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Old 02-10-2010, 04:35 PM   #1576
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Originally Posted by Danny-b23 View Post
If the rear is just hanging on, I would also try taking some droop out of the rear.
I was thinking about that as well, the mod guys in our team are running 4 on the huddy gauge, with this new speedy it is like driving a slow mod car

Thanks again Danny

Regards
Gary
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Old 02-10-2010, 05:15 PM   #1577
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I was thinking about that as well, the mod guys in our team are running 4 on the huddy gauge, with this new speedy it is like driving a slow mod car

Thanks again Danny

Regards
Gary

What tires are you running?

How many runs do you have on them? Most tires are only good for 3-6 runs (except Take Off RP30's and RP36's, they last twice as long). They will all start to push after that.

How are you applying traction compound and what are you using?

Are you using tire warmers?

Sedan setups are kinda complicated because one adjustment may have one effect on power and the opposite off power.

Is your son's understeer happening when he lifts to enter corners or when he is rolling on the throttle? Less front droop can help an on power push. This reduces the weight transfer to the rear on power.
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Old 02-10-2010, 05:53 PM   #1578
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What tires are you running?

How many runs do you have on them? Most tires are only good for 3-6 runs (except Take Off RP30's and RP36's, they last twice as long). They will all start to push after that.

How are you applying traction compound and what are you using?

Are you using tire warmers?

Sedan setups are kinda complicated because one adjustment may have one effect on power and the opposite off power.

Is your son's understeer happening when he lifts to enter corners or when he is rolling on the throttle? Less front droop can help an on power push. This reduces the weight transfer to the rear on power.
Tires - Sorex 36R, inserts B-Med 3 runs at the start
Traction Compound - Buggy Grip 2 at night
Tires warmers - Yes 50deg C, track temp 30deg C

Under steer is mid corner to exit at full throttle more or less, it turns in ok.
Using the Tekin speedy now the car is faster at the top end, it allways had a bit of a push with the SPX but now he is having trouble keeping a tight line.

Regards
Gary
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Old 02-10-2010, 09:31 PM   #1579
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Originally Posted by GSM Storm View Post
Tires - Sorex 36R, inserts B-Med 3 runs at the start
Traction Compound - Buggy Grip 2 at night
Tires warmers - Yes 50deg C, track temp 30deg C

Under steer is mid corner to exit at full throttle more or less, it turns in ok.
Using the Tekin speedy now the car is faster at the top end, it allways had a bit of a push with the SPX but now he is having trouble keeping a tight line.

Regards
Gary
Hmm, you probably need to shed rear traction to let your spool yank the car where you point it.

Try to get the car to ride on its nose more. Run white springs front and rear. 35wt oil front at rear. 3 hole 1.2mm hole pistons front and rear. Thin sway bars front and rear. It may sound totally backwards but try leaning you rear shocks in all the way on the rear shock tower. We found that you get more rear rotation by doing this.

Also, buggy grip give a ton of steering early in the race but seems to fade later. Try Trinity Tire Tweak instead. Use the buggy grip to wipe off the tires before you run.
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Old 02-11-2010, 09:31 AM   #1580
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No...that was a black car with a couple of purple pieces on it Yep this will be #3.
Ohhhh. Alright I got yah now.

To many cars
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Old 02-11-2010, 02:13 PM   #1581
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Default Some Questions ..

With a new Mi4LP box stock with Lipo is the chassis balanced? If not, how much weight is approximately added? Was thinking that the optional battery brace might be a good way to add weight to the Lipo side if needed.

Does the optional battery brace, truely secure the battery or is tape still needed?

I've read that there has been some issues with bent drive shafts, has this been addressed with the Mi4LP?

Are there any other parts on the Mi4LP that tend to break/bend more than others?

What is everyones's impressions of the box stock kit on carpet/rubber?
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Old 02-11-2010, 02:36 PM   #1582
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Balancing the car is achieved by moving the motor in or out as needed. The motor mount is actually a clamp that tightens around the motor to secure it. If one side of the car is heaver than the other, loosen up the clamp and adjust the weight.

As for the battery brace, I have always used tape so I can't help you with that.

Hit anything hard enough and it will either break or bend. I have broken one drive shaft, but I probably helped it break.

Nothing unusual breaks...I always have spare arms and caster blocks. Early cars had a problem with the hinge pin mounts, but that was quickly corrected...I have always run the alloy ones so I didn't have any problem. You will need extra shims for changing the set up and either the P-Dub or Parma bumper...and spare 64 pitch gears (if you choose to run 64 pitch).

Other than the alloy hinge pin mounts and 64 pitch gears, my car is box stock and (IMHO) probably the best car out today...strong, very tunable and FAST. Probably the best car since the A2. Hope that helps...
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Old 02-11-2010, 02:57 PM   #1583
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The car is balanced, i mount option 1 transmision, (right hand pulley), and without weight add is perfect balanced, i have some titanium parts, screws, balls, ...and the total weight are 1340g, with AMB transponder in front of battery.
I donīt have any issue with outdrives, are one of the best, and i run with mod motors and Lipos, but the belts are not the best to run mod motors.
I broke original pivot blocks, i put all news and donīt broke anymore.
Is very easy and fast to work in it, and the shocks are very high quality.

In the track, is a car more easy to drive, with certain tendency to understeer, the rear are more planted, and very smooth transmision, all litle changes in the setup are quite noticeable, great car.

Greetings, Luis C.
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Old 02-12-2010, 10:12 AM   #1584
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I didn't race a Superior yesterday but am there almost every month, look for the big white trailer, if you need some help we'll get you going in the right direction.

Who can we go to to for anodizing if we are not black?
I am assuming you mean help with the schumacher mi4. Also if you are running the schumacher how are you doing against the otehr cars.
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Old 02-14-2010, 02:41 PM   #1585
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Selling my MI4lp and a new in box car. lots of parts in my stock. PM me for details..

-Mike Owen
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Old 02-14-2010, 07:08 PM   #1586
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Selling my MI4lp and a new in box car. lots of parts in my stock. PM me for details..

-Mike Owen
Why.....you getting out the hobby? BOR isn't that bad
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Old 02-14-2010, 07:20 PM   #1587
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Why.....you getting out the hobby? BOR isn't that bad
Ohh heck no! Just making my 4th car switch since early august. I drive 5 hours just to club race at speedworld. Im never leaving this hobby
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Old 02-15-2010, 07:20 AM   #1588
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Default Mi4LP Carpet/Rubber

Anyone running the Mi4lp on carpet/rubber box stock or close to it have any feedback? likes/dislikes? compared to other kits in the market, T3 specifically?
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Old 02-15-2010, 07:36 AM   #1589
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Anyone running the Mi4lp on carpet/rubber box stock or close to it have any feedback? likes/dislikes? compared to other kits in the market, T3 specifically?
it's good. i prefer the original mi4 chassis because we don't need to get down below 1420g and it gives us the cell cutouts for counterweight. our cars are stock, and have been fairly good all season in stock/superstock.

i like the durability, the resistance to tweak, and most of all, the originality.
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Old 02-15-2010, 07:41 AM   #1590
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Hey guys (and Goetz)

really picking up the pace with my MI4. I'm going to post my setup soon, but I've been running 17.5 Rubber at Madness (full size track) and have to say that it is the easiest to drive, fastest car I've had yet.

Love this car.


Casey




p.s. (and Goetz) because we are all a bunch of guys.... Goetz is a Maaan...
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