MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

I will say you're not alone in this scenario. My friend has had good success with using a oneway, but that is track dependent on whether or not you can get away with that. I had good luck last weekend when I went up in rear spring, I was using whites all around, and went to blue in the rear. I was also running 6dg caster on that car, it was a 17.5 motor on a big track, so it was very planted.

Kenny L

iTrader: (16)

And you all run same setup that don't work here either

Double D Donuts

iTrader: (15)

I'm running blues up front and white in the rear. we run 10.5 and have a high speed sweeper and a fairly fast chicane along with a hair pin and 2 other fairly sharp turns. I will have to pick up some 6* caster blocks and see how they fair. thanks! also what is the difference in the arms? i have some graphites and medium flex for front and rear. are the two different ones noticeable?

The Bear

iTrader: (13)

LOL!

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

I haven't had time to test these on asphalt yet, on carpet there was a little difference, one thing to keep an eye on is depending on how you set your droop, the med flex arms will flex when you lift the chassis messing up your settings My car with the FRP chassis was running all CF arms, the car with the stiffer chassis had med arms, the cf arms are the only ones that broke lol.

mymax

iTrader: (1)

I just received my MI4LP and I will run on carpet with foam (or rubber if the rules change at my track).
A few pages back there is a set-up for carpet/foam and on the set-up sheet the chassis is 2.5mm (U3566) with 3mm top deck.
I already have the 3mm top deck and I don’t have the 2.5mm chassis but before ordering one I will like to know if I should order the 3mm chassis instead (U3567) ?
And if my local track change is rule to go with rubber tire (on carpet) which chassis do you suggest?

Kenny L

iTrader: (16)

I would stick with 2.5mm max so if you end up running rubber. If it rubber only the 2.0mm chassis and 3.0mm top deck should be fine hope this helps

mymax

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info

SRW141

iTrader: (4)

Does your car push on exit? You can take some droop out of the front. To gain some on-power steering. You can also lay your rear shocks down. It helps the car rotate thru the corner. With running at Blue Diamond. You also might want to add some ackerman. This also adds steering in high speed sweepers and the other fast areas of he track.

The Bear

iTrader: (13)

I usually think of laying shocks down as softening and adding grip. Wouldn't standing the rear shocks 'up' help the car to rotate faster and stay on the nose a little more?

SlideMasteR

I was thinking the same,

angling in the rear shocks theoretically softens the rear shocks giving more grip to the rear end of the car

and again the opposite on the front droop , more front droop (ie more upward travel) will give more on power steering, if the car is not rotating try running a little less rear tow, or slightly harder spring this will make the back end a little less planted and allow it to turn better

IMO

Double D Donuts

iTrader: (15)

either way i will try these settings out on sunday thanks a lot for the help guys. and its mostly off-power steering that im looking for. on power is good.

The Bear

iTrader: (13)

I would like to be corrected if I'm wrong on this: 'less' front droop provides more on power steering as it does not allow the front to come up as far and forces weight to stay on the nose.......... ?


Perhaps a band-aid, but if you are looking for more off power steering you could also try:

- more drag break: very nice for me
- thinner front shock oil
- less rear toe: careful she could get tricky, try like half a degree less
- shell: don't know what you are using but you could try a DNA, R9R or LTC-R and you could try mounting the wing more forward or mounting the body more forward
- little more front camber
- higher rear hinge pins: very nice


Hope it helps!

Double D Donuts

iTrader: (15)

I'm using an LTC-R but i might try a Mazdaspeed 6 to see how much different the body really affects things. (i hope not that much because this thing is a BULLET with the LTC-R!

MattW

Mike/Kenny. I'd be surprised if the base UK setup was far off - but i'll be fair, maybe if you guys race on temp car park tracks with zero traction, then maybe not. If you look at Chris's TITC setup, and his setup from the UK national last year (Mendip) then there isn't a huge amount in it - geometry is very similar, just shock differences. We went back to Mendip last weekend, and only changed springing to accommodate lower weight that we run now. Even on carpet (rubber tyre of course) geometry wise we don't change much - the odd 0.5mm here and there and that's about it. But hey, you guys know your tracks.

.....and as for Rear shocks - laying them down gives you more weight transfer (side to side) in the corner, and hence more rotation in the later part of the corner.

Double D - LTC-R has more steering.