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Old 04-04-2010, 09:35 AM   #1756
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Personally, I wouldn't bother with anything other than the plastic blocks if you're running on rubber tyres.

The alloy ones give you some adjustment for sure, but for robber tyres, the std plastic blocks are fine - and a fair chunk lighter than the alloy ones.

I'm not sure I saw any of the UK team run alloy blocks last year.

I haven't had a set of alloy ones on my car since the day I got plastic ones for my pre prod car.
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Old 04-04-2010, 10:28 AM   #1757
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I like the Alloy blocks better just the fact you can fine tune the car more. I'm not saying you go out get one but it's my personal preference to have it on my car.
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Old 04-04-2010, 10:53 AM   #1758
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I always run the alloy ones on my car just for the weight right now my lp gear up no weight weighs in at 1380 with alloy blocks and tir axles
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Old 04-04-2010, 11:33 AM   #1759
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I prefer the alloy too. More fine tuning with the spacers.
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Old 04-04-2010, 01:28 PM   #1760
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I use the alloy blocks too. The very small weight difference makes almost no difference, but the ability to change and fine tune the different settings in invaluable. Also, you can finish a race with a bent screw but not a broken block.
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Old 04-04-2010, 02:22 PM   #1761
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I'm thinking because the not everyone in the world racing on the same type of asphalt,tarmac, or whatever you call where your from, and not everyone uses the same tire on carpet, (spec tire) you may or may not need the extra adjustment, for me, i need a lot of rear toe, and the with extra washers the plastics are put in a blind and a tap of the pipe or a hit from another driver will and has snapped them. oh sure i could ream them out to relieve the stress, but that also makes them weaker. I will say, as far as i can remember I've never changed kickup or anti squat.
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Old 04-04-2010, 02:45 PM   #1762
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anyone within striking distance to Jackson NJ, on the 24th of April they are having a huge race on a worlds class track... should be some amazing racing..
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Old 04-04-2010, 03:16 PM   #1763
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Not sure if you guys realize this, but you can accomplish the only adjustments you really would need with another set of the plastic ones if necessary. They screw into the bulkheads 1mm higher in the rear. The pins are the same front to back so the rear blocks are 1mm lower.

You can achieve a lower front pin by using the rear ones in the front.
You can achieve antidive/kickup by running a rear block and a front block.
You can do the same with anti squat and pro squat.

The pins are 8mm from the bottom of the chassis stock front and rear. So far with the car we've never really had to change it other than using antidive every now and then, which you can achieve as I mentioned with the stock blocks. Always end up with flat pins at 8mm.

Possibile front pin 7-8mm along with antidive/kickup possibilities.
Possible rear pin 8-9mm along with antisquat/prosquat possibilities.
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Old 04-04-2010, 03:23 PM   #1764
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Quote:
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anyone within striking distance to Jackson NJ, on the 24th of April they are having a huge race on a worlds class track... should be some amazing racing..
I'll be there Casey.
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Old 04-05-2010, 01:27 PM   #1765
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer X View Post
I use the alloy blocks too. The very small weight difference makes almost no difference, but the ability to change and fine tune the different settings in invaluable. Also, you can finish a race with a bent screw but not a broken block.
Thanks for the help saturday. Awesome awesome.
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Old 04-05-2010, 06:44 PM   #1766
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I see your are still running schuie...
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Old 04-06-2010, 07:48 AM   #1767
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So the blocks break before the arms? I will order the blocks but am a little confused as to which arms to order for spares. The ones on the assemebled pro kit just say CF so should I order short medium flex? Or?
I see that the ones labled graphite on Amain are C/F but should I get short or long? I would think that if I am looking for some extra rear traction I could run the stiff ones in front and the flex ones in the rear.

Last edited by Dusttt; 04-06-2010 at 08:11 AM.
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Old 04-06-2010, 08:09 AM   #1768
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There was a run of blocks in the first kits of the mi4lp that were made using a different material. It has since gone back to the original material. Unless you have one of the first batch mi4lp kits you should not have any problems with the stock blocks.
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Old 04-06-2010, 08:35 AM   #1769
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So I hate to sound stupid but have no Idea which arms are even on the stock LP car. Which are best?
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Old 04-06-2010, 08:53 AM   #1770
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the short-c/f arms come with the lp.

u3549 front
u3550 rear

the short arms are way stronger because the webbing is beefed up. i would call any of the standard length arms obsolete at this point. they'll run fine, but they are brittle unless you run the medium flex versions, which have tons of flex.

stick with the above. if you're breaking them, you can go with the short-med flex versions.

u3551 front
u3552 rear
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