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Old 02-06-2011, 03:11 PM   #2461
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Has anyone tried the litemodz CVDs yet? I'm looking to get rid of the nasty chatter from the front end.
Don't wast your time on them. They fall apart easily and have not been fixed despite being on their 3/4 revision no matter what some people might be saying . They wear the fastest i have ever seen a driveshaft wear. The company has appalling service. They don't dispatch stuff for weeks, even months in some cases and take no notice of customers asking, well anything!

Just buy the new schumacher steel shafts and spool or diff cups. Very little chatter and only on full lock( which far exceeds the cvd's limits). No sign of wear after a lot of practice and three/four meetings now. And the axles fit the bearings so 1.5 degrees of camber is that and not +/- 2degres of 1.5degress like some other companies.
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Old 02-06-2011, 09:40 PM   #2462
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Has anyone tried the litemodz CVDs yet? I'm looking to get rid of the nasty chatter from the front end.
Mine fell apart about 1/3 of the way through my first run. I still need to send them pictures and see if I can get a refund.

I just rebuilt my diff. I sanded the diff rings on 1500, like Chris's video, but I should have used a fresh piece of paper for the 2nd ring. I also used new balls, but kept the old spring washers. I also washed and scrubbed the pulley twice. I think I tightened it the way the video recommended... screw it in until it just engages the springs, then another half turn. It's much, much better. Nice and smooth, and doesn't slip. It still feels a little "thick" from all the grease, but it's smooth.

-Mike
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Old 02-07-2011, 05:21 AM   #2463
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First serious run with the CX on the weekend and its very good considering we are breaking in a new surface coat on the track. Couple of questions.

I have a problem with the rear suspension. I am running the second hole from center on the shock tower and I wanted to run the shocks in the outside hole on the arm. With this configuration the ball cup on the end of the shock fouls the much more rim's I am using. My options are using another companies shorter ball end and cups and changing the geometry of the rear suspension or investing more money in Sorex tires on speed mind rims which do not foul and i cant really afford.

Would it be advisable to possibly take out 1mm of shim from the rear bulk head and add 1mm shim to the wheel hex to get me a little more clearance? Would this adversely affect my handling as it would shorten my camber links and possibly reduce rer toe i na touch. I was doing hand brake turns unexpectedly with the wheels rubbing and leaving the arm hole the same position and leaning the shock all the way in did not have the desired affect. Basically we are looking for a roll center change without investing in the alloy blocks to drop the arms in the rear. Any help is appreciated. Regards Benzaah.
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Old 02-07-2011, 07:27 AM   #2464
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I've not touched the diff on my MI4LP since I built it last August, and it is still silky smooth with zero slip.
Qualified 5th yesterday (after setting a new PB) and finished 2nd and 3rd in the two 13.5 finals, and that is running on used RP30 tyres someone threw away a few years back.
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Old 02-10-2011, 12:24 PM   #2465
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http://www.redrc.net/2011/02/martin-...to-schumacher/

Nice!
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Old 02-10-2011, 02:50 PM   #2466
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+1
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Old 02-11-2011, 02:19 AM   #2467
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Has anyone looked at the Spec-R gear diff range and found a diff that will take little work to fit to the Mi4-LP? I've seen a TOP diff fitted but takes to much work.
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Old 02-11-2011, 09:21 AM   #2468
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Has anyone looked at the Spec-R gear diff range and found a diff that will take little work to fit to the Mi4-LP? I've seen a TOP diff fitted but takes to much work.
All the tamiya and xray diffs have like a 20-21mm bearing spacing, with the case going all the way out to the bearing on one side. The Schui diff is like 16mm bearing spacing. You could get a wider bearing spacing by flipping the eccentrics, but it still wouldn't clear the case on the diff, and I think the pulley might be in the wrong place. I was actually wondering about the Top u-pro one, because it's so much more compact.

Where did you see the Top one done? Any online how-to's?

-Mike
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Old 02-11-2011, 03:11 PM   #2469
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
Where did you see the Top one done? Any online how-to's?
-Mike
A local racer did the mod. I can no longer remember how he did it, but it is starting to look like I need to find out again.
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Old 02-11-2011, 03:21 PM   #2470
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Originally Posted by WildManDriving View Post
A local racer did the mod. I can no longer remember how he did it, but it is starting to look like I need to find out again.
That would be nice. Please share details if you get them.

After I posted, I realize that you can't even flip the eccentrics, because if you did, the bearings would slide out. :/

-Mike
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Old 02-11-2011, 05:57 PM   #2471
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Spec R Tamiya Gear diff, With tamiya shafts and tamiya front pulley, a fella in the UK done this mod last year

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Old 02-11-2011, 07:44 PM   #2472
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Spec R Tamiya Gear diff, With tamiya shafts and tamiya front pulley, a fella in the UK done this mod last year

Thats a real Bitsa. Xray ball cups and tie rods and looks like xray sway bars as well.

Cant wait for my next session with this car tomorrow.
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Old 02-11-2011, 09:00 PM   #2473
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I ran a Top gear diff in mine. Had to grind some ofthe casing away to make it fit. Bolted a schuie pully to it.
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Old 02-11-2011, 09:25 PM   #2474
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Originally Posted by Graham Kenny View Post
Spec R Tamiya Gear diff, With tamiya shafts and tamiya front pulley, a fella in the UK done this mod last year

Is that the TA-05 Spec-R gear diff? Do you know what mods need to be done?

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I ran a Top gear diff in mine. Had to grind some ofthe casing away to make it fit. Bolted a schuie pully to it.
That was it, turn down the casing and change pulley. Did it work well for you? Did you find what weight (cst) oil worked best?
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Old 02-12-2011, 07:11 AM   #2475
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Im not sure what diff it is other than a Spec-R The front Spool pulley had to be changed too which changed the internal ratio, and i dont think there Xray ball studs, there just drilled out schumacher ones
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