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Old 02-04-2010, 09:52 AM   #1486
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I ran fine with Motormouth at amain when I was "testing" I beat him in one of the heats. You have me on the pinion part though. But 17.5 is so slow no matter what pinion I'd put on it would still be suck so it doesn't matter. Hahaha so I'd complain either way

as far as the tamiya cvd's and tir spool I'm about to do that! Does the spool wear bad? Or does it seem pretty tough?
The super spools pretty darn good, ive put around 40 packs through it now, and its still as new, only thing its orange, so i got the black sharpie out : )
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Old 02-04-2010, 10:53 AM   #1487
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If the suspension blocks that come with your car are a dark black, they are the brittle ones. If they have more of a grey tone to them, they are the updated ones. The updated ones are really good you shouldn't have one break on you.

I would also add to what others have said, that you should get the Parma bumper. It requires a little trimming but is a awesome, inexpensive upgrade that will prevent lots of damage in wrecks.

I would order some suspension shims so that you can adjust the car more freely, and some axle blades. The rears don't wear at all it seems but if the asphalt you race on is high traction, the spool up front will probably make short work of the axle blades. Cheaper to replace those than a chewed up spool cup
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Originally Posted by hana166 View Post
Hello Simon I'm not sure this is entirely relevant, the advice here is good, its a fantastic car but here is my experience.

I have broken a few parts on mine. I race indoor carpet. I did have the bad pivot blocks and changed them over for alloy. These work very well and allow you to fine adjust roll centre, which you might find rather useful.

Blades on the spool are not a good idea for indoor carpet so I went with a TIR front end. Destroyed two complete sets of shafts in one day without a really bad hit. Avoid these. The rears hold up fine though, no problem there.

I've solved my reliability problems completely by using the TIR spool (no blades) and Tamiya steel driveshafts 46mm 58347. I drilled out the Schumacher hexes to accept the 2mm pin and took off 0.1mm thickness and have a perfect fit. Haven't broken or even bent a single thing since.

The car works like an absolute dream now, and is as reliable as my 009. You can tailor the stiffness with a whole range of decks, and independent rear flex adjustment, far better than pulling screws. Its just so well thought out. Easy to balance and you can keep the mass centralised. Easy to pull the diffs and spur without disassembling half the car. Lipo friendly chassis..this is a great design, I doubt you will be disappointed.
what is the web site for the tir spool and what is the part number for the tamiya cvds. thanks
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Old 02-05-2010, 06:22 AM   #1488
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO View Post
I ran fine with Motormouth at amain when I was "testing" I beat him in one of the heats. You have me on the pinion part though. But 17.5 is so slow no matter what pinion I'd put on it would still be suck so it doesn't matter. Hahaha so I'd complain either way

as far as the tamiya cvd's and tir spool I'm about to do that! Does the spool wear bad? Or does it seem pretty tough?
17.5 is fast if you have the right speedo
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Old 02-05-2010, 08:16 AM   #1489
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17.5 is fast if you have the right speedo
17.5 is the novice class.

I will take up running mod at swr in the cold any day over 17.5 indoors.

Steve- right on! Sounds like a good deal. And haha I did notice the orange/hold outdrive covers, quick fix
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Old 02-05-2010, 08:50 AM   #1490
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO View Post
17.5 is the novice class.

I will take up running mod at swr in the cold any day over 17.5 indoors.

Steve- right on! Sounds like a good deal. And haha I did notice the orange/hold outdrive covers, quick fix
Those are aluminum correct?
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Old 02-05-2010, 09:10 AM   #1491
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Originally Posted by seaball View Post
mine's the opposite. but the saver has to be strong. (of course, i've never run on anything but 2x4's or click-track)
I will have to back up Mr. Goetz... He told me to run a saver and i passed on it. Well at the NEGS race it almost cost me an amain start. I hit a car that was turned around in the sweeper and after that my steering was jacked. The plastic in the schumacher plastic servo armsarn't the best of quality.

So in other words I learned my lesson and I run a saver.

Team Associated MGT servo saver

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Old 02-05-2010, 09:19 AM   #1492
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Those are aluminum correct?
No idea.

Black shrink tube also works. Haha.
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Old 02-05-2010, 10:34 AM   #1493
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smitty2802, you might want to run 2 servo savers....
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Old 02-05-2010, 03:45 PM   #1494
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I've been debating on a mi4lp vs. T3 and am leaning toward the mi4lp but had some questions (I'll be running on carpet/rubber 13.5/17.5).

What is the size of the chassis that comes stock with a mi4lp pro version? Is it 2.0mm or 2.5mm? I can't seem to find the specs on the Schumacher site.

I've read that the 2.5mm chassis is better for high/medium grip carpet running on rubber and I've also looked at the setup sheets that the team drivers have up and it looks like they mainly use the 2.5mm chassis.

I'd hate to have to buy a 2.5mm chassis on top of the kit to get optimal performance on carpet/rubber.

Any advice, or someone had a similar concern before?
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Old 02-05-2010, 04:53 PM   #1495
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Originally Posted by ByteStream View Post
I've been debating on a mi4lp vs. T3 and am leaning toward the mi4lp but had some questions (I'll be running on carpet/rubber 13.5/17.5).

What is the size of the chassis that comes stock with a mi4lp pro version? Is it 2.0mm or 2.5mm? I can't seem to find the specs on the Schumacher site.

I've read that the 2.5mm chassis is better for high/medium grip carpet running on rubber and I've also looked at the setup sheets that the team drivers have up and it looks like they mainly use the 2.5mm chassis.

I'd hate to have to buy a 2.5mm chassis on top of the kit to get optimal performance on carpet/rubber.

Any advice, or someone had a similar concern before?
Just run the 2.0 on carpet. It will work fine
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Old 02-05-2010, 04:55 PM   #1496
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I believe it comes with the 2.0mm chassis, but that should be just fine. I run on carpet and haven't had any problems with it. Get the carpet top plate however (it's much stiffer) and you should be good. The carpet setup is dialed (see the Schumacher website or search for it here). Hope that helps...
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Old 02-05-2010, 04:56 PM   #1497
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Originally Posted by BlackedOutREVO View Post
I ran fine with Motormouth at amain when I was "testing" I beat him in one of the heats. You have me on the pinion part though. But 17.5 is so slow no matter what pinion I'd put on it would still be suck so it doesn't matter. Hahaha so I'd complain either way

as far as the tamiya cvd's and tir spool I'm about to do that! Does the spool wear bad? Or does it seem pretty tough?
Actually 17.5 isn't that slow with the new software. I still prefer 13.5 or mod though. You gotta go out to norcal just once and you see how fierce it is.
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Old 02-05-2010, 05:13 PM   #1498
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Originally Posted by ByteStream View Post
I've been debating on a mi4lp vs. T3 and am leaning toward the mi4lp but had some questions (I'll be running on carpet/rubber 13.5/17.5).

What is the size of the chassis that comes stock with a mi4lp pro version? Is it 2.0mm or 2.5mm? I can't seem to find the specs on the Schumacher site.

I've read that the 2.5mm chassis is better for high/medium grip carpet running on rubber and I've also looked at the setup sheets that the team drivers have up and it looks like they mainly use the 2.5mm chassis.

I'd hate to have to buy a 2.5mm chassis on top of the kit to get optimal performance on carpet/rubber.

Any advice, or someone had a similar concern before?
Hi,

The stock chassis on the LP is 2mm thick. I believe for high grip carpet you are going to want to change the main chassis. Granted, I have only raced this chassis 2 times so far, so my experience is limited with the car. First time I raced 17.5 on a low grip carpet track and the car was really good. Setup was basically box stock with some slight changes. Second time was 13.5 at snowbirds and I would say the traction was medium to high. I had to do some major changes to the setup and was still fighting the car. I just could not get it to rotate like I needed. Looking back at things I did I feel that a thicker chassis would have helped. Also I know there are thicker top plates that might work along with the little carbon links you can change to effect the stiffness of the car. I plan on trying those to see if they help out.

I think the LP in stock form will rock on outdoor tracks though. Can't wait for it to warm up here so I can try it out. But I'm stubborn and will continue driving it on carpet till I get it right Hopefully just a top deck change will do the trick. And if not, I'll just have a carpet chassis and a outdoor chassis...no biggie. If you do get a LP I'm sure you will like the car. It has a lot of cool features and is fun to drive.
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Old 02-05-2010, 07:01 PM   #1499
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You just won that one round becuase I wasn't on top of my game, but hay I remember winning the main by almost a lap.
Actually 17.5 isn't that slow with the new software. I still prefer 13.5 or mod though. You gotta go out to norcal just once and you see how fierce it is.
Blame it on the game all you want
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Old 02-05-2010, 07:20 PM   #1500
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You just won that one round becuase I wasn't on top of my game, but hay I remember winning the main by almost a lap.
Actually 17.5 isn't that slow with the new software. I still prefer 13.5 or mod though. You gotta go out to norcal just once and you see how fierce it is.
Haha by a lap my azz. You were right in front of me. Made to many mistakes lol. My game wasn't on in the main. Haha

I refuse to buy a 17.5. Won't happen lol
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