2. In the rear diff the diff balls are partially exposed, and running outdoors on asphalt the diff attracts a lot of dirt and hence requires frequent rebuilds. I currently use a small sheet of clear vinyl as a diff cover, but since it only sticks to the outside of the diff pulley they don't last long and more often than not come off.
3. Obviously parts wear out as time goes by, but I have to constantly replace the swring shaft protectors (or C-clips) that you put on the rear swing shafts before putting then into the diff halves. For me they wear out completely after about three full race meets (I run 10.5),
Sorry for the long questions! Thanks.
I am sure you want Jilles's feedback, but in the meantime I will give you my solution.
After testing a few materials, I have found that Officeworks sells a vinyl type A4 thing (it's not exactly vinyl, but not paper either. It's plasticky but looks like paper, yet it stretches and doesn't tear) that is very useful for making your own diff covers. I have done it for a while and they last a fair while between rebuilds (actually the covers are only destroyed when you have to rip them off because they don't want to come off once on). The product name is "White Inkjet Labels" and the product code is Avery 936067 for a pack of 10 A4 sheets (you find them in any Officeworks in Perth). They are really really sticky, so you will need to cut a smaller circle and stick it on the inside where the protector brushes on the outdrives.
About driveshaft cushions, I flip them over to the other side to even out the wear every so often (so the side that is squashed by pushing is given a rest and the other side is used). This should double their life. I have also made my own cushions out of teflon and delrin and they're still in use.
I think I have JAAD diff covers on my diff. I haven't rebuilt my diff in over a year, and they are still stuck on there pretty good. I think key is making sure the plastic pulley is very very clean and oil free. I say this because another set of diff covers came off my spare diff because I didn't clean off the pulley good enough. But anyways, my diff is sealed pretty good (tape the diff adjustment hole and foam in diff end). Plus the use of ceramic diff balls and ceramic thrust bearing has let my diff last this long, and it's still silky smooth.
But I would agree on the "blades". They do wear out the outdrives. But I would disagree on the use of delrin outdrives. The aluminum ones don't warp and keep the diff action much much better/consistant over the course of the run. I'm wondering if XRay blades will fit in worn out outdrives. Not sure if the pin size is the same, but the blades are thicker. Might fit just right in a worn out outdrive.
Anyways, would like to hear what Jilles would have to say about this...
__________________
Mike J. Mc. (Roar No. 3-95872)
Team eXpress Motorsports : HobbyHaven : ORCA
Yokomo BD5
Tamiya TRF415 MRE : Tamiya TA05 : Tamiya Evo IV JM
Thanks for that Good to know I've been using the same stuff
Anyway, some more questions related to shocks;
How are you guys building you shocks up? Do you use the standard WE kit method, with the delrin spacer and one o-ring, or still using the double o-ring setup?
I re-built my shocks recently using the WE instructions (where the spacer is swapped round from before), and with the new blue Tamiya O-rings, and I have to say, I've been very impressed with the action, just as smooth as before with the two much-more o-rings, and no leaking...yet
Also, for outdoors, what oil would you start off with? and would you run the foam spacer or not?
My local outdoor track is quite bumpy, and being lazy, I've left the car as is with it's std indoor shock setup, of 450 oil and no foam... I'm thinking I might want to go with a lower weight oil, and the foam.. but it's not something I can really try at a club meeting, as they are run quite tightly, with usually max 4 heats..
On the diff covers issue... I'm with JimmyMac, the JAAD covers are far and away the best ones out there, I've used the same set for quite some time now (had no need to rebuild the diff for about 5months!), never had one fall off
Cheers
Ed
__________________
Tamiya TRF416
| THard.co.uk - The TRF416 resource site | Horizon Hobby UK | Spektrum | RCBearings.co.uk | RACER |
Wow, already in one day a whole page full with questions!
Here we go!
Manu,
I run the timing between b and c. Maybe 4.5 you can run between a and b but this is too much timing for 3.5motor.
When you use Speed Passion speedo you can run timing in the middle with 3.5 as this Speedo has a different timing then a Nosram/LRP speedo.
Vincent,
With the WE chassis the battery is more forward which makes the car smoother and easier to drive, less steering.
When you use 5 cell try to drive the battery in the back and you will feel the car rotates way to much mid corner and exiting the corner. Battery more forward will keep the rear more stable mid and exit which drives more easy.
Craig,
I will make a basic set-up for asphalt/rubber and post it after this post. 5mm ackermann is most used, sometimes 5.5 to get little more aggresive steering.
Jonest,
Singha beer please!
Tom,
We always run the shock 61.5mm, don't really know why, Maybe because Kiyo(TRF Mechanic) always makes this length. See you in Luxembourg!
Martin,
Yes, the sounds of Stanleys engine breaking down on the straight was a nice sound! I think Stan has some spares!
Miccal,
Yes, we do run a lot of shims on the topshaft (4 or 5 0,2mm), normally little more on the right so the spurgear centers little to the left which make the belts run more in the middle of the pullies.
I just started to run outdoor and the diffs get little dirty after some runs. I have tried the sticker covers and they seem to work fine.
I use a lot of diff lube on the plates and the ball and even in the pulli holes. Btw, I found Schumacher diff lube the best lube for the diff balls.
The c-clip or blades we call them are pretty strong even when running modified. I lube them a little bit with Xenon blue grease.
Hey Drew, nice to hear from you! We probably will come to Vegas. 1/8 Worlds will be difficult as I can't get a place for the race.
Mark, I think we go to Vegas so meet you there!
Ed,
For indoor we always use 1 o-ring, the blue tamiya one with little bit of rebounds, 5mm.
For outdoors I'm not sure yet, as at the worlds we absolutely run 0 rebound and we even made a hole in the top plastic to get the air out between the top and the rubber cover. I think on a bumpy track you need to run a little rebound but I'm still not sure about this.
Awesome, many thanks for the setup... I'm pretty sure you've helped to create a bit of buzz on here at the moment
One Q, on the arm shock mounts, you note 2 outside arm on the front, and 2 inside on the rear? Does this mean you were running the outermost hole on the front, and one in on the rear?
Cheers
Ed
__________________
Tamiya TRF416
| THard.co.uk - The TRF416 resource site | Horizon Hobby UK | Spektrum | RCBearings.co.uk | RACER |
So for the second outer most hole, on the evo arms, you'd take the arm with the very outer most hole, flip it over, and then use the outside hole on that side?
Sorry for the dumb question, I've always wondered about that one.
Also, it seems like you guys don't often run the screw from the top deck into the steering post. What's the reasoning behind this, and do you ever change it?
Good to know I've been using the same stuff 
cool bro see ya at IIC...Later Drew
