Correct about the arms.
The reason why we not use the screw in the topdeck is that it flexes more up front which gives more steering. Sometimes the car tweaks little more using the screw.
Manu,
Between B-C the timing is less so less power but more runtime. Between A-B is more timing more power but less runtime. 3.5 SP Motors always use between B-C when using LRP speedo, power program 3 or 4 is best.
Miccal,
Yes, just grease the pin of the drive-shaft and the blade on the outside before putting it in the diff outdrive.
CraigM,
Well this set-up is basic set-up. With D-D and 1mm spacer the car is easy to drive with medium steering and not too much responsive on the steering. At the worlds we ran C-C to get maximum steering.
For low grip track try softer springs, sometimes we also cut the topdeck to get more flex in the chassis.
3.14,
Evo 5 arm is the short arm, and it comes standard with the 416WE.
The shock-shaft with 0 rebound will not go down when you push it in. So when you built your shocks you oush the shockshaft all the way up and close the cap.
61.5mm is from the very top till the very bottom of the shockholders.
We all ran a 3.5 Motor as it was "only" 5 cells. Our motors got around 80 degrees. I know the LRP motors get little hotter but that isn't a problem when it gets 100 degree. SP motors have bigger holes in the can which makes it run cooler and have better sound!
Eirik,
Nice to hear from you! Hope all is well?
Yes, we drilled the hole in the top cap, and yes we ran 700 oil at the worlds.
Dameetz,
Two topdecks will make it I think too stiff but you can try it. In Vegas we ran a 3mm chassis with 2.5mm topdeck which was made only for this race.
Benoit,
With making your shock with 0 rebound the shockshaft always goes little bit back in, it's almost impossible to make it without going back in. Using an older bladder you might have the perfect shock with 0 rebound.
Akhor,
I quess this motor has metal bearings? Little oil is never bad!
The whole that you made in the cap, did you seal it after you bled the air out or did you tighten the cap which seals the bladder. How big of a hole also?
Here you go. Sorry for the quality, I don't have a digital camera that'll do decent macro. The cushion next to it is a Tamiya cushion. This one is Teflon, delrin pretty much the same.
The idea is that you start with a tube with inside diameter the size of your inboard dogbone and cut a segment as thick as it will fit in the outdrive slot. That will be a little ring. You cut a segment larger than half and drill the holes carefully (with a 2mm bit in a pinvice), then finally trim it as close to the holes as you like so the dogbone can clip in through the holes.
As far as practice goes, what do you think is the best way to improve the most? To run a faster motor and learn to control it, or run a slower motor and learn how to maximize corner speed? Any other tips to make practice time the most productive?
__________________
Mike J. Mc. (Roar No. 3-95872)
Team eXpress Motorsports : HobbyHaven : ORCA
Yokomo BD5
Tamiya TRF415 MRE : Tamiya TA05 : Tamiya Evo IV JM
Dameetz,
Foam racing on carpet is not as big anymore as a few years ago, so Tamiya have other priorities. But i think foam on carpet is still very cool!
B18C Turbo,
Yes, with the short arms we use 42mm in the rear and
44mm in front. It makes the car more narrow, but more traction for sure.
Jeff,
It's a hole on top of the plastic, so it has nothing to do with bleading the shock. The hole in the plastic cap is only 1mm, and it get the air out between the bladder and the top cap which helps by making the shock as little rebound as possible.
Adam,
I think the best way to improve your driving is to start with a normal motor, 10.5 or something. If you can drive all your laps within 0.2-0.3 seconds it's time to go lower turns. Ofcourse many people think with a faster motor you get better laptimes. I started a long time ago with Tamiya cup and 540 Johnson motor and I ran it for a couple of years and slowly on I went faster motors. Nowadays newcomers will switch from a stock motor to a modified motor within a few month.
CLK,
Thanks! I have been very happy with the TRF team which gave me very nice results so far. 0 Rebound gives more traction, indoor rubber carpet I use a little rebound just by experience, I never use full rebound as it feels not so grippy, and I don't run much on bumpy tracks.
Actually a harder spring gives more traction but there must be enough traction to use it. Nowadays with the over powered cars we use quiet soft spring ( 13-18pound) to get the car easier to drive. With harder spring you also heat up the tyres more fast. I can't really give you an answer about the shock oil/spring question.
Just out experience I always use 6mm downstop in front and 5 in the rear. For example when I test outdoor and I go to 5.5mm downstop in the rear, the rear gets lose in the middle of the corner, go to 4.5mm it gets too stable.
In front sometimes we play indoors on carpet with 6.5mm downstop, almost no uptravel for little more easy drive, not so much steering. Rollcenters I always use just from experience 0.5mm in the rear and flat or 0.5mm anti-dive in front.
Thank you for your compliment, i love my hobby that's why i'm so motivated to go fast and never give up.
