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Old 07-29-2010, 07:05 PM   #2071
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That was un-called for.

-Mike
would your rather have the truth or some smoke blown up your a.....

you gave your opinion that the car has a lack of steering and is unpredictable, I gave some reasons why.

I am truly sorry If I hurt your feeling or angered you. I am a very blunt person at times and just let the truth or my opinion of the truth fly.

when you handed me your car it was mess. there is no doubt that you were/are having the issues you stated now and before. I am sure that the changes I gave you made the car better, now tweak those to your driving style, smooth is the key, smooth on the steering, smooth on and off the throttle.
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Old 07-29-2010, 09:43 PM   #2072
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Moving on....

I did some more wrenching on my car tonight, installing the aluminum blocks in the rear. I've found that in fact all 4 inner hinge pins were bent, one just barely (so I'm still using it, because I ran out of spares).

Has anyone found either the titanium or steel to be stronger than the other? The titanium aren't hollowed / tapped in the end, which seems like it could make them stronger at the point where mine seem to bend. But while titanium is stronger than steel by weight, I thought steel is still stronger when you're talking about the same part dimensions.

1/8" hardened tool steel rod is pretty cheap. Has anyone tried just making their own hinge pins? It seems like you could just cut it to length with a dremel, then chuck it into a drill and spin it with some fine-grit sandpaper or metal polish or something. Maybe I'll give it a shot.

-Mike
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Old 07-30-2010, 09:25 AM   #2073
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1/8" hardened tool steel rod is pretty cheap. Has anyone tried just making their own hinge pins? It seems like you could just cut it to length with a dremel, then chuck it into a drill and spin it with some fine-grit sandpaper or metal polish or something. Maybe I'll give it a shot.

-Mike
I did that with my TC3 when it first came out. worked perfect.

Also, Titanium will flex and come back to it's original shape(within limits) where as steel will hold the bend.
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Old 07-30-2010, 01:23 PM   #2074
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Steel pins are stronger.
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Old 07-30-2010, 05:16 PM   #2075
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Steel pins are stronger.
Go with steel
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Old 08-02-2010, 12:30 PM   #2076
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I'm interested in to buy mi4lp but I was driving xray for last 2 years so I'm looking for similar reliability for that I need tir spool,steel driveshafts,2.5mm chassis and top deck is that right?
Also how far do you think is the release of the new car?
Thanx in advance
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Old 08-02-2010, 01:33 PM   #2077
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I'm interested in to buy mi4lp but I was driving xray for last 2 years so I'm looking for similar reliability for that I need tir spool,steel driveshafts,2.5mm chassis and top deck is that right?
Also how far do you think is the release of the new car?
Thanx in advance
There is nothing wrong with the schui spool, their driveshafts are another story.
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Old 08-02-2010, 01:39 PM   #2078
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Originally Posted by yokemad View Post
I'm interested in to buy mi4lp but I was driving xray for last 2 years so I'm looking for similar reliability for that I need tir spool,steel driveshafts,2.5mm chassis and top deck is that right?
Also how far do you think is the release of the new car?
Thanx in advance
Well, I've got TiR spool and driveshafts only on one car, but other one with std parts is going well too. Oh and TiR doesn't exist anymore - it was bought by someone else and is called Litemodz now - I belive new CVS driveshafts will be improvement.

To 2.5mm chassis and top deck - I haven't used 2.5mm deck so far however I've got it. 2.5mm is on my car but it mostly depends on traction.

To new car release - hard to say.
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Old 08-02-2010, 03:30 PM   #2079
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thanx
I used to drive mi3 still missing to work on that car ...
It was so easy in every aspect
well not sure what to do
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Old 08-02-2010, 04:12 PM   #2080
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thanx
I used to drive mi3 still missing to work on that car ...
It was so easy in every aspect
well not sure what to do
Things I've busted (or lost due to something breaking) on my car, roughly in frequency order:
- Plastic rear hinge pin blocks
- Screws for rear hinge pin blocks
- Inner hinge pins (front and rear)
- Driveshaft Blades
- Front driveshaft bone
- Rear camber link
- Steering link turnbuckle / ball cup
- Hinge pin quick klips
- Screw that go in the end of hinge pin
- Front C-Hubs (never broke, just got sloppy around the outer hinge pin)

Aside from those issues, the car has actually been pretty durable.

Speaking of driveshaft blades, are the black ones stronger than the gray ones, or just more expensive?

-Mike
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Old 08-02-2010, 05:18 PM   #2081
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The spool works great. I use xray ECS's. No chatter, plenty of steering and they don't bend.
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Old 08-02-2010, 07:09 PM   #2082
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do U use Xray C hubs also?
Thanx for the info
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Old 08-02-2010, 07:26 PM   #2083
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
Speaking of driveshaft blades, are the black ones stronger than the gray ones, or just more expensive?

-Mike
As more of a carpet racer, the tan blades seem to work the best for me.
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Old 08-02-2010, 07:47 PM   #2084
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Hands down gray blades.
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Old 08-02-2010, 08:04 PM   #2085
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Hands down gray blades.
+1. They have never broke on me. Sure stretched, holes elongated, look like crap after 10 runs...but NEVER EVER broke on me.

You guys seriously have issues with the driveshafts? Odd..... Seriously this car has been all but flawless for me. Seriously I have such confidence in the parts quality that I don't stock spares generally. ONLY when I break a part will I buy 2. Wear and tear on the kit has been so very minimal for me as well.

Not here to argue though, EVERYONE has a different experience with a kit.

On a side note, I just LOVE the Schumacher diff. Best diff I have had yet.

Now go forth and crash less!
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