The main differents between the 416 and the 416WE is the chassis and topdeck. At the LRP Marc and Viktor used the old 416 chassis and I used the WE chassis. I choose for the WE chassis as the battery is little more forward which makes the car easy to drive. We all used the old topdeck with the brace to get the rear a little stiffer for better rotation. So yes we play a lot with both chassis.
Ed,
All the TRF guys are using Much More oil.
Manu,
At the LRP we all used 3.5 SP motor with gearing of 105/23 9.3
The main differents between the 416 and the 416WE is the chassis and topdeck. At the LRP Marc and Viktor used the old 416 chassis and I used the WE chassis. I choose for the WE chassis as the battery is little more forward which makes the car easy to drive. We all used the old topdeck with the brace to get the rear a little stiffer for better rotation. So yes we play a lot with both chassis.
Ed,
All the TRF guys are using Much More oil.
Manu,
At the LRP we all used 3.5 SP motor with gearing of 105/23 9.3
...I choose for the WE chassis as the battery is little more forward which makes the car easy to drive...
Hi Jilles,
Great to see you here and congratulations on your recent results.
Can you explain further on what you mean by "easy to drive" with more weight forward? Eg - less turn-in, more mid corner or exiting steering or a combination of things?
Thanks,
Vincent
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TRF416 :: F104 Pro :: Buggy Champ
It's been on my mind for a while now, just a case of making sure I can afford to do it 'properly', ie car, extras and spares..... I may be emailing you soon
Quote:
Originally Posted by JGH
Oli,
Well for indoors we never use tyrewarmers, CS yellow or LRP carpet 2 is most used at indoor races.
For outdoors I recommend Tyre Tweak for most type of tyres and tracks, this with tyre warmer for about 20min on 60 degree.
Brilliant, thanks very much
Oli
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Oli Meggitt .:. England, UK .:. RIDE R/C Scoreboards .:. Tamiya TRF 416 WE
I've been waiting for a thread like this for almost a year, thankyou very much! We do our best to study the photos from events to get the latest on what you guys are running but we can never tell how you are setting your shocks up and if you are running spacers in the wheels
If you could post the base asphalt/rubber setup, including shock oil, rebound, foam bushing use, and any tips you have for shock setup that would be GREAT!
Also are we right in thinking some of the TRF guys were running more ackerman spacers than the usual 5mm with spool in Poland?
sjees Jilles, ik hoop dat je weet waar je aan begonnen bent, dit gaat je veel tijd kosten!
Maar wel goed voor alle Tamiya rijders natuurlijk.
Hey, volgende keer niet vergeten om met je transponder te rijden he!
En jah, blijft leuk klinken als een brandstofmotor vast loopt, ook die van Stanley...
Groetjes, Martin
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In the end, everybody wants to run a.....
Thankyou very much for starting this thread. I don't have any setup questions since I have found that car setup is something you have to work out yourself since everybody drives their cars very differently.
I do have some specific questions about the TRF416 chassis, however, that you may have some suggestions about:
1. I think most people have found that when we build the 416 we have to add quite a few shims to the direct center shaft before putting the flanged bearings on and fitting it into the bulkheads. For example I have to add four or five 4x0.2 mm shims to the center shaft. How much do you guys have to add, and do you keep it equal on each side of the shaft or do you add more to one side?
2. In the rear diff the diff balls are partially exposed, and running outdoors on asphalt the diff attracts a lot of dirt and hence requires frequent rebuilds. I currently use a small sheet of clear vinyl as a diff cover, but since it only sticks to the outside of the diff pulley they don't last long and more often than not come off. The same is true of the Tamiya diff covers: there just is not enough area for the covers to stick to and last more than a few runs. Do you have any tips on how to somehow protect the diff and keep it clean?
3. Obviously parts wear out as time goes by, but I have to constantly replace the swring shaft protectors (or C-clips) that you put on the rear swing shafts before putting then into the diff halves. For me they wear out completely after about three full race meets (I run 10.5), and although they are not an expensive part I seem to be constantly buying new ones. The other issue with this is that as soon as they wear down a bit the swing shaft starts damaging the diff halves. Do you have any tips on how to make the C-clips and diff halves last longer? It seems that the Xray C-clips last significantly longer, would trying another manufacturer's C-clips help? What would be really good is if Tamiya went back to the design of the original TRF415 and TRF415MS, where you didn't have C-clips on the rear swing shafts just a ring the clipped to the end of the diff halves. If you got the delrin diff halves for the 415 and 415MS they seemed to last for a long time.
