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Old 02-25-2010, 01:50 PM   #1651
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Jerry P, just got the text from my local Hobby Shop and my parts are in. Didn't get everything because I think some parts were not in stock. So I ordered on Saturday night got the parts on Thursday....not bad if you ask me
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Old 02-25-2010, 02:06 PM   #1652
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Jerry P, just got the text from my local Hobby Shop and my parts are in. Didn't get everything because I think some parts were not in stock. So I ordered on Saturday night got the parts on Thursday....not bad if you ask me
That's a good turn around. I hope it works out for me like that. I love the car and having setup help from Haynes always is a great perk to have.
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Old 02-25-2010, 02:31 PM   #1653
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The new system for ordering from the Schumacher head quarters sounds like a good deal. Just wait, it will come around.
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Old 02-25-2010, 06:57 PM   #1654
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So, I deflowered my Mi4 LP last night.

The Seattle RC Racers Hangar 30 is a carpet track. A good mix of tight, medium, and high-speed corners. A fair emphasis on transitional response. I wish SkyPilot had been there to give me some tips.

Practice:
Car drove really strange, kind of like when I had the diffs cranked too tight on my Pro 3. Came in, re-set the rear diff (went as loose as I could go without slipping), also tweaked the ride height, and things were a bit better. Car was WAY too fast at the end of the straight due to the turbo kicking in. Eventually I lost drive and pulled the car. Turned out the pinion became disengaged from the spur. I assumed it was because the pinion slipped, but in hindsight I think it's because the motor slipped. I also had some body dragging / tucking issues which required some more trimming.

Q1:
Broke both right rear hinge pin blocks. I don't know if my car was an early one. I honestly couldn't really tell a color difference between the blocks that came off it, and the replacements I put on. The replacements came from AMain after they were out of stock for a while, so I think they're new. If anything, they look darker. I didn't have any problems with the other blocks. I pulled out the screws from the rear pins, but left the screws in the front. I also turned off the turbo, and dialed back the throttle profile to try and get a bit more control. Tires also felt like they were starting to get better.

Q2:
I was starting to get to grips with the faster speeds, but still driving inconsistently. Got a little over halfway through the session before I lost drive again. Turned out the motor slipped, and disengaged the pinion. I went back to the pits, put the motor back in place, and cranked it down until the screw didn't want to turn any more. I don't think I had it quite that tight before. It didn't move again for the rest of the night.

B-Main:
Right rear of body kept tucking up on the tire, and the corner marshals didn't know what "BODY TUCK RIGHT REAR!!!" meant. After the 2nd such tuck, the marshal noticed the servo tape on receiver gave up, and left the reciever dragging, so the car got pulled.

Overall, a very frustrating night, but I guess that's how it goes when you're dialing in a new car.

Handling issues:
I have to say I'm a bit disappointed with the handling. That being said, I'm sure it's a setup problem, and not the kit's fault.

The biggest issue I'm having is that the car understeers with small amounts of steering, and then when I steer past a certain point, it yanks really hard. It's difficult to get a precise turn-in, or make mid-corner adjustments. This makes it hard to carry any speed and get good laptimes. Also, once the car has yanked to the side, it can be difficult to get it to come back.

The car also seems a bit slow to transition left to right. Also, looking at it compared to a lot of other cars out there, I think the setup may be on the soft side. It seems to roll a lot, and I did get a couple traction rolls, but I don't think any of those would have happened if driven properly.

I forgot to bring the toe plate for my alignment kit with me, so setting front toe was a crapshoot. I think I had the front toed in a fair amount, which contributed to the strangeness. It was definitely less difficult to drive in B-Main, so I think that was part of both problems. Toe-in gives slow transitional reponse, dull turn-in, and lots of mid-corner bite.

In retrospect, I think I may also have a droop issue. I had originally set the ride height without the battery in the car. Then I set the droop so the spring had no slack. Then at the track, I re-set the ride-height, but didn't adjust droop. I did measure the downtravel, and it seemed that the rear was around 2.5mm, and the front was <1mm. I think what happened was I preloaded the front a lot when I changed the ride-height, and accidentally took out a bunch of droop.

Too bad it'll be 2 more weeks until I get to race it again.

-Mike
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Old 02-25-2010, 09:14 PM   #1655
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So basically we are screwed if we don't want to order from Stormer. I have a feeling my mi4 and cat sx will be for sale soon. I'm sure glad I didn't pick up a second mi4lp. I guess I'll stick with kyosho for off-road but I'm not sure what will be my onroad chassis.
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RCHR.BIZ will be a stocking Schumacher dealer, with the SX,SX2, and SV along with parts for support. Call them if you need something also for your Mi4. 203-575-9757 contact Mark.
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Old 02-26-2010, 09:13 AM   #1656
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Hi All,

Here is some information we posted on our old USA webpage. It should explain further any questions that have been raised.

"Schumacher have decided to improve its competitive offering in the USA by dealing with all enquiries and shipping direct from the factory in the UK. Our Schumacher USA offices are now closed and operations from the UK are now in full swing.

Schumacher’s dealers in North America have committed to supporting the change and will be buying products directly from the UK head office. This means that the full product range of cars, parts and accessories will continue to be available through many good hobby stores.

The advantages for customers are more competitive pricing than ever before alongside excellent spares availability direct from the manufacturer.
Direct contact with the design team will also be a great benefit for team drivers to help the flow of technical information in both directions. This will ensure that the products show their full potential to help create demand in the competition car markets.

Customers without a dealer in their area may order direct through our UK website. 2 Shipping methods will be available, UPS Express and Airsure, which is a trackable post service. The UPS service will take 2 days and the much cheaper Airsure 3-5 days. Most orders are shipped within 24 hours so a fast service is assured. The web site shows stock availability and dealer pricing once registered.


For North American dealer or Team Driver enquiries, or if you have any questions please contact usa@racing-cars.com or telephone 011 44 1604 790580.

The Benefits;-Better Pricing
-Improved Stock level availability
-Direct factory communication
-Fast shipping at reasonable cost


We would like to thank the Schumacher USA staff of Shawn Palmer, Adam Bailey, and Diane Kozolowski for all the hard work they have put in over the last few years and wish them well for the future."


Click here to go to the UK website
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Old 02-26-2010, 10:35 AM   #1657
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Originally Posted by grippgoat View Post
So, I deflowered my Mi4 LP last night.

The Seattle RC Racers Hangar 30 is a carpet track. A good mix of tight, medium, and high-speed corners. A fair emphasis on transitional response. I wish SkyPilot had been there to give me some tips.

Practice:
Car drove really strange, kind of like when I had the diffs cranked too tight on my Pro 3. Came in, re-set the rear diff (went as loose as I could go without slipping), also tweaked the ride height, and things were a bit better. Car was WAY too fast at the end of the straight due to the turbo kicking in. Eventually I lost drive and pulled the car. Turned out the pinion became disengaged from the spur. I assumed it was because the pinion slipped, but in hindsight I think it's because the motor slipped. I also had some body dragging / tucking issues which required some more trimming.

Q1:
Broke both right rear hinge pin blocks. I don't know if my car was an early one. I honestly couldn't really tell a color difference between the blocks that came off it, and the replacements I put on. The replacements came from AMain after they were out of stock for a while, so I think they're new. If anything, they look darker. I didn't have any problems with the other blocks. I pulled out the screws from the rear pins, but left the screws in the front. I also turned off the turbo, and dialed back the throttle profile to try and get a bit more control. Tires also felt like they were starting to get better.

Q2:
I was starting to get to grips with the faster speeds, but still driving inconsistently. Got a little over halfway through the session before I lost drive again. Turned out the motor slipped, and disengaged the pinion. I went back to the pits, put the motor back in place, and cranked it down until the screw didn't want to turn any more. I don't think I had it quite that tight before. It didn't move again for the rest of the night.

B-Main:
Right rear of body kept tucking up on the tire, and the corner marshals didn't know what "BODY TUCK RIGHT REAR!!!" meant. After the 2nd such tuck, the marshal noticed the servo tape on receiver gave up, and left the reciever dragging, so the car got pulled.

Overall, a very frustrating night, but I guess that's how it goes when you're dialing in a new car.

Handling issues:
I have to say I'm a bit disappointed with the handling. That being said, I'm sure it's a setup problem, and not the kit's fault.

The biggest issue I'm having is that the car understeers with small amounts of steering, and then when I steer past a certain point, it yanks really hard. It's difficult to get a precise turn-in, or make mid-corner adjustments. This makes it hard to carry any speed and get good laptimes. Also, once the car has yanked to the side, it can be difficult to get it to come back.

The car also seems a bit slow to transition left to right. Also, looking at it compared to a lot of other cars out there, I think the setup may be on the soft side. It seems to roll a lot, and I did get a couple traction rolls, but I don't think any of those would have happened if driven properly.

I forgot to bring the toe plate for my alignment kit with me, so setting front toe was a crapshoot. I think I had the front toed in a fair amount, which contributed to the strangeness. It was definitely less difficult to drive in B-Main, so I think that was part of both problems. Toe-in gives slow transitional reponse, dull turn-in, and lots of mid-corner bite.

In retrospect, I think I may also have a droop issue. I had originally set the ride height without the battery in the car. Then I set the droop so the spring had no slack. Then at the track, I re-set the ride-height, but didn't adjust droop. I did measure the downtravel, and it seemed that the rear was around 2.5mm, and the front was <1mm. I think what happened was I preloaded the front a lot when I changed the ride-height, and accidentally took out a bunch of droop.

Too bad it'll be 2 more weeks until I get to race it again.

-Mike
first off, the carpet at the hanger isn't broke in yet, every time you roll it up and let it set for a couple of weeks and roll it back out it is/will be different from the last time you drove on it.
second, the tires that shall remain un-named aren't the best, and depending on which package you bought they don't all drive the same.
third, mix one and two with paragon and theres another issue.
forth, raise ride height because of the bumps in the carpet in the corners

run zero toe, ride height at 5.5 1mm droop in front, measured by holding tires down and lifting chassis, 2-3mm droop in rear. kit springs work fine, 40wt front, 30 wt rear. 2* rear toe, rear hinge pin spacers 1mm front 3mm rear, mazda 6 body.

paragon full rear, half - 2/3 front. 10 - 15 minutes soak time,

sorry can't do wednesdays.
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Old 02-27-2010, 06:16 PM   #1658
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run zero toe, ride height at 5.5 1mm droop in front, measured by holding tires down and lifting chassis, 2-3mm droop in rear. kit springs work fine, 40wt front, 30 wt rear. 2* rear toe, rear hinge pin spacers 1mm front 3mm rear, mazda 6 body.

paragon full rear, half - 2/3 front. 10 - 15 minutes soak time,

sorry can't do wednesdays.
Thanks for the tips. You mentioned a couple of those a while back, along with some others (moving spacers on the rear camber link plate and balls, narrow front hexes, maybe laying the rear shocks down, I'll have to go back and look).

I found another issue. When I replaced the broken rear pivot blocks, I put the wrong one on the front of the right rear, which messed up my toe on that side. That probably contributed to the strange handling.

Here are some more specific questions:

1) 2* toe... that's per-side, right?

2) Hinge pin spacers... You're talking about the clips that adjust wheelbase, right?

3) Shock mounting holes? I'm in the middle front and rear at the moment. Pushing the car down on the setup board, the front feels a fair bit softer than the rear.

4) What should I set the shock rebound to? I set it up for full rebound. After bleeding, two had very slightly more rebound than the other two, so I put those on the front. They all rebound quite aggressively, though.

5) Venting the shock caps? I can't remember if the stock caps are vented or not. If not, should I drill them?

6) Do you have a recommendation for camber? I ran 1.5* all around.

7) Diff tightness? When I spin one rear wheel, it spins the whole drivetrain, instead of just spinning the opposite wheel in the opposite direction. Looking at other people's cars, this seems like it's too tight. I tried loosening it up more, but then it seemed to slip.

Thanks,
-Mike
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Old 02-27-2010, 07:40 PM   #1659
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1. yes
2. yes
3. even with stiffer springs and heavier oil it will do that
4. I take those little clips for the hinge pin spacers and put 3-4mm worth on the shock shaft, push shaft up, while holding down the bladder and letting the oil bleed off, then screw on the cap. just make sure that the piston doesn't hit the bladder
5. don't drill
6. 1.5 to 2mm front, 2.5mm rear
7. depending on which brushless motor you have there isn't enough magnet force to hold the spur gear so it just spins the whole drive train.
hold the spur and the left wheel while trying to turn the right wheel, I set mine so it slips a little but you have to use force to turn it, the amount of force is just by feel as what you think is right, as long as it doesn't slip under power

hope this helps, not sure if i will make the NWIC race, but when the sun comes out, come on down south and ran at FW, theres quite a few of us with Mi4's/Mi3's now. with some poeple bailing I just bought another loaner car for people to try out.
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Old 02-27-2010, 08:41 PM   #1660
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Ritchie i stumbled on the no toe in the rear today cause i couldnt get the car free enough.I went from 1.5 per side to about none per side and picked up two tenths.
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Old 02-27-2010, 09:33 PM   #1661
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Hi Arron, thanks for the info, you see I'm spreading your shock shaft info around what track are you running at?
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Old 02-27-2010, 09:35 PM   #1662
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DIALED.Made the whole T.O.P. team sweat bullets today.
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Ritchie i stumbled on the no toe in the rear today cause i couldnt get the car free enough.I went from 1.5 per side to about none per side and picked up two tenths.
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Old 02-27-2010, 09:38 PM   #1663
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AYO is on the MOVE. Not washed up/old and married as previous reports had said. LOL
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Old 02-27-2010, 10:31 PM   #1664
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AYO is on the MOVE. Not washed up/old and married as previous reports had said. LOL
He's washed up. He's only fast when Derek isn't racing....LOL
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Old 03-01-2010, 12:09 PM   #1665
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will the MI4LP Alloy steering housing work on the MI3.5?
U3493...I do not see why not but wanted to be sure.
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