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Old 09-13-2011, 09:39 AM   #3016
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Originally Posted by skypilot View Post
let me just ask this,,, what is you hope to gain by having your car at 1380 vs 1425, or what is it that you think you will lose by having a heavy car.
I don't expect to go from Z finalist to an A but overall i expect less tyre ware, less tire overheating, quicker acceleration, quicker braking, less motor heat, less battery drain, less drive chain wear, less bottoming out, faster direction change and to be able to shift weight around to wear i want it. I know we are talking tiny amounts of everything but you will go quicker and i beliver every little helps.

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Please discuss this steering change please. Always keen to hear others thoughts on this area.
Going back to the original steering, first few laps it just felt strange, maybe a little oversteery mid corner but after that didn't really notice any difference. It just turned out to be faster for me overall that day at that track. Cant say for sure that it would be the same at all tracks but thats the best back too back example i had based on advice i didn't really believe at first so i'll probably be sticking with the original now.
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Old 09-13-2011, 10:24 AM   #3017
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I've gone the other way because with all the options like blocks and steering my car was heading towards nearly 80g over weight. My car has lost 55g now just by going back to the standard steering and plastic blocks. I really don't think i could get that back with titanium hinge pins or screws and i don't think i want to weaken it either which titanium will do.
Handling with out the alloy blocks is not as stable and grip is shifted forward but lap times at my local are the same. Maybe because less weight or maybe a livelier set-up works better at my local.
Steering wise i really liked the turn-in of the twin point steering and swore by it being quicker but go a little advice from a team driver about what he had found. Put the standard steering back in and did my quickest qualifier and quickest lap time, out of sixteen runs, with it straight away.



Pulleys are available on the schumacher site now and I've had a spy at the steering systems. They seem to be playing with narrowing the ball joint spacing of a simular system to the standard design but not sure who it is.
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Originally Posted by YZFAndy View Post
I don't expect to go from Z finalist to an A but overall i expect less tyre ware, less tire overheating, quicker acceleration, quicker braking, less motor heat, less battery drain, less drive chain wear, less bottoming out, faster direction change and to be able to shift weight around to wear i want it. I know we are talking tiny amounts of everything but you will go quicker and i beliver every little helps.



Going back to the original steering, first few laps it just felt strange, maybe a little oversteery mid corner but after that didn't really notice any difference. It just turned out to be faster for me overall that day at that track. Cant say for sure that it would be the .
I can't debate your beliefs, but your own posts seem to say going lighter you ran the same lap times, it was the setup changes that made you faster.
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Old 09-13-2011, 12:08 PM   #3018
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I can't even really compare my lap times 100% because my local track changes each week. All i can do is compare myself with the guy i'm normally closes to, which week after week our pace is almost identical. But thats not as easy to say as "my lap time are same".

Handling without the alloy blocks is not as good, which i guess is because the hinge pins sit 0.5mm higher, but i do believe the weight reduction makes up for it. If i could get the wieght the same with the handling of the alloy blocks the car would be quicker still. Thats not my believe its physics. Weight is not the be all and end all of handling but it does, or lack of it makes a car quicker.
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Old 09-13-2011, 09:02 PM   #3019
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its all realitive to personal experience I guess. Heavy cars have been good to me, so in my little world, all this trying to shave a couple of grams here and there is silly.

I'm in the same boat as you with the track changes with our outdoor program, but for us, its not car, setup, or weight, its who choses the right tire combo for that round.
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Old 09-14-2011, 01:42 AM   #3020
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Originally Posted by YZFAndy View Post
Going back to the original steering, first few laps it just felt strange, maybe a little oversteery mid corner but after that didn't really notice any difference. It just turned out to be faster for me overall that day at that track. Cant say for sure that it would be the same at all tracks but thats the best back too back example i had based on advice i didn't really believe at first so i'll probably be sticking with the original now.
How many mm of shim are you running on the steering post and what spacing are your arms shims???
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Old 09-14-2011, 04:03 AM   #3021
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Bought my Mi4 just before the SpecR promo bit DRC Speedshop is hooking me up anyway. Thank you Mike.
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:59 AM   #3022
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How many mm of shim are you running on the steering post and what spacing are your arms shims???
I'm running 4mm on the steering post but the ball studs i'm using sit a little shorter than standard. I would say its probably 3.5mm compared to standard.
And arm shims I'm not sure what you mean. If you mean steering knuckles for bump steer adjustment I'm not running any shimming on that ( standard being 1mm). In fact its probably -0.5mm compared to what you could do with the standard ballstuds again because of shorter ball stud hight.
If you mean pivot block spacing i've been running 2.5mm front width with 1.5mm arm drop spacing. Same with the plastics, but the best i can measure it the plastic are 0.5mm higher, meaning the hidge pin is 0.5mm higher above the chassis. Rear i was running with the alloys 1.5mm forward/rear and 0.5mm rear/rear both with 2.5mm drop. Again i think this sits the hinge pin 0.5mm lower or closer to the chassis than the plastic blocks. With plastic blocks i run 1mm shimming for the track width on all the blocks at the rear. But i really must measure this (or if someone could tell me!) because i think that gives you the same degree of toe in (3*) but actually makes the track width 0.5mm shorter, running 1.5/0.5 on the back with the alloy blocks.
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Old 09-14-2011, 03:33 PM   #3023
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Thanks for the information but I should have been more clear. What wheel base are you running? The arm spacing i meant was for wheel base as that effects the arm angle and ackerman most when comparing spacing for the steering links.
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Old 09-15-2011, 08:30 AM   #3024
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Front to back 2.5 / 1.5 .... 2/2
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Old 09-15-2011, 01:15 PM   #3025
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I'm looking for an asphalt setup for a HOT track. The current setup I'm running (including a gear diff and rack steering) is MONEY on a cool track but once the track temp goes above 110-120 the rear of the car becomes so loose the car is undrivable. Any changes I make seem to make the car either predictably loose all of the time or fine until the rear breaks loose and then it swaps ends almost instantly. As for the setup, I believe it is a version of Skypilots base setup from however many pages back. Thanks for ANY help...
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Old 09-15-2011, 04:19 PM   #3026
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Can anyone tell me if its posible to run the mi4cx front spool and drive shafts on the mi4lp? and what parts are needed if it can be fitted.
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Old 09-15-2011, 05:39 PM   #3027
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Can anyone tell me if its posible to run the mi4cx front spool and drive shafts on the mi4lp? and what parts are needed if it can be fitted.
yeah.. just buy the spool and the driveshafts.
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Old 09-15-2011, 06:43 PM   #3028
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yeah.. just buy the spool and the driveshafts.
And an extra pack of slider inserts.

-Mike
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Old 09-16-2011, 06:20 AM   #3029
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Originally Posted by BrodieMan View Post
Bought my Mi4 just before the SpecR promo bit DRC Speedshop is hooking me up anyway. Thank you Mike.
nice, since the cx is new, you must check every screw after each run....they tend to come loose when new, n may cause some tweaks at first but that will go away when the screws start to settle and not come loose.
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Old 09-16-2011, 06:24 AM   #3030
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Originally Posted by mojo tom View Post
Hello !

I'm considering the CX for this winter and 2012. First try at touring (mostly run offroad) this year.

I run a SX3 so I'm use to Schum design, still lots of parts and options available (chassis, top plate, big bores, gear diff, twin point steering, etc).

So far what options are needed and/or make the car better ?

Do you think this car is as good as a T3 or Yokomo ?

Best.
the cx is the fastest sedan ive ever owned-period (and i owned a T3<--fast also)
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