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Old 01-18-2011, 08:27 AM   #2416
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My Parcel has cleared customs. Going to be a busy weekend building
It'll be a nice build... you'll enjoy it!
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Old 01-21-2011, 05:20 AM   #2417
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Hey Guys, Question,
Should i rebuild the Drive shafts as they look like they are already thread locked from the factory?
Also, after reading the manual i cant find the following in the spare parts list. SCHU3704 Schumacher F3x8G Thrust Bearing w/SiNi Balls. I ordered this part after reading it was a must have. If this is no good can someone point me in the direction of the ceramic thrust for the new Diff? And are the tungsten balls better than the ceramics?

Thanks in advance, Benzaah.
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Old 01-21-2011, 06:58 AM   #2418
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Hey Guys, Build is going well and those Videos on You tube have helped and hoping there are more coming soon. Will have my first run on sunday so still fiddling with the car. A couple of queries or things ive found odd compared to the Xrays ive been running.
Should i rebuild the Drive shafts as they look like they are already thread locked from the factory?
The kwiklips on the suspension arms. Do people just use Alu shims or do the pins not like them?
And lastly after reading the manual i cant find the following in the spare parts list. SCHU3704 Schumacher F3x8G Thrust Bearing w/SiNi Balls. I ordered this part after reading it was a must have. If this is no good can someone point me in the direction of the ceramic thrust for the new Diff? And are the tungsten balls better than the ceramics?

Thanks in advance, Benzaah.
Hey mate,

The driveshafts are good. I haven't touched mine and 4 meets later still good. Use the kwikclips. They work very well. Just remember to check them every other run or so by rocking the arms to and fro to see if they are still there. Use the standard thrusts in the kit till the U3704 thrust bearings arrive. I used the SiNi 3x8 U3704 thrusts only because I had them from the Cougar spares box. They are much better than the XRay thust bearings, and you know how long they last. Most of the XRay guys here are using the Schuie ones. Ceramics are better.

Hope this helps.
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Old 01-21-2011, 08:00 AM   #2419
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Originally Posted by Benzaah View Post
Hey Guys, Question,
Should i rebuild the Drive shafts as they look like they are already thread locked from the factory?
Also, after reading the manual i cant find the following in the spare parts list. SCHU3704 Schumacher F3x8G Thrust Bearing w/SiNi Balls. I ordered this part after reading it was a must have. If this is no good can someone point me in the direction of the ceramic thrust for the new Diff? And are the tungsten balls better than the ceramics?

Thanks in advance, Benzaah.
I would recommend you rebuild the driveshafts or at the very least pack some grease in there. No driveshaft will last long without grease.
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Old 01-21-2011, 08:23 AM   #2420
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I took mine apart to grease them up and make sure they were tight which they were. One was so tight (seemed like it had permanent thread lock on it) It striped the grub screw, so not sure what to do about that.
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Old 01-21-2011, 09:09 AM   #2421
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I would recommend you rebuild the driveshafts or at the very least pack some grease in there. No driveshaft will last long without grease.
Hi John, what grease do you use in the drive shafts and how often do you re - grease them ? Thanks
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Old 01-21-2011, 09:21 PM   #2422
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I took mine apart to grease them up and make sure they were tight which they were. One was so tight (seemed like it had permanent thread lock on it) It striped the grub screw, so not sure what to do about that.
Hey, Did you get the drives apart or not? I tried to get mines apart but couldnt and fortunately I did not strip my grub screw out. I would have thought it would come un done lightly if they had not thread locked it and meant you to rebuild it. It woulnd't give so ive just left it and greased it up. The Much more joint lube is great for Drive shafts. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ade-Joint-Lube Only downside is Its a bit messy as it flings out everywhere.
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Old 01-22-2011, 02:18 AM   #2423
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I do not use lube or grease on the shafts at all as they attract a lot of dirt and grit that eventually wears the shaft out a lot quicker.
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Old 01-22-2011, 03:12 AM   #2424
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Hey, Did you get the drives apart or not? I tried to get mines apart but couldnt and fortunately I did not strip my grub screw out.
Got them apart, apart from one and don't know what to do about that. Guess i'll just buy more and that'll be a spare. They must have used permanent thread lock on them. Only thing i can recommend doing is boil them or soak them in petrol to free up the thread lock or something like that.

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I do not use lube or grease on the shafts at all as they attract a lot of dirt and grit that eventually wears the shaft out a lot quicker.
This is what i started doing because of dirt but ware was very high and drive torque was locking the drive and noticeably the car wasn't as nice to drive or as quick, you could even feel heat on the joints. High speed metal against high speed metal is never going to work well.
Now i just use black molly grease mixed with some ZX1 . Use it just so it coats the surface and it wont attarct too much dirt. I tend to find dirt only collects on the non contract faces anyway.
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Old 01-22-2011, 06:03 AM   #2425
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I had the same problem with pre-built uni's on another car. I was told to heat them up. I did this on a gas stove top and this did the trick. Take care because it all gets pretty hot.
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Old 01-22-2011, 11:22 AM   #2426
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Well I've got my first outing with CX done.
Ran basically car out of the box with Chris Ashton's Ardent setup which uses stiffer rollbar. As I built car yesterday and didn't have much time today during race as I did 3 classes and was more than busy, I was really impressed how car went. It felt awesome on track and my only issue was when I tried to steer really hard it traction rolled (I guess, that thicker chassis would help with that).
Oh and result was - win!
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Old 01-22-2011, 01:13 PM   #2427
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when I tried to steer really hard it traction rolled (I guess, that thicker chassis would help with that).
Oh and result was - win!
I'm guessing if it's built out of the box kit standard you have used the Xflex front hubs which it comes with? If so use the standards or the mediums and its much better.

I'm still using kit chassis but with a 2.5mm top deck and it feels plenty stiff enough that way for a cheaper quick fix.
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Old 01-23-2011, 02:49 AM   #2428
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I have done a build review on the Mi4CX over on my web site;

http://www.rcracingni.co.uk

Hopefully it will tempt some of you to head towards the CX - great car.

I did, after running the car, end up going to the Medium hub carriers and thought the car felt safer (I never had any problems with grip rolling but just felt that the XFlex ones were too much steering wise).
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Old 01-23-2011, 03:58 AM   #2429
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Originally Posted by YZFAndy View Post
I'm guessing if it's built out of the box kit standard you have used the Xflex front hubs which it comes with? If so use the standards or the mediums and its much better.

I'm still using kit chassis but with a 2.5mm top deck and it feels plenty stiff enough that way for a cheaper quick fix.
Yeah you're right, forgot to check that. I thought that it's medium flex as in LP. As I said I built it in hurry. Thank you very much.
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Old 01-23-2011, 06:16 PM   #2430
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I had my first run with the CX on Sunday. The meet was at a track i dont normally run at so i spent some time getting used to the track again but overall im very happy with the new car. Plus I didnt want to push it too hard being a new car and having never driven a Shuie before. One thing I am not happy with the amount of play in the steering. I am going to have to get some very thin shims to get this play out as it seems its all in the shaft and bearing for the Alloy steering housing. Other than that meet was almost flawless with the car. I will have to change my driving style a bit to suit this chassis though as it has so much corner speed .

In hindsight I wish i had have started with the kit set up instead of running an LP set up that was suggested. The kit castor blocks have way too much flex in them for my liking and I will now change to the different front castor blocks especially after reading others thoughts on this cars steering. I found it would steer about half way through the turn and then dig in and feel as though it was going to traction roll and i would have to flick the steering to hold my line.

My only sore point was a massive rock i picked up on the track which popped off the rear diff fence and flipped and chewed out my rear belt I am going to pull the car apart and rebuild everything now for next session.


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I have done a build review on the Mi4CX over on my web site;

http://www.rcracingni.co.uk

Hopefully it will tempt some of you to head towards the CX - great car.

I did, after running the car, end up going to the Medium hub carriers and thought the car felt safer (I never had any problems with grip rolling but just felt that the XFlex ones were too much steering wise).
Hi, In your build you mention "if you are going to do it you need washers with a 1/8th inch hole". Which brand of shims did you find with these size holes? thanks Benzaah
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