Donīt know the JAAD diff covers (sorry never heard of this brand) but Iīm using Team Atlas diff covers on my 415 diffs. These are working perfectly maybe you could use them on the 416 also or maybe they make them for the 416 also.
Regarding the blades I have a custom aluminium diff in my 415 with Corally blades working perfectly. I tried the Xray but these were too thick so maybe the Corally blades are working on the 416 diff also.
Thankyou Jilles. Do you mean you lube the whole end of the rear swing shafts with the blade attached before putting them into the diff halves? How exactly does that help?
Quote:
Originally Posted by JGH
Miccal,
Yes, we do run a lot of shims on the topshaft (4 or 5 0,2mm), normally little more on the right so the spurgear centers little to the left which make the belts run more in the middle of the pullies.
I just started to run outdoor and the diffs get little dirty after some runs. I have tried the sticker covers and they seem to work fine.
I use a lot of diff lube on the plates and the ball and even in the pulli holes. Btw, I found Schumacher diff lube the best lube for the diff balls.
The c-clip or blades we call them are pretty strong even when running modified. I lube them a little bit with Xenon blue grease.
Thanks niznai, I will try the "White Inkjet Labels". Can you possibly post a pic of your own cushions out of teflon and delrin?
Quote:
Originally Posted by niznai
I am sure you want Jilles's feedback, but in the meantime I will give you my solution.
After testing a few materials, I have found that Officeworks sells a vinyl type A4 thing (it's not exactly vinyl, but not paper either. It's plasticky but looks like paper, yet it stretches and doesn't tear) that is very useful for making your own diff covers. I have done it for a while and they last a fair while between rebuilds (actually the covers are only destroyed when you have to rip them off because they don't want to come off once on). The product name is "White Inkjet Labels" and the product code is Avery 936067 for a pack of 10 A4 sheets (you find them in any Officeworks in Perth). They are really really sticky, so you will need to cut a smaller circle and stick it on the inside where the protector brushes on the outdrives.
About driveshaft cushions, I flip them over to the other side to even out the wear every so often (so the side that is squashed by pushing is given a rest and the other side is used). This should double their life. I have also made my own cushions out of teflon and delrin and they're still in use.
Thanks JimmyMac, I already make sure the diff is completely clean and use ceramic balls and thrust bearing. I just found the delrin diffs on my old 415MS lasted a whole year with no wear and no blades (although, I ran 540 back then!).
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyMac
I think I have JAAD diff covers on my diff. I haven't rebuilt my diff in over a year, and they are still stuck on there pretty good. I think key is making sure the plastic pulley is very very clean and oil free. I say this because another set of diff covers came off my spare diff because I didn't clean off the pulley good enough. But anyways, my diff is sealed pretty good (tape the diff adjustment hole and foam in diff end). Plus the use of ceramic diff balls and ceramic thrust bearing has let my diff last this long, and it's still silky smooth.
But I would agree on the "blades". They do wear out the outdrives. But I would disagree on the use of delrin outdrives. The aluminum ones don't warp and keep the diff action much much better/consistant over the course of the run. I'm wondering if XRay blades will fit in worn out outdrives. Not sure if the pin size is the same, but the blades are thicker. Might fit just right in a worn out outdrive.
Anyways, would like to hear what Jilles would have to say about this...
One quick question, your base asphalt setup runs D/D suspension blocks up front with 1mm spacer, whilst at the worlds you ran C/C with 0.5mm spacer. What effect does the narrower track have and what makes you decide to run D/D or C/C
Thanks again!
EDIT: 1 other question from the base asphalt setup, what would you change for low grip tracks?
-The Evo 5 arms stated in the Setup Sheet, is that referring to the "standard" or the "short" reversible arm?
-When you say zero rebound on the shock, how do you visually check that? Is it when you push in the piston, and it doesn't rebound?
And when you said 61.5mm in length, where do i measure it from?
Thanks in advance..
By the way, may i know during the TITC2009, did you run the SP 3.5 during the finals, or did you change to a SP4.0? And may i know what was the temperature of the motor after the 5 min run? I ran the LRP 4.0 X12 and the temperature was close to 100degC on the TITC 2009 layout.
For indoor we always use 1 o-ring, the blue tamiya one with little bit of rebounds, 5mm.
For outdoors I'm not sure yet, as at the worlds we absolutely run 0 rebound and we even made a hole in the top plastic to get the air out between the top and the rubber cover. I think on a bumpy track you need to run a little rebound but I'm still not sure about this.
Hi Jilles,
Have not seen you for a while now, been increasing my family so not much time for racing!
However, I hope to race allot more this summer....
I assume you drilled the hole in the top cap to make the shocks more consistent in the high heat conditions in Thailand?
I tried this at home under normal temperatures (25deg) and the car felt softer and less responsive, more sluggish actually. Maybe heavier oil would have helped?
Thanks for taking your time on here to help us out, we all appreciate it very much!
So for the second outer most hole, on the evo arms, you'd take the arm with the very outer most hole, flip it over, and then use the outside hole on that side?
Sorry for the dumb question, I've always wondered about that one.
Also, it seems like you guys don't often run the screw from the top deck into the steering post. What's the reasoning behind this, and do you ever change it?
i think its to do with the chassis flex, i have also seen mark do this somewhere...
Here you go. Sorry for the quality, I don't have a digital camera that'll do decent macro. The cushion next to it is a Tamiya cushion. This one is Teflon, delrin pretty much the same.
The idea is that you start with a tube with inside diameter the size of your inboard dogbone and cut a segment as thick as it will fit in the outdrive slot. That will be a little ring. You cut a segment larger than half and drill the holes carefully (with a 2mm bit in a pinvice), then finally trim it as close to the holes as you like so the dogbone can clip in through the holes.
Thanks for the foam carpet set up Jilles. One thing though, do you think its better if I double the upper deck to stiffen the chassis up? Coz I dont have 2,5mm lower chassis.
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If I ain't drivin' I ll be flyin'
hey jilles I have a question about the rebound, when you pull the shock shaft down, is it better if the shaft gets up a litttle bit by itself or not (a kind of negative rebound?)
from the base asphalt setup, what would you change for low grip tracks?
so not much time for racing!
