TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Hi Jilles,

I tried most of the settings yesterday (only thing I didn't manage to was split blocks front and rear as no local shops had a split 1XA!). Anyway, I found the cut top deck to be much less of a change than I expected, really thought it would make more of a difference! It was an improvement, for sure, but suprised that it was more of a subtle one, car had a little more rear traction, and overall subtly more grip

Also tried a few other things (still switching between long and middle camber links, can't decide which I prefer now ), and also tried shifting the weight back 0.5mm like I saw on the pics of marc's car from the ETS. That seemed to help stabilse the car a little more as well I found.

However, it was silly hot yesterday, with track temp well up in the 50°C range again... any advice on how to stop the tyres overheating? I went up to Losi 50Wt all round, and the calibrated hand test after a run suggested that it helped. I seem to remember you suggesting trying soft spring/heavy oil to help this... is that right? (was on silver/silver).

Also, is it possible you could post your settings for the Orion ESC you used at Andernach? I ran a 4.5 yesterday (fun times ), and my gearing is massively different to yours... think I'm doing something wrong here!

thanks in advance
Ed

seasons29

iTrader: (8)

Hi guys,

First time trying the HPI pink/silver spring yesterday on Tamiya shocks with TRF large retainer. Notice that I need to adjust the collar almost half way down on the shock body to obtain the ride height. Is that normal? Ride height was set at 5mm and shock lenght was 61.20mm.

Please advice and thanks in advance!

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Make sure you back off the downstops before setting your ride height.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

To be honest no...Even though the hpi's are a shorter spring, I only ever found you need to at most adjust the collars down 2 full turns to compensate.
With the hpi springs, and the large retainers for 5mm ride height, yoh should need in the region of 6.5 to 7 turns on the front collar, and 5.5 to 6 turns on the rear... That should be regardless of shock length.
Worth checking your droop and so on, something doesn't quite sound right if your winding them down that far!

HiH
Ed

seasons29

iTrader: (8)

Thank you guys, will look into that tonight.

MDRTales

iTrader: (6)

Whats a good starting FDR for 10.5 motors?

barts71m

iTrader: (34)

What motor/esc combo. I think I used anywhere from 6.5 to 7.5 with boost.

MDRTales

iTrader: (6)

tekin rs and lrp x11

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Boosted? Non boosted?
Track length?
All those are important.

regards Roy

MDRTales

iTrader: (6)

Boosted not sure exact dimensions but this pic may help.

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

Nice track
I would say start with 6.5/7 and work your way from there.
When running,temp the motor at 2 minutes.
If temp is ok and you think speed is down go with a lower FDR step by step.
If motor runs hot go higher.

regards Roy

JGH

The topdeck feels not much different I agree, but I still think it drives much easier with the cuts. In Thailand outdoors I usually run 600-700W with HPI blue springs, this works best against overheating.
My Orion speedo set-up was pretty soft as the track was not as grippy as usual. Boost 5, Turbo 10 , turbo delay 0.3sec, start boost rpm 4000, dragbrake 15%. I like the gear a little bit bigger as it drives smoother especially with low traction.

I hope you found the problem? The HPI spring is a little bit shorter then a Tamiya one, normally about 2 turns only.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Jilles,

I'll be giving the thick oil/soft spring a try next time I head to the outdoor track. Same for the speedo settings, I think I just got fully lost there! One final question, I've always aimed to get the motor to rev out on the longest straight. Where you say you like to gear a little bigger, do you look for this? or just go more for the smoothness on the infield?

Concentrating on the indoor track at RCI at the moment (Rick Wang's place), traction is similar to what I remember at RC City.. so it's great fun
I did try the cut deck there last weekend, for me it made the car quite bitey, would dig in inconsistently. Fastest laps were similar, but the average was down, so went back to the standard deck, and the car felt good again. Just need to find that thumb transplant hop-up...

Cheers
Ed

Tron

iTrader: (17)

Hello Jilles,

Thanks again for being here to answer questions on behalf of Tamiya...

I'm wondering about the front suspension mount spacers. I see in most of your setup sheets for high bite you run the front suspension blocks without any spacer under them. Kit setup is to put 0.5 under F/F and F/R with 0.5mm of antidive.

Lately I have been running 0.5mm F/F and 1.0mm F/R with split blocks to get 0.5mm anti dive and this is on high grip asphalt indoor.

Could you explain which situations you would want to run the mounts on the chassis and when you would want to run the 0.5mm under the mounts? What type of grip level and how is steering feel affected? Does this change to the front and not to the rear upset the overall balance of 417? I don't mean the use of anti-dive thogh...I personally like to run antidive on our track for stability, due to braking into some turns.

Secondly, can you explain what tuning the wheelbase will do? Say if I shorten or lengthen the front only, or rear only, or both what conditions would I want to utilize the different wheel bases?

Thanks again

Brett

TA.man

Hello Jilles,

I would like to know about life of TRF417, because I would like to change a new TRF chassis as soon.

- about new chassis, when ?

i think TRF417 is 1 year ago.

regards,