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Old 01-09-2011, 10:18 AM   #2401
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Todays 2 finals (outdoors on damp track)
1st 1st Xray 009
2nd 3rd (me) M14LP
3rd 2nd Cyclone Moore Speed

No X3 or Mi4CX in the main A finals, as they had too much front end grip
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Old 01-09-2011, 12:52 PM   #2402
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No X3 or Mi4CX in the main A finals, as they had too much front end grip
I wouldn't say the cx has too much front end grip. Probably more likely to be they haven't got to grips with setting the car up yet as it is defiantly a different drive to the lp.

One thing i have notice that is different between the two is that the lp used to understeer going into a corner that had little grip and then started to oversteer as the grip came up. The cx seem to stay handling the same no matter what the grip level.
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Old 01-09-2011, 01:24 PM   #2403
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My son and I have built 2 of the CX's, both went together well, one tip is to put a small amount of oil or spit onto the "O" rings on the diff outdrives to help the slider insert slip over the "O" ring and lock in position. As for option parts we run the twin steering assembly and HPI silver springs.

Regards
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Thanks. What's the advantage of the twin steering compare to the stock one ?
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Old 01-09-2011, 01:24 PM   #2404
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Originally Posted by YZFAndy View Post
One thing i have notice that is different between the two is that the lp used to understeer going into a corner that had little grip and then started to oversteer as the grip came up. The cx seem to stay handling the same no matter what the grip level.
I had that at first, but then I changed the akermann spacers from 3mm to 4mm on the alloy centre steering hub ball studs, this gave better steering and stayed better balanced, so have never gone back.
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Old 01-10-2011, 12:17 AM   #2405
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Can someone tell me which transmission links come in the Kit? Or a list of kit items somewhere as the exploded diagram i have and manual make no mention of which items are in the bags you build the kit with.
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Old 01-10-2011, 01:50 AM   #2406
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Kit standard links are 2.4mm
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Old 01-10-2011, 01:51 AM   #2407
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Can someone tell me which transmission links come in the Kit? Or a list of kit items somewhere as the exploded diagram i have and manual make no mention of which items are in the bags you build the kit with.
Hi Ben
2.4mm come in the kit, we have tried the 1.4mm ones but have allways ran the kit ones.

Regards
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Old 01-10-2011, 04:01 AM   #2408
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Hi i need to get new front & rear driveshafts for my MI4LP.

been using the TIR but there bent bad !

will i be better getting the ones used on the MI4CX ?

Are they better than litemodz latest design and stronger ?

would i have to buy a new spool or just new outdrives on my mi4lp schumacher spool ?
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Old 01-10-2011, 09:27 AM   #2409
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Thanks. What's the advantage of the twin steering compare to the stock one ?
I wouldn't look at the twin point steering as an upgrade but more of an alternative. It basically provides different akerman rates. From what i read it suits some people an not others.

Quote:
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Hi i need to get new front & rear driveshafts for my MI4LP.

been using the TIR but there bent bad !

will i be better getting the ones used on the MI4CX ?

Are they better than litemodz latest design and stronger ?

would i have to buy a new spool or just new outdrives on my mi4lp schumacher spool ?
The new CX steel drive shafts and spool are excellent. Very little wheel chatter and only then at full lock. Very hard wearing, not showing any signs of ware after my last meeting. When you compare that to the Litemodz stuff i was only getting three decent meetings out of them before becoming very sloppy.
What you need is driveshafts, spool, slider rings and slider inserts. There is a spool complete kit on the schumacher site for about £33. Then you would just need drive shafts. The new spool is one piece with slider rings and inserts so you can't just bolt the different cups on.
A little more expensive to start fresh but think performance wise, reliability and rate of wear will pay for themselves. Not to mention Schumacher know how to treat customers.
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Old 01-11-2011, 04:32 AM   #2410
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I was speaking with Robin schumacher on sunday at ardent raceway.

yeah my tir stuff just doesnt last and seems to bend so easilly.

I just want somethink which is quite strong and will last me the rest of the indoor season !
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Old 01-12-2011, 08:46 AM   #2411
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Couple of noob questions I was wondering someone could help me with. For Xmas I bought myself a Mi4CX which is my first proper owned from new kit (I've only ever bought second hand before).

I started the build last night and everything so far has gone pretty well except the layshaft which has a small bit of movement (from left to right when viewed from above) in it after I've tightened up the two retaining bolts, is this to be expected? The spur gear moves freely and the drive train is very smooth just wondering if the small (around 2mm) movement is correct?

Also what effect does having the spool and diff in the “high” and “low” position make to the car and tied in with this how much tension is it good to have on the belts? My 415 runs them quite loose is this advisable for the Mi4 as well?
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Old 01-12-2011, 11:13 AM   #2412
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1mm side to side float on the spur gear is right. Measure it as you're saying you have 2mm because it probably feels more than it is.

Running different diff hight gives you different grip leaves to over simplify it.
I found
HIGH – car will stay flatter and have more responsive feel.
LOW – car will roll more and keep car in turn longer, increasing on-power steering
Low front diff, high rear – maximum total steering
High front diff, low rear – lowest total steering
Low front, low rear – less overall traction
High front, high rear – more overall traction

Best experiment with it yourself because peoples opinion on how it effect handling differs. Some believe that running the diff low will lower centre of gravity and make handling better. I tend to believe the differences are more to do with the effect of "drive jacking" on the suspension and how straghit the drive axles are compared to suspension and CofG.

Generally 95% of people run the diff hight low.

As for belt tension i see people running belts way too lose. They don't just need to be tight enough not to jump but also not to have too much slack and cause jolting on and off power. Just run them on the dot on the eccentrics for the first few meetings.
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Old 01-12-2011, 11:36 AM   #2413
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Thanks YZFAndy appreciate the advice. I will try and take a measurement of movement and see how it comes out, you may well be correct with me thinking the amount is greater than it is. Thanks for the info on diff/spool settings also.
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Old 01-12-2011, 01:19 PM   #2414
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My Parcel has cleared customs. Going to be a busy weekend building
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Old 01-18-2011, 07:00 AM   #2415
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If you haven't seen them we've been posting loads of helpful set up video's for the Mi4 on our YouTube Channel. Be sure to take a look!

http://www.youtube.com/user/SchumacherRacingTV
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