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"Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors

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Old 06-19-2011, 12:45 AM
  #1636  
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I notice that. Damper are of diff length ever the ride is the same for front Two side .. this happen for the front and rear damper .. Issit bcos of the weight distribution ?? Am using 416x exotek chassis/hobby wing 120a/ SP 11.5T/ futaba 9551 servo/ KO 407 Rx and the other side Li lipo batt with no weight added on the chassis ...
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Old 06-19-2011, 06:59 AM
  #1637  
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Jilles,

Used your setup from latest ETS round, car was awesome on it. Only thing I changed was 3mm steering spacer and kept C blocks in the front, thank you again for posting

Am trying the Ride Gt300 Body, have you used this body? I used the HD Rip Wing that came with the body and car was very very tail happy off power, switched to Protoform wing and was much better. Do you have any tips for HD Rip Wing wing?
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Old 06-19-2011, 01:03 PM
  #1638  
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Question on non boosted 17.5 racing.

In a post quite a few pages back a question was brought up about changes made for stock racing. You said you would go to stiffer springs and about it. Could you explain what the stiffer springs will do to the car? And would you also want to start with a little thicker oil? What springs should I switch to. Currently running blue and yellow Tamiya springs with 425 weight oil.

I know there is a chart but can't remember where it's at for all the spring rates of all the manufacturers. Anyone have this?

Last edited by Nick Groves; 06-19-2011 at 01:20 PM.
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Old 06-20-2011, 05:36 AM
  #1639  
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Originally Posted by RL.2002
hi jilles,

what the difference between spec r and the tamiya gear diff??
Differences are: internal gear are different, spec-r is 10/22T , Tamiya 12,20
I think the volume of Tamiya geardiff is slightly more.

Originally Posted by over gear
Jilles, question about your setup.

Why did you put o-rings in the shock when you can limit the shock length with the droop screw?

and what is the difference of running the camber link at #1 instead of #3 on the bulkhead? most setup i see use the #3 spot.

thanks
I mean the 2 orings I use inside the shock in the bottom. Camberlink #1 has more camber change, therefor more traction but less cornerspeed. Normally I use #1 for medium traction and in modified. #3 I use for high traction, big track and stock racing.

Originally Posted by Vicko
so cutting the mount, well it give u more steering? or just plant the rear end better? is it only needed for Mod??
For medium traction with the cut motormount the car feels like it has more traction and is more consistant. Looking back to the Snowbirds race, high traction carpet track my car was awesome with the standard one-piece motormount.

Originally Posted by Electro-MAX RC
Wondering if the fluid that comes with the new gear diff is useful?
Any idea what weight fluid? and does the new gear diff leak with 1000w in it?
Thanks
I'm not sure what oil Tamiya recommend for the geardiff but all teamdrivers are using oil from 700 - 2000 W

Originally Posted by stefan Köhler
Hi jilles
Can you say might. What engine modified (Turns)are you doing in ETS R6 Andernach install the race .I´ve never driven there. And wanted to buy a new engine( Turns) for the race.

Thanks Reggie
I think I will start with a 4.5T motor in Andernach

Originally Posted by CHICO1977
What Oil to run for Front Gear diff?
I have been using 300.000W and 500.000W which both work great. You can also try cleaning gum in the geardiff, disadvantage is that the gear wear more fast.

Originally Posted by JoeyE
On a 416X, what is the best gearing for a BL17.5 Duo? What spur/pinion should be the best for the 416? People just tell me to run a certian ratio for the motor but they don't know what spur to tell me for a start.

Thanks~
I'm not familiar with 17.5T but I quess most racers gear them around 3.5 - 4.0 . I know from my friends 416, he uses spurgear 87 and pinion 44 to be around 4.0 gearing.

Originally Posted by barts71m
Jilles,

Used your setup from latest ETS round, car was awesome on it. Only thing I changed was 3mm steering spacer and kept C blocks in the front, thank you again for posting

Am trying the Ride Gt300 Body, have you used this body? I used the HD Rip Wing that came with the body and car was very very tail happy off power, switched to Protoform wing and was much better. Do you have any tips for HD Rip Wing wing?
Thanks great! I recommend to use the lip wing for the Ride body. The Ride body has a lot of steering so the lip wing will give more stable rearend.

Originally Posted by Nick Groves
Question on non boosted 17.5 racing.

In a post quite a few pages back a question was brought up about changes made for stock racing. You said you would go to stiffer springs and about it. Could you explain what the stiffer springs will do to the car? And would you also want to start with a little thicker oil? What springs should I switch to. Currently running blue and yellow Tamiya springs with 425 weight oil.

I know there is a chart but can't remember where it's at for all the spring rates of all the manufacturers. Anyone have this?
With stiffer spring I recommend, HPI gold and Pink. Also shock oil around 600 should work good. I'm not sure about the spring rates.

Jilles
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Old 06-20-2011, 11:51 AM
  #1640  
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Default How do you proceed on a new track?

Hi Jilles,

could you please tell me, how do you proceed with your set up on a new track? What are your steps to find the hopefully perfect set up? I mean do you start for example with the back of the car or..? There is not much time on a weekend to test all the possiblitys on the car. And do you have a basic set up you start with?

Thanks in advance for your feedback!

Claudio
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Old 06-21-2011, 07:58 AM
  #1641  
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Hi can u pls take a picture of ur Gear Diff with the Cleaning Gum inside. Thanks
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Old 06-22-2011, 08:53 AM
  #1642  
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Originally Posted by Lion 24
Hi Jilles,

could you please tell me, how do you proceed with your set up on a new track? What are your steps to find the hopefully perfect set up? I mean do you start for example with the back of the car or..? There is not much time on a weekend to test all the possiblitys on the car. And do you have a basic set up you start with?

Thanks in advance for your feedback!

Claudio
Before I go to a race, I start with a set-up from the previous race. Most set-ups are very close, only small details. First thing I always try is tyre additives. During qualification I try small things like camberlink shims, wheelbase, different shock oil. Ofcourse I always check other racers and their set-ups to learn from this. Always check the condition of the track as it is difficult to say something works or not when the track conditions are changing all the time.

Originally Posted by CHICO1977
Hi can u pls take a picture of ur Gear Diff with the Cleaning Gum inside. Thanks
I haven't got a picture. I can advice to use small balls of gum and push it with a screwdriver anywhere it can go inside the geardiff. I normally use a little bit of shockoil with it. Hope this helps

Jilles
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Old 06-22-2011, 07:08 PM
  #1643  
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Hi Jillies,

Do you play around with shock pistons? Or do you just use the original ones that comes with the kit?
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Old 06-22-2011, 07:59 PM
  #1644  
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Do you think the gear diff would be good to run in 17.5 non boosted racing? Or would the ball diff be fine? What does the gear diff do that makes it so much better than the ball diff?
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Old 06-24-2011, 07:17 AM
  #1645  
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hi jilles~

what situation you will using front gear diff.?

thanks
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Old 06-25-2011, 11:52 AM
  #1646  
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Jilles,

When using HPI springs (I've finally got the #6543 Silvers, after them being out of stock for awhile here in the US), what spring retainers do you use? I noticed that they're a bit larger in diameter than the Tamiya springs and find that they just slide around on the Tamiya spring retainers. Or should I not worry about this?

(My apologies in advance if this has been answered...I couldn't seem to find an answer during a search.)

Thanks again.
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Old 06-25-2011, 01:19 PM
  #1647  
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Originally Posted by encore75
Jilles,

When using HPI springs (I've finally got the #6543 Silvers, after them being out of stock for awhile here in the US), what spring retainers do you use? I noticed that they're a bit larger in diameter than the Tamiya springs and find that they just slide around on the Tamiya spring retainers. Or should I not worry about this?

(My apologies in advance if this has been answered...I couldn't seem to find an answer during a search.)

Thanks again.
this is what your need, fit hpi springs perfect

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-dam...5.html?picID=2
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Old 06-25-2011, 11:47 PM
  #1648  
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Originally Posted by Smartypants
this is what your need, fit hpi springs perfect

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-dam...5.html?picID=2
I saw on the 417 thread (realized I should have looked in there too) that people have been mentioning the Roche retainers. Do those fit as well as the TRF ones? They seem to be much more economical to get.
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Old 06-26-2011, 07:21 AM
  #1649  
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Originally Posted by encore75
I saw on the 417 thread (realized I should have looked in there too) that people have been mentioning the Roche retainers. Do those fit as well as the TRF ones? They seem to be much more economical to get.
Yep run these on my TRFs with the HPI springs work perfectly

http://www.roche.hk/shopping/index.p...&product_id=94
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Old 06-27-2011, 11:39 AM
  #1650  
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Jilles,

Where do you mesure the drop ?

Under arm but where exatly. On the front on the rear of arm ?

Under the pin screw ?


thanks
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