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Old 09-06-2011, 02:11 PM   #2971
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post


this is the best that I can do got it from a snap shot from my IPhone
(Sorry for the picture quote... I was afraid it wouldn't make sense without it.)

Did you mess up the quik klip settings? There should be 4mm total on each arm, but you've only got 2mm total.

-Mike
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Old 09-06-2011, 02:58 PM   #2972
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[QUOTE=Marcos.J;9622875]Asphalt or carpet? I ran the above setup with rp 40's on carpet with a sp6.5 and worked very well , I did however changed the front diff fluid to 500,000.

Hi Marcos

On Asphalt, car lacks grip all round, on Sorex tires the car is good with our current setup, not with the Sweep OG-Spec 40 tires.

Regards
Gary
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Old 09-06-2011, 04:19 PM   #2973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
(Sorry for the picture quote... I was afraid it wouldn't make sense without it.)

Did you mess up the quik klip settings? There should be 4mm total on each arm, but you've only got 2mm total.

-Mike
My bad 1.5/2.5 sorry lol
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Old 09-06-2011, 05:10 PM   #2974
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My bad 1.5/2.5 sorry lol
So... you moved weight back? For more steering?

-Mike
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Old 09-06-2011, 05:12 PM   #2975
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So... you moved weight back? For more steering?

-Mike
1.5 in front of arm 2.5 in the rear of the arm
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Old 09-07-2011, 01:20 AM   #2976
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Originally Posted by Marcos.J View Post
1.5 in front of arm 2.5 in the rear of the arm
I got that. That moves the arms forward, which moves weight back. I was asking if you did that for more steering?

-Mike
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Old 09-07-2011, 01:55 AM   #2977
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moveing the wishbone forward tends to give a bit more initial steering and might be better through sweepers on some tracks, however it usually creates huge understeer in hairpin turns / corners that tend to get tighter

This is why the team is running (front to back) 2.5/1.5/2/2 wheelspacing basically everywhere. Rearhubs spaced .5/.5

This seems to be the sweetspot of the car.
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Old 09-07-2011, 02:02 AM   #2978
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Rearhubs spaced .5/.5

This seems to be the sweetspot of the car.
What effect would this have on the car compared to 1mm front, 0 rear and vice versa?

A couple more questions if you dont mind?

Have you tested the 6 degree caster blocks with your anti dive set up in the front of the car?

Have you also tested using arm sweep on the car at all? My previous Xray liked 1.9 front 1.5 rear pivot block spacing and handled the tracks sweeper with ease. I have not bothered to test this on the CX yet.
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Old 09-07-2011, 02:23 AM   #2979
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What effect would this have on the car compared to 1mm front, 0 rear and vice versa?

A couple more questions if you dont mind?

Have you tested the 6 degree caster blocks with your anti dive set up in the front of the car?

Have you also tested using arm sweep on the car at all? My previous Xray liked 1.9 front 1.5 rear pivot block spacing and handled the tracks sweeper with ease. I have not bothered to test this on the CX yet.
I'm not running what you would call a lot of antidive. 0.3 almost makes no difference. It's just enough to keep the car from diving on brakes but little enough to no sacrifice steering.

I ususally don't use front inboard toe-out. It needs to suit the car and the developement seems to go away from that and just use staight front hingepins.

rearhub in the middle gives the best driveshaft angle. and the wheelbase is right then.
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Old 09-07-2011, 02:57 AM   #2980
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I got that. That moves the arms forward, which moves weight back. I was asking if you did that for more steering?

-Mike
Yes
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Old 09-07-2011, 02:58 AM   #2981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin Hofer View Post
moveing the wishbone forward tends to give a bit more initial steering and might be better through sweepers on some tracks, however it usually creates huge understeer in hairpin turns / corners that tend to get tighter

This is why the team is running (front to back) 2.5/1.5/2/2 wheelspacing basically everywhere. Rearhubs spaced .5/.5

This seems to be the sweetspot of the car.
I haven't encountered any understeer yet on this track, but I see what you mean
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Old 09-08-2011, 06:07 AM   #2982
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Just got the kit and am currently building the drive train.

I was wondering if you were able to fit in regular spur gears or I have to stick with Schumacher ones.

Thanks !
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Old 09-08-2011, 10:33 AM   #2983
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Just got the kit and am currently building the drive train.

I was wondering if you were able to fit in regular spur gears or I have to stick with Schumacher ones.

Thanks !
Stick with the Schumacher ones you can reach any fdr that you desire.

I made an adapter a while ago to be able to use any spur gear but I always ended up using the Schumacher ones.
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Old 09-08-2011, 12:09 PM   #2984
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for those with rear belt problems with the gear diff.......i rid this problem by adding a shim to the diff float area-this slightly improved the the center pulley alignment with the gear diff pulley-no more rear belt problems (4.5 motor)!

hope this helps somebody. also set the belt tension tight enuff so the rear belt teeth sinks into the gear diff pulley on normal hand rotation test. too tight causes extra heat.
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Old 09-08-2011, 12:13 PM   #2985
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for those with rear belt problems with the gear diff.......i rid this problem by adding a shim to the diff float area-this slightly improved the the center pulley alignment with the gear diff pulley-no more rear belt problems (4.5 motor)!

hope this helps somebody. also set the belt tension tight enuff so the rear belt teeth sinks into the gear diff pulley on normal hand rotation test. too tight causes extra heat.
Haven't encountered any problems running 5.5 but thanks for the info.
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