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Old 09-16-2011, 07:36 AM   #3031
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I'm looking for an asphalt setup for a HOT track. The current setup I'm running (including a gear diff and rack steering) is MONEY on a cool track but once the track temp goes above 110-120 the rear of the car becomes so loose the car is undrivable. Any changes I make seem to make the car either predictably loose all of the time or fine until the rear breaks loose and then it swaps ends almost instantly. As for the setup, I believe it is a version of Skypilots base setup from however many pages back. Thanks for ANY help...
ok this is what you do here-i run on hot asphalt (smooth parking lot) also, when my car becomes loose and undrivable-the fix is to go to harder tires...usually a very very hot day..

Last edited by poochy; 09-22-2011 at 10:39 AM.
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Old 09-21-2011, 08:58 AM   #3032
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Anyone...?
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Old 09-21-2011, 10:59 AM   #3033
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Anyone...?
tryi this one , this one is from my old MI4 but I'm also running it on my CX and itworks very well it should get you on the ball park.
Im using the alloy arm mounts but it works well with the stock plastic ones too.

http://www.racing-cars.com/images/Te...s_JS_speed.pdf
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Old 09-21-2011, 11:12 AM   #3034
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nice, since the cx is new, you must check every screw after each run....they tend to come loose when new, n may cause some tweaks at first but that will go away when the screws start to settle and not come loose.
thanks for the heads up. I haven't had any issues with screws backing out but I do put a very small amount of thread lock on the end of all screws going into metal just to be safe.

Three meets with this car so far, two on asphalt and one on carpet with three different setups and I am blown away with how well the Mi4cx handles. All that steering is taking a bit of getting used to but I like a twitchy car. Working on this car is a dream compared to my JRXS Type R. I can't wait to try out the SpecR diff this weekend. So far I've had zero brakes and no issues at all with build, parts quality or fitment.

For the carpet season should I go with the 2.5mm chassis or try the 2.5mm top deck first. Grip is very high at my track.
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Old 09-22-2011, 02:58 AM   #3035
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at ETS races the traction is unbelievably high! you traction roll in the very first practice run already!
I still used the soft 2.0 chassi and standard 2.0 topdeck because it's just better
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Old 09-22-2011, 04:36 AM   #3036
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@ Martin:

I thougth you use the soft-weave chassis also quite often.
How would you compare them? Are they worth the money?

Thx

BTW: your comments on this forum are highly appreciated
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Old 09-22-2011, 06:21 AM   #3037
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Anyone...?
RACER X, get harder tires when going from cool to hot (find out what tires the fast guys are running<---cant emphasize this enuff (and run brand new tires in the mains!)), do that first before changing the setup. guys, in my club, who ignore the effects of tires dont usually get a podium finish.
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Old 09-22-2011, 09:22 AM   #3038
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Thanks for the help.
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Old 09-24-2011, 03:17 PM   #3039
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spent all day at our indoor carpet track and ended up with this set up, it's 3/4 seconds faster per lap than my old set up.I forgot to mark it on the sheet but its for a high bite indoor carpet track ,



i loaded it from my Iphone , i can email it if you pm me your email address. I email it to Mark at Schumacher U.K. so it should be on the Schumacher site soon.
Attached Thumbnails
Schumacher Mi4-marcosj.-carpet-set-up.jpg  

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Old 09-25-2011, 01:46 AM   #3040
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Hello I just got a mi4lp and have some questions, I got the car second hand and am new to shumachers


1- If the front c hubs dont have any markings on them at all does this mean they are 4 degree

2- Do setup sheets tell you where the rear hub quick clips are in front or behind the rear hub ( cant see it on any setup sheets)

3- Are there long a-arms and short a-arms, how can I tell which ones are on my car, are there markings?

4- Without a setup station is there a way to tell what total rear toe is set for what mm spacers ( i run the std plastic hinge pin holders), As some setup sheets i have seen all say 1mm spacers at both front and rear of the rear plastic mounts to bulkhead and then have 2.5 degree, 3 degree and even 3.5 degree listed as total toe but dont mention a hub or anthing with toe in them etc... ??????

5- Is losi 35wt oil close to shumacher 35wt oil ( as i have tons of losi oil and i can not find a cross reference chart that has shumacher oil listed)

Also I must say the car is handling better than any other TC i have owned, and ive owned a lot of cars over the years, i race on tarmac low to med traction on sorex rubber.


cheers, Paul

Last edited by LOSI123; 09-25-2011 at 11:16 PM.
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Old 09-26-2011, 04:25 PM   #3041
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1- If the front c hubs dont have any markings on them at all does this mean they are 4 degree
Generally no one runs either the 2 or 6 degree blocks. THe blocks should have a 4L/4R marking on them. There are 3 different flex options on the front blocks with Flex/Medium/Standard blocks. Assume you have Standard4 degree blocks.

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2- Do setup sheets tell you where the rear hub quick clips are in front or behind the rear hub ( cant see it on any setup sheets)
No. The manual says to run the shim in the forward position but if you follow Hofers set up advice run half a mm of shim either side. This is what i do.

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3- Are there long a-arms and short a-arms, how can I tell which ones are on my car, are there markings?
Long arms are no longer produced. The only way to tell is to get some new ones and compare. The short arms will make the car more aggressive and IMO you should stick to the hard arms and let the chassis and the hubs do the flexing for you.

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4- Without a setup station is there a way to tell what total rear toe is set for what mm spacers ( i run the std plastic hinge pin holders), As some setup sheets i have seen all say 1mm spacers at both front and rear of the rear plastic mounts to bulkhead and then have 2.5 degree, 3 degree and even 3.5 degree listed as total toe but dont mention a hub or anthing with toe in them etc... ??????
Std blocks with 1mm of shim either end gives you 3.5 degrees. If you are serious about racing you really need to invest in a set up station.

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5- Is losi 35wt oil close to shumacher 35wt oil ( as i have tons of losi oil and i can not find a cross reference chart that has shumacher oil listed)
IMO shuie oil is a lot lighter than the losi stuff. 35 shuie would be like 30 or 27.5 losi. Comparing Garys 40wt on the weekend just gone it was more like the losi 35/32.5wt


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cheers, Paul
Cheers Benzaah
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Old 09-27-2011, 12:32 AM   #3042
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Generally no one runs either the 2 or 6 degree blocks. THe blocks should have a 4L/4R marking on them. There are 3 different flex options on the front blocks with Flex/Medium/Standard blocks. Assume you have Standard4 degree blocks.

No. The manual says to run the shim in the forward position but if you follow Hofers set up advice run half a mm of shim either side. This is what i do.

Long arms are no longer produced. The only way to tell is to get some new ones and compare. The short arms will make the car more aggressive and IMO you should stick to the hard arms and let the chassis and the hubs do the flexing for you.



Std blocks with 1mm of shim either end gives you 3.5 degrees. If you are serious about racing you really need to invest in a set up station.

No you don't need a setup station, just use a calculator and work out your toe-in. Doesn't cost you any money and apart from setting the toe-in ONCE! a setup system is pointless anyway


IMO shuie oil is a lot lighter than the losi stuff. 35 shuie would be like 30 or 27.5 losi. Comparing Garys 40wt on the weekend just gone it was more like the losi 35/32.5wt



Cheers Benzaah
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Old 09-27-2011, 04:42 AM   #3043
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thanks for the advise guys, so for rear toe is it every 1mm added to the front of the rear blocks reduces toe buy 1 degree?.

or if thats wrong what is the method on calculator?
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Old 09-27-2011, 04:46 AM   #3044
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thanks for the advise guys, so for rear toe is it every 1mm added to the front of the rear blocks reduces toe buy 1 degree?.

or if thats wrong what is the method on calculator?
Once you set the shims as per the kit instructions you should be just fine
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Old 09-28-2011, 07:17 AM   #3045
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My rear 1.2mm bar is tweaked very bad, what do you guys do to detweak sway bars as the link is not adustable, do you bend the bar
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