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Old 03-02-2011, 06:23 AM   #2536
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This sounds like the good old 'over ride height' or 'on blocks' confusion...

We are currently running CX's indoors on carpet at our club and I am running 5mm front, 4mm rear droop measured on blocks. But as always it depends on the amount of grip you have.

Chris Grainger talks about it around the 8/9minute mark in the video below;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-StH...layer_embedded
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Old 03-06-2011, 05:28 PM   #2537
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Couple of weeks later than I hoped, but full build and drive test of the Mi4CX now posted at Action R/C.

Build story here

Drive story here

Cheers
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Old 03-07-2011, 02:05 AM   #2538
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Nice work Scott!
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Old 03-07-2011, 08:41 PM   #2539
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I'll be curious to see what you think of the big bore shocks.

-Mike
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Old 03-08-2011, 10:15 PM   #2540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
I'll be curious to see what you think of the big bore shocks.

-Mike
I'm looking forward to trying them.
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Old 03-09-2011, 10:09 AM   #2541
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Anyone know how much extra weight they put on the car?
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Old 03-09-2011, 10:57 AM   #2542
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It depends on what parts and electronics you have. Also it depends on if you are trying to make weight or if you want it to be balanced too. I had to add 42g to make weight and get it balanced. I just checked it after changing tires and now I have to add another 40g to make weight.
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Old 03-09-2011, 11:31 AM   #2543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qcrc View Post
It depends on what parts and electronics you have. Also it depends on if you are trying to make weight or if you want it to be balanced too. I had to add 42g to make weight and get it balanced. I just checked it after changing tires and now I have to add another 40g to make weight.
You misunderstand my question. I wanted to know how much extra, over the standard shocks, the big bores weigh? They look substantially chunkier.

Also i see on the big bores that the springs reduced in diameter towards the bottom of the shock to fit everything; does this mean the springs are progressive?

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Old 03-09-2011, 04:51 PM   #2544
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Sorry Andy, I misunderstood too.
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Old 03-09-2011, 07:52 PM   #2545
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Big Bores question
Does anyone know if there is anything in the package besides the two assembled shocks? They are advertising them as working for other cars so I am hoping they would come with the bushings too.
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Old 03-09-2011, 11:45 PM   #2546
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Quote:
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Big Bores question
Does anyone know if there is anything in the package besides the two assembled shocks? They are advertising them as working for other cars so I am hoping they would come with the bushings too.
Nope, they are just assembled without any fitment stuff. So you have to get them separately.
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Old 03-10-2011, 08:20 AM   #2547
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From memory I think its around 20g heavier.
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Old 03-10-2011, 09:42 AM   #2548
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Hey everyone....

I have a slight problem that I am trying to sort out. I have been chewing through rear belts in boosted Mod with the standard black belts running high diff position tensioned 1 notch tighter than stock setting. It is getting quite frustrating as everytime a belt gets lunched, it takes out the center drive pulley and rounds off a bit on the diff pulley.

For those that run Mod, what kind of life span do you get out of the rear belt, and/or is there another belt which I can use to better the reliability?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 03-10-2011, 12:11 PM   #2549
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Hey everyone....

I have a slight problem that I am trying to sort out. I have been chewing through rear belts in boosted Mod with the standard black belts running high diff position tensioned 1 notch tighter than stock setting. It is getting quite frustrating as everytime a belt gets lunched, it takes out the center drive pulley and rounds off a bit on the diff pulley.

For those that run Mod, what kind of life span do you get out of the rear belt, and/or is there another belt which I can use to better the reliability?

Thanks in advance!
Zack,

In modified racing, I've had no problems racing 6 months with a rear belt. I usually replace them after 5-6 months or when they show signs of wear. Make sure the belt isn't rubbing anywhere. And also don't over-tighten your belts. After only a couple of months I have to tighten them up a notch on the eccentrics. Usually I start on the middle position or one notch looser.

Rgds,
Jonathan.
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Old 03-11-2011, 05:24 AM   #2550
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Zack,

In modified racing, I've had no problems racing 6 months with a rear belt. I usually replace them after 5-6 months or when they show signs of wear. Make sure the belt isn't rubbing anywhere. And also don't over-tighten your belts. After only a couple of months I have to tighten them up a notch on the eccentrics. Usually I start on the middle position or one notch looser.

Rgds,
Jonathan.
Jonathan,

Thanks for your reply. I will try running them on the normal settings first and tighten up as we go. The belts are not fraying or wearing abnormally, so I am hoping that it might just be dirt ingestion that is causing it. Will update as time goes.

Thanks again.
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