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Old 10-16-2010, 02:10 AM   #2266
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Yes, a wider car reduces corner traction, aiding in stability.
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Old 10-16-2010, 11:01 AM   #2267
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How about them Apples?

Anyway, I would love to see a better sway bar solution. It seems that my sway bar ball studs and ballcups are too tight, as well as the sway bar not having the torque it should due to the narrow bulkhead mounting. That and I do know I need more corner speed in general, but most likely that's 90% driver as I am no longer a regular at any club currently.
Hi sorry to butt in on your thread. I ran this car for some time and used this item as I had a problem with the swaybar ballcups binding

PT-091040 Ball Head Reamer for 4.3mm

Its an adjustable reamer made by TOP and I found it worked superbly
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Old 10-16-2010, 12:02 PM   #2268
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Hi sorry to butt in on your thread. I ran this car for some time and used this item as I had a problem with the swaybar ballcups binding

PT-091040 Ball Head Reamer for 4.3mm

Its an adjustable reamer made by TOP and I found it worked superbly
I just squeezed them with a set of pliers until they loosened up.

-Mike
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Old 10-16-2010, 12:15 PM   #2269
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To free up the rollbars, take a ballstud, put it into your dremel and attach the rollbar link then spin the dremel at low-mid speed and it should free up the ballcup.
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Old 10-17-2010, 04:20 PM   #2270
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Default Update.

Thanks everyone for your setup suggestions..

I decided to change the shock oil up to 40 wt front and rear. However, I still notice slighting rolling action from the car while taking sharp turns.. Just very slight.. But I've made up some shocks with 55 wt, and 60 wt for the front. But I haven't tried them yet.. Also what about switching to CF suspension arms? Any thoughts? I see some guys running the CF while running rubber tires.. Oh what about those chassis ribs connecting the motor mount to the rear bulkhead? Should I stiffen them from a 2.4 to higher or lower?

Also, I'm running 2 mm droop front and rear.. Speedmind 28R's.. I use to glue the sidewalls and that did make a huge improvement.. I might resort to that.

Should I look into running Tamiya springs? i.e Whites on the front and Blues on the rear? Or stick with the Greens and Blues?

What I'm trying to accomplish, is to have a car that will run nice and flat in and out of corners.. Now I don't mind have the back end a little loose, I can manage that.

Anymore tips would be great.
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Old 10-18-2010, 08:52 AM   #2271
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Anymore tips would be great.
Yes go back and read the suggestions people have put again. Just glueing the side walls on the tyres isn't going to be enough, nor is changing shock oil by only 5wt. You're trying to stop weight transference from being too rapid, and like i said before it needs to be 45-50 wt. And if your going to buy any springs make them either Hpi pro's or Hara's. Schuie springs are ok but they are progressive meaning the get stiffer the more they are compressed. The hpi's and Haras are linear and will stay the same strength as they are compressed.

Carbon arms and the new 1mm shorter style are a must for carpet and generally removing as much flex as you can frees the car up on high grip carpet.
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Old 10-18-2010, 09:27 AM   #2272
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Edward, you are running this setup? http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/schu...bberTires.html

With what changes? Body? And also do you have the 1gr. "link mount" on the back?

Me and Kenny don't run the car anymore, but we have a local we've been working with to get up to speed. Off hand, he is running that setup with only the following changes: Inside hole in the front arm with the stock sway bar up front. No arm sweep, so 2mm front/back. And 1.0mm front droop, 1.5mm rear droop.

Your traction rolling is coming from green/blue springs as far as I can see.
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Old 10-18-2010, 10:54 AM   #2273
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The car handle's great, I just need to refine the setup to make it a little more stable. Thanks Andy for the info on the springs, I'll have to look into buying some Hara springs.

The setup is exactly the same, but the only changes are 40wt f/r, LTC-R body, CS-28's, droop is 2 mm f/r., 1 gr in the rear . The car has been balanced using digital scales, so 50/50 F/R, 50/50 L/R.

I took a majority of the rolling action out by adding stiffer springs, when I was running blue and white it was worse off.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 10-21-2010, 02:31 PM   #2274
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Already we have photos of the car schumacher mi4cx
web racing-cars
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Old 10-21-2010, 06:54 PM   #2275
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am I reading the price of CX correctly? $565.00
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Old 10-22-2010, 05:38 AM   #2276
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am I reading the price of CX correctly? $565.00
No, the likely price at the US dealers will almost certainly be less. Its not as simple to take the UK list price and convert to $$

What's people's thought's on the car?
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Old 10-22-2010, 09:13 AM   #2277
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For me all the flaws have been sorted.
The driveshaft blades have gone and been replaced with a better design. I only ever broke one driveshaft on its first lap which i think had a manufacture flaw anyway but i'm happy to see sprung steel and should be much tougher.

And it's been put on a diet. Didn't struggle too much to get it to weight but even lighter will make it easier to move weight around for balance.

Bulkheads being black should make it much faster.
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Old 10-22-2010, 09:57 AM   #2278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CA View Post
No, the likely price at the US dealers will almost certainly be less. Its not as simple to take the UK list price and convert to $$

What's people's thought's on the car?
Looks fast! Driveshaft design and spool look much improved so should see the end of aftermarket parts. Would have been nice to see the raised roll bars but apart from that it will be top of my Christmas list for my gift to myself!
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Old 10-22-2010, 05:51 PM   #2279
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Keep in mind that chassis roll is not a bad thing. Weight transfer is most important at the tires contact patch. I car that has a lot of chassis roll has more gradual weight transfer and the duration of the pressure on the tires contact patch is longer. This makes for smoother handling and consistent grip.

A stiff car that rolls very little has sudden, violent weight transfer to the tires. Pressure on the out side front tire spikes on turn in with a sudden increase in grip and your car traction rolls.

On high grip carpet you have to have enough roll for your car to be smooth without excessive chassis contact with the carpet. Preventing traction roll is done by altering roll center, camber gain and static camber. Ca'ing tires sidewalls is a last resort that can stop traction rolling but will usually result in slower lap times than a properly set up car with no CA.

FYI I was the old manager at Schu USA before Shawn. I have been racing for about 25 years and worked with Schu UK to develop every Schu sedan from the Mission to the Mi3.
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Old 10-22-2010, 06:15 PM   #2280
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and you have been missed.
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