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Old 02-14-2011, 03:13 PM   #2491
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Originally Posted by Graham Kenny View Post
Im my eye's yes its a better car by far, the drivetrain is much more reliable and sturdy, the car itself is sharper, turns in better and seems to hold more corner speed. So its a YES go get one :-)
thanks, reordered it.
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Old 02-15-2011, 02:21 AM   #2492
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Cheers Martin, good to have you on board and congrats on the ETS win. Hopefully the first of many with the Mi4CX
think here the driver makes the difference!
winner with the yoko, also winner with the mi4...
congrats Martin!
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Old 02-15-2011, 04:15 AM   #2493
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Blog updated:

http://hofaaa.wordpress.com/
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Old 02-16-2011, 05:55 AM   #2494
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Default Mi4CX

Hey Martin, great start to the year...Good luck. Is there a reason you went to the 2 post steering system other than the stock center post? Just curious....
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Old 02-16-2011, 05:58 AM   #2495
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more aggressive and more onpower steering
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Old 02-16-2011, 08:10 AM   #2496
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Martin,

Welcome on board and congrats for the weekend... Couple of quick questions if you don't mind about your setup;

Can I ask what difference the washers under the link washers make? I have been running my car with 1mm under the front and 0mm under the rear - what does it do adding more?

Droop for carpet - you ran 6 front and 5.2 rear so would roughly 5 and 4.2 be what you would expect to run for indoor carpet?

Thanks
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Old 02-16-2011, 08:28 AM   #2497
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Hey all, thinking of picking up a Mi4CX for outdoor racing on medium to low grip asphalt (parking lot). Any recommendations on what extra things I would want for setup/spares? Looking at boosted 17.5.
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Old 02-16-2011, 08:37 AM   #2498
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I would look at getting the camber link plates, med flex c-hubs and possibly the med flex arms if the grip is low. Lots of people swear by the HPI springs as well. Swaw bar kits wouldn't hurt either.
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Old 02-16-2011, 05:53 PM   #2499
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Originally Posted by BlueEagle View Post
Hey all, thinking of picking up a Mi4CX for outdoor racing on medium to low grip asphalt (parking lot). Any recommendations on what extra things I would want for setup/spares? Looking at boosted 17.5.
I haven't driven a CX, just the LP. But here's what I've broken, in order of frequency:
- Rear Hinge Pin Pivot blocks... Get at least 1 spare set, or if you're sloppy, just go aluminum.
- Rear Inner Hinge Pin (same as front). Get at least 1 extra pair.
- Quik Klips (they tend to get lost when you break the rear arm / hinge pin block)
- Rear Arms (when running medium, haven't broken a carbon, but haven't run 'em as much)
- Driveshaft Blades
- CVD bones
- Servo arm (stripped stock one, and bent an aluminum one)... servo saver recommended
- Crappy stock aluminum turnbuckles
- Front C-Hub
- Rear Upright
- Wheel Bearings

-Mike
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Old 02-16-2011, 11:14 PM   #2500
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
I haven't driven a CX, just the LP. But here's what I've broken, in order of frequency:
- Rear Hinge Pin Pivot blocks... Get at least 1 spare set, or if you're sloppy, just go aluminum.
- Rear Inner Hinge Pin (same as front). Get at least 1 extra pair.
- Quik Klips (they tend to get lost when you break the rear arm / hinge pin block)
- Rear Arms (when running medium, haven't broken a carbon, but haven't run 'em as much)
- Driveshaft Blades
- CVD bones
- Servo arm (stripped stock one, and bent an aluminum one)... servo saver recommended
- Crappy stock aluminum turnbuckles
- Front C-Hub
- Rear Upright
- Wheel Bearings

-Mike

Can you provide references? U2231.....
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Old 02-16-2011, 11:51 PM   #2501
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Originally Posted by BlueEagle View Post
Hey all, thinking of picking up a Mi4CX for outdoor racing on medium to low grip asphalt (parking lot). Any recommendations on what extra things I would want for setup/spares? Looking at boosted 17.5.
I run 17.5 boosted, i've had my car 4 weeks and run 2 meets and Ive bashed it up pretty badly. Ive only have had to replace a bent rear hinge pin and heaps of screws including the Schumacher specific 2.5x4 screws that go into above mentioned hinge pins. Pain In the Ass if anything. Ive heard a lot of complaints about the bumper but my kit one is good not too soft not too hard. I wouldn't say its as tough as an xray but these cars can take a beating and ive had zero tweak issues from the chassis from any crashes ive had but found the bent hinge pin was wreaking havoc with my rear end. I've re ordered standard pins as ive heard that the TI ones will break instead of bend so anyone's thoughts on this is helpful. I am going to order the alloy pivot blocks as i want to mess with arm height anyway.

If i was you Id order some std castor blocks and keep all the arms kit as imo the medium arms create too much flex even on low grip asphalt. Low grip is all i have run the car on and With the 2mm chassis I think the graphite arms are the go but with a Thicker chassis it would be a different story. Id order the rear links and dont worry about the sway bars initially. Having messed with them a bit ive ended up back at std and the car is awesome with only a few shims added here and there. Youll need the 3131 shim kit and some narrow wheel hexs AS its mentioned earlier in this thread, the narrow hexs with either 2 or 2.5mm of shim on the front arms is best set up everywhere. I feel like ive wasted money on the medium arms and the sway bar kits but they will come in handy one day... I'd order most of the speed packs with screws, shims and washers etc.

If your serious about your racing youll have a list of spares you like to carry like belts, arms etc. Its almost easier to buy a second kit. I wish I could order a kit with a 2.5mm chassis and top deck with all graphite arms

Id also encourage anyone to rebuild their diff with the Hudy diff grease as I finally have what id call a butter smooth diff. The schuie grease builds a very stiff diff that I don't like.
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Old 02-17-2011, 12:34 AM   #2502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoyle View Post
Martin,

Welcome on board and congrats for the weekend... Couple of quick questions if you don't mind about your setup;

Can I ask what difference the washers under the link washers make? I have been running my car with 1mm under the front and 0mm under the rear - what does it do adding more?

Droop for carpet - you ran 6 front and 5.2 rear so would roughly 5 and 4.2 be what you would expect to run for indoor carpet?

Thanks
There's just a certain window the geometry of a car should be in. And to be in that window which is front camberlinks exactly parallel to the wishbone, rear 0.5 lower on the inside, you have to run 2/1.5 if you run the rollcenter like I did or 2.5/2 if you run standard blocks OR 2.5/1.5 if the car is a bit too edgy to drive.

I pretty much run the setup VERY! similar to the setup I ran on the yokomo, as well as on Alex Stocker's HB.
There is a "basic setup" that seems to work on any car. Atleast this is what I found.
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Old 02-17-2011, 12:35 AM   #2503
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forgot to add that I ran narrow front hexes!
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Old 02-17-2011, 09:44 AM   #2504
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Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post

Id also encourage anyone to rebuild their diff with the Hudy diff grease as I finally have what id call a butter smooth diff. The schuie grease builds a very stiff diff that I don't like.
sorry, going to have to disagree on this one. the xray ,hotbodies ,tamiya guys around here are bugging me for schuie diff grease.

I have lots of schuie containers of grease, some are thick some are thin, the thick ones will get thin if you stir them.
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Old 02-17-2011, 11:40 AM   #2505
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I concur. I use Schuie's diff grease on every diff I build, including on my 1/12th-scales. And have for the last 6-7 years. I haven't found a grease that rivals it yet. And as Ritchie has mentioned, we've converted several drivers to the stuff Lemme build your diff....you'll never go back buddy
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