #3124
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What fdr should I be looking at for a smaller indoor carpet track 17.5 blinky? Thanks. I run about a 3.9 rite now and full endbell timing and temps are about 150. The stright is about 70ft long.
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Old 10-22-2011, 04:11 PM   #3125
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What fdr should I be looking at for a smaller indoor carpet track 17.5 blinky? Thanks. I run about a 3.9 rite now and full endbell timing and temps are about 150. The stright is about 70ft long.
4.25 should be ok
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Old 10-22-2011, 04:22 PM   #3126
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4.25 should be ok
Thanks, would that keep my top end and still have good rip? I think its 3.94 right now, and works really well, jw if a higher fdr like you listed will be even better?
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Old 10-22-2011, 05:05 PM   #3127
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Thanks, would that keep my top end and still have good rip? I think its 3.94 right now, and works really well, jw if a higher fdr like you listed will be even better?
Our club is something like 45x100 feet. It's pretty tight on the infield. Most of the 17.5 blinky drivers are in the 3.8 ballpark with two marks over 0 on Duo 3.

-Mike
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Old 10-23-2011, 01:33 AM   #3128
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Default Long Top Deck on Mi4LP

Here are some pics.

-Mike
Attached Thumbnails
Schumacher Mi4-cimg1533.jpg   Schumacher Mi4-cimg1534.jpg   Schumacher Mi4-cimg1535.jpg   Schumacher Mi4-cimg1536.jpg   Schumacher Mi4-cimg1537.jpg  

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Old 10-23-2011, 01:34 AM   #3129
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Default Long Top Deck on Mi4LP

Here are some more pics.

-Mike
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Schumacher Mi4-cimg1538.jpg   Schumacher Mi4-cimg1539.jpg   Schumacher Mi4-cimg1540.jpg   Schumacher Mi4-cimg1541.jpg   Schumacher Mi4-cimg1542.jpg  

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Old 10-23-2011, 01:39 AM   #3130
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Default Long Top Deck on Mi4LP

And one last pic, and some notes.

1) I needed 1.5mm of spacers between the mount and the bulkhead. I imagine that will become a PITA very, very fast when it comes time to pull the mounts to get the diff out.

2) The long screws that go through the top deck mount, through the 1.5mm of spacers, and into the bulkhead, are only getting 3 turns on the screw. That's 3 threads, and with a .5mm thread pitch, that's only about 1.5mm of depth, which doesn't seem like a good idea. I'd want to get longer screws before running this.

3) With the front gear diff, the front belt is reeeeeeeally close to the top deck. There's a tiny fraction of a mm of space, but I think as soon as the car runs and the belt moves around a bit, it'll rub. I could try moving both diff shims to the pully side to get a hair more room.

I didn't get a weight difference yet. I'll weight it before I take it off. I think I will sell it and go back to the stock setup.

-Mike
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Old 10-23-2011, 04:55 AM   #3131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
And one last pic, and some notes.

1) I needed 1.5mm of spacers between the mount and the bulkhead. I imagine that will become a PITA very, very fast when it comes time to pull the mounts to get the diff out.
Yeah CX has this bit raised - I've just checked it. Maybe you should try to glue them in place - I know it's a bit crazy idea but it will sort out disassembly issues

Quote:
2) The long screws that go through the top deck mount, through the 1.5mm of spacers, and into the bulkhead, are only getting 3 turns on the screw. That's 3 threads, and with a .5mm thread pitch, that's only about 1.5mm of depth, which doesn't seem like a good idea. I'd want to get longer screws before running this.
As I mentioned - these screws should be just fine with CX bulkheads as you've got longer used thread (that's difference as you don't have to use shims)

Quote:
3) With the front gear diff, the front belt is reeeeeeeally close to the top deck. There's a tiny fraction of a mm of space, but I think as soon as the car runs and the belt moves around a bit, it'll rub. I could try moving both diff shims to the pully side to get a hair more room.
Is it just close to top deck or new diff holders? If it's just topdeck - I would try to sand it a bit and space diff to the other side as much as possible.

All in all it requires some work to fit it on other Mi4s in the end. Thanks for letting us know what kind of problems one can encounter.
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Old 10-23-2011, 12:07 PM   #3132
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Hi. Ive just an MI4CX 2.5mm Softweave chassis on my mi4. Ive come to fit the servo and have hit a problem. The servo mounts on the CX are offset so the servo wouldnt sit square. I spaced the mounts out until my CX/LP (there the same) ones arrive, so that fixed that but then my next problem was that i cant get the servo far enough away from the centre of the caqr to allow me to fit my servo saver. Is there a servo saver that people with a cx use that fits nicely. My servo is a full size one. None of this would be a problem with a low profile one. Thanks for any help

Also I have been thinking of getting the twin point steering setup. How does this affect the steering??

Also I have seen some pics of cars with an 'O ring' Mod to the rear trans links. Doe sthis just give more flex on the rear end?

Last edited by scytherat; 10-23-2011 at 12:13 PM. Reason: Forgot something
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Old 10-23-2011, 06:49 PM   #3133
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Originally Posted by Blitzrockey View Post
What fdr should I be looking at for a smaller indoor carpet track 17.5 blinky? Thanks. I run about a 3.9 rite now and full endbell timing and temps are about 150. The stright is about 70ft long.
read the rctech thread about your motor-not all motors fall into the same fdr range
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Old 10-23-2011, 07:53 PM   #3134
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
And one last pic, and some notes.

1) I needed 1.5mm of spacers between the mount and the bulkhead. I imagine that will become a PITA very, very fast when it comes time to pull the mounts to get the diff out.

2) The long screws that go through the top deck mount, through the 1.5mm of spacers, and into the bulkhead, are only getting 3 turns on the screw. That's 3 threads, and with a .5mm thread pitch, that's only about 1.5mm of depth, which doesn't seem like a good idea. I'd want to get longer screws before running this.

3) With the front gear diff, the front belt is reeeeeeeally close to the top deck. There's a tiny fraction of a mm of space, but I think as soon as the car runs and the belt moves around a bit, it'll rub. I could try moving both diff shims to the pully side to get a hair more room.

I didn't get a weight difference yet. I'll weight it before I take it off. I think I will sell it and go back to the stock setup.

-Mike

The long top deck seems to weigh about 13g more than the standard LP setup. If you dremeled off the unneeded portions of the LP bulkheads, it might actually be lighter than the stock setup. I'm pretty surprised.

-Mike
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Old 10-23-2011, 08:50 PM   #3135
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13g holy cow, that could end up being the difference between 1st and 7th.
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