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"Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors

"Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors

Old 05-02-2011, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by JGH
No problem! Zero rebound you can make by pushing the shock rod/piston all the way up and close the shock cap, and even better drill a small hole in the shock cap.
Next month I will be heading home and probably gonna do the ETS race in Holland. At that race I will catch up with the Redrc guys and maybe we can do something similair again with some video.

Question for all racers on this thread, what would you like to see in the video?
What kind of stuff should I explain in the video about the 417 or something about motors, speedo, batteries, radio set-up or charging?
Let me know and I will work on something.

Jilles
More info on correctly preping tyres & warming settings and times etc would be great,
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Old 05-02-2011, 09:23 AM
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I'd like to see a setup tutorial on the 417 and what things should be looked into to setup a car on various track conditions.

For instance, this past weekend I was running the Xray challenge race and finished 4th in the stock sedan A main.

My setup is attached, I don't feel it is the best way to run but it was the only way I could get the car to not traction roll. My fast lap was the fastest all weekend except for the race day when I think my tires were going "off" and others were running their 2nd set.

Anyway, a setup tutorial on things to do when traction rolling, when there is little to no grip and to improve the feel of the car overall maybe?

Jilles, also if you could comment on my setup attached for high bite asphalt from the Xray challenge race and what I could have done differently I'd appreciate it. The reason I ask is I always see 1.5-2 degrees camber but the only way I could get it to work well all weekend was with the setup attached. Tire was control tire, Sweep OG 40 premount...
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
TRF417 Setup Xray Challenge.pdf (249.5 KB, 238 views)
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Old 05-02-2011, 09:40 PM
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Thanks for all the response.
Gonna make a list of all the suggestions and gonna work on it.
In the meantime, if you want to know some things feel free to ask now as the video will take some time ofcourse and maybe we can't put all things in one video.

Originally Posted by rccartips
Hi Jilles,

When using same shock oil weight, do you completely empty the shock and add new oil or just top it off from time to time?

Have you tested the Hara rear wing (low height, but with the curved rear?) Do you like it?

Thanks in advance.
It depends, when testing I just top it, when racing I empty the shock, check all parts and fill it again. I have tested the wing, this was made specially for the Ride Legacy B4 body, for protoform body it's too much traction and car doesn't rotate as much as PF wing.

Originally Posted by shikakae123
Thanks for your reply!

Perhaps how you set up your car like what you add to the shocks example how much o' rings it's effect and tyre choice addictives like tricks to improve set up etc.

Also is shock cap the rubber oil seal?perhaps a video for this can also help.
I mean the plastic top cap, which you mount to the shocktower.

Originally Posted by Tron
Jilles, also if you could comment on my setup attached for high bite asphalt from the Xray challenge race and what I could have done differently I'd appreciate it. The reason I ask is I always see 1.5-2 degrees camber but the only way I could get it to work well all weekend was with the setup attached. Tire was control tire, Sweep OG 40 premount...
I checked your set-up and for high bite asphalt I normally run more camber, to prevent from flip. Here are some other changes you can do for high bite:
- raise camberlink front and rear like 5mm/4mm
- softer shock oil and spring, 400W and HPI blue spring ( sounds crazy but it works on high bite! )
- 0.5 front and 0.5mm hex shims rear always work best for me.
- Mazda Speed 6 is smoother to drive then LTC-R, especially with 17.5T

Jilles
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Old 05-02-2011, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Smartypants
More info on correctly preping tyres & warming settings and times etc would be great,
What he said.
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Old 05-02-2011, 10:16 PM
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Thank you for the reply!!!

Will be looking forward to the new videos.Good luck for your race and thanks for your help!
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Old 05-03-2011, 02:01 AM
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Hi Jilles, a couple questions regarding ESCs

When you started this thread you said your settings for the pearl v1 were...

Originally Posted by JGH
On the new Pearl Speedo I use 2,5,2,2.
but more recently you used these settings at TITC...

Originally Posted by JGH
ESC set-up: Power Program 2 and dragbrake 3. FDR was 7.5
What is the reason for the big difference in power program, is it simply because you've changed motor brands?
Also do you find the top end similar even though profile 5 has more timing? do you just gear up?
And finally, why did you decide to use the v1 rather than the v2? I run one too as I've heard that it is smoother, however I have some events coming up (State Titles and FEMCA race) on tracks with 50m+ straights so I'm wondering if I should get a v2 for these events.

Thanks
Craig

p.s. Will you be attending the FEMCA race in Sydney in September?
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Old 05-03-2011, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by CraigM

p.s. Will you be attending the FEMCA race in Sydney in September?
C'mon Jilles, get Marc, Viktor and Pumpy to come too
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Old 05-03-2011, 06:49 AM
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just wanted to ask if you have tips on selecting rims? like i noticed the yokomo rims have taller and thicker center ribs compared to the tamiya dish wheels... are there handling characteristics for each type?

Thanks!
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Old 05-03-2011, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by JGH

I checked your set-up and for high bite asphalt I normally run more camber, to prevent from flip. Here are some other changes you can do for high bite:
- raise camberlink front and rear like 5mm/4mm
- softer shock oil and spring, 400W and HPI blue spring ( sounds crazy but it works on high bite! )
- 0.5 front and 0.5mm hex shims rear always work best for me.
- Mazda Speed 6 is smoother to drive then LTC-R, especially with 17.5T

Jilles
I think it's great you are back on this thread regular

When you say more camber do you mean more + camber like I have in my setup sheet or more negative camber like traditional setup shows, like -1.5/-2?

With the setup I posted I had zero traction roll issues, actually the car was a tad pushy but I was able to finish very well without incident. When I had the cambers at -1.5 front and -2.0 rear I had traction roll problem even with inner links at 5mm and 4mm

Thanks again I appreciate it.
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Old 05-03-2011, 08:53 AM
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Hi jilles!!

Want to ask,how does using the split suspension mount help as compared to the normal suspension mount?Does it give more flex for traction or what?
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Old 05-03-2011, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Smartypants
More info on correctly preping tyres & warming settings and times etc would be great,
That would be very useful !

A question - how do you charge your LiPOs to get maximum battery life ? Obviously , at big events you get factory LiPOs and you don't have to care about it's life , but how with how many amps do you charge the batteries you own ?
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Old 05-03-2011, 12:00 PM
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+1 on tires and how to maintain them.
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Old 05-03-2011, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Yokomo_Ant3
C'mon Jilles, get Marc, Viktor and Pumpy to come too
Would be awesome to see them Ant, maybe they see the Asian based drivers enter like Jilles, Hara, Meen, etc, then they won't be able to resist a trip to sunny Sydney in spring
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Old 05-03-2011, 06:37 PM
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Hello Jilles,

There are so many kinds of tryes techniques.How do you know which works best?Do you test them all everytime you go to a new track?And what if you have a time limit?How do you tackle the best possible situation?

When do you cook the tryes?And when do you not?
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Old 05-04-2011, 12:38 AM
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Hi Jilles!

First of all Thanks for your time you spend on this thread!

I have a few questions:

.) Can you explain the differences in the handling of the car using the outer/inner chamber link possitions?

.) How would you say differs the setup of the car when you race it in 17,5 0-Boost spec class? Would you say that there are fix points in the setup that you would change in advance compared to your modified setups?

.) I wich range do you use shock oil (from-to) on asphalt and carpet, and if you have a good setup for a track, do you run always the same shock oil in colder and hotter condition or does the track temperatur also affect the oil choice?

.) When you talk about steering full lock, what do you mean exactly? The steering knukle touches the c hub slightly, or do you always use a bit space between? how have you trimmed the dual rate on your sanwa on full steering? 100% or 125% or 150%

Thanks in advance!

Greeitngs Rainer
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